hmm... think a 20 buck harbor freight one will be able to do it?
Cheater pipe on a pull bar with socket set up with proper extensions so the rig can rest at 90 degree angle from crank bolt. Make sure nothing is in its path in case it slips, jam pipe so it catches frame or the ground, disconnect coil wire and bump the starter.
Or just buy a good milwalkee electric impact lol and use a visa then return it because you want to save up for the cordless one llooll
Steve
Latest Poll and thread for you B20A guys:
https://www.3geez.com/forum/classic-a...ts-2013-a.html
My Build
https://www.3geez.com/forum/project-c...x-new-car.html
A Few things I did today...
Just gotta check timing and valve lash then the motor will be 90% ready to drop in. Still have some odds and ends I want to get done on the block.
And I finally got these installed in a spare set of lca's. Gonna hopefully put em on soon.
What is that head gasket?
C|
your just going to leave the bottom end alone? sure you could pick up some forged pistons for cheap
That head gasket looks like the one I put on my VW diesel.
C|
Yup did a bit of work today. Adjusted the valve lash and installed this guy. Ill prep the dizzy soon to go on. But im slowly getting closer. I have to make sure my clutch is getting sent out tomorrow from spec(after over a whole fucking month) or find out is comp clutch can make me a stage 4 because tgey are here in ga & I know people.
Its gettin closer tob the time I need to swap too. This current motor leaks & has started to burn oil for the first 5 secs on a very cold startup. :/
So while trying to remove this:
I manged to do this:
Thankfully I have 2 spare internal dizzy's from trying to make others fit so I was able to swap out the ignitor with one from f22b2(maybe its somewhere in my thread).
After being relieved I had spare parts I was like, lets get new parts and went and bought this:
Figured it would help me see if im getting spark and would look meh in my bay. I might change it to a black cap later down the road.
But now im charging my drill and ill polish the dizzy once its done then add a after pic.
Before:
After will be in next post
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
I went ahead and slapped this dizzy on. I did find out thatvi had the cam key backwards thankfully ahead of time.
The reason I got this cap.
Id love to swap motors next weekend but I got drill again.
Also I think I found a leak on the Pass floor that endas up binging nice and squishy after a rain storm.
Any ideas? This is all I saw.
Welp got a few cool things to post. Idk if many of yall kno I bought one of these during the gb, but I did haha a few pics
Then I went to find my idle problem, & I made this block off plate for the fast idle valve:
It didnt help at all, I said fuck it and went to turn the idle up to 3grand and found the idle adjustment screw backed alllllll the way out. So I fixed my surging idle problem. Hopefully ill be swapping the mmotorbefore the end of the year. Thats what im shooting for. Just got a few thungs left to order and prep then ill be good to go.
Oh, I also ordered a few things, this being one of them:
Go autoworks d series catch can plug. It seems like the plugs are the same size(I have a d16 laying around) so imma try it out. If it doesn't fit, then ill just weld a -10an fitting on the top of tge oem black box.
that damn screw will back out, i put a lil teflon tape on mine, fix that shit
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