Damn that looks good! Wheels look pretty flush but needs more low! lol
Damn that looks good! Wheels look pretty flush but needs more low! lol
Thanks ob,
Yea hopefully i'll be moar low in a couple of weeks!
I love those wheels and tyres!
Thanks rich! Im really happy with how the car looks and feels with this setup. Once i get mh coilovers in and installed and get the trans in, ill be really happy and eager to push the car to its limits!
Have you got poly bushes installed right?I found some plates for the rear camber from Demon Tweeks in UK I think we could mod them to fit out car to create extra negative camber on the back, may need to make up a little sleeve or something but I'm sure it could work!!
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motors...loy-top-mounts
Interesting. Lately ive been thinking of ways to mod the rear top hat. Im thinking cutting the bottom piece off the the rear top hat. Sliding it inwards as much as the shocks piston would allow. Then weld it back together. Use a normal poly bushing in the bottom and making a modded offset bushing out of poly or derilin. I dont know how much camber that would give us, but i think it might be worth a try.
Need to do something I have upto -4 degree's up front and only -2 degree's on back and that's only on oneside! lol! other side is -1 need to get my torch and big hammer out! lol! (sideways miss hap on track involving a hole drainage ditch in the middle of the run off area! lol!)
I had a similar issue with my green lude... had 5 degrees up front 2 degrees left rear and only .5 degree in the right rear
What if we coukd make a block or insert that would go into the rear that would push the lower control arms out?
Well the day has come! The coilovers have now arrived! Here is the quick run down on the included objects and my stats that I can best figure for anyone else who is looking at this whole setup.
First the basics...
I got the standard setup with the modified rear pistons (which i think will be on all new ones thanks to feed back from rich)
7inch long, 2.25 diameter 500lbs springs for the front
8inch long, 2.25 diameter 600bs springs in the rear
2x tender springs and spacers (did anyone get these too?)
Spring locators
Nylock nuts
Here are some basic measurements that I believe are super important...
*all measurements are taken from the lower mount surface to the top of the body
Fronts
-Length 7.5inches
-Travel 3.75inches
Rear
-length 12.625inches
-Travel 5.5inches
So far, i haven't gotten to measure the factory peices outside of my basic "measuring on the car" figures puts the front shocks only 1/2 inch shorter than factory but with. 75 inches of more travel (this one will def need a closer look with a shock off the car which i have a ton at my garage thats only 15mins away) The rears however are substantially shorter... Roughly 2 inches shorter!!! It has 5.5 inches of travel which is about 1/2 inch more than stock. This basically means that going lower than my previous setup means no need for rear top hats but more than likely need for some modded fronts. If it turns out that the fronts end up a full inch shorter than the stock ones, then I don't think we'd need any top hats... Or least bigger than 1inch.
On my koni setup (shock bodies actually 1" longer than the stock) you have 3 inches of compression. On a sport setup 1 inch of shock travel is acceptable, but hard for daily driving with bumps and such. Now you figure my red prelude is about 4inches lower than stock. Ok guys, follow me here it gets really confusing. The most I could lower my car with FACTORY top hats is 2 inches with the konis. This literally puts you at the bottom of the shock with NO compression travel. Your shocks would last about 10 mins of driving like this (if that). So to go 4 inches lower than stock, I needed AT LEAST 2 inch top hats! With just 2 inches, this still leaves me with NO travel. Ok, now lets step it up to 3inch top hats. Sweet! Now we've got 1inch of travel. But wait, the shock is hitting the old lower bushing holder (cut this baby off) Now we've got a TRUE 1"inch of travel! Getting there, now lets lower the shock down in the lower fork. This gives you about 3/4 or an inch more travel but requires you use a smaller bolt (I didn't do this) or grab a file and file down a new pass through for the bolt. Now we have 1 3/4 of inch of travel! Perfect! Now if your doing this at home, you really only need 2.5inch carriage bolts to acheive this much travel and it gives you enough room for the nuts to hold everything together. Now as far as the rears go, if you lower the rear 4 inches, you still have 1 inch of shock travel, which isn't quite enough for daily driving, but almost enough for a performance application. At this level, I wouldn't worry about trying to lower to avoid having to make extentended top hats. If you do, you will have a hard time working in there becuase it is super TIGHT up there! Btw, this is a no bump stop zone past 3inches of lowering in the rear...
Now lets change gears here... If these coilover bodies are an 1" shorter then this is the new scenerio...
First you've got 3 inches of travel (the fact that these extend more than 3 inches doesn't effect this situation), now if you lower the car 3 inches, you have 1 inch of shock travel... If you lower it 4 inches than stock you have NO shock travel... Hmmm Sounds like I'll need to make some extended top hats for this bitch, FUCK. I'm really thinking lowering it more than 4 inches though is going to start causing some clearance issues with the cv axels and the "upper" control arms... With the rears being the length shorter i think it is, gives me 3 inches of shock travel at 4 inches lower than stock!
Any questions?
Oh yea pictures...
so how does she handle?
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
unfortunately its going to be a couple of weeks before i know. right now i have the trans out and waiting to install my new trans for it. I've got to take mine apart and add the necessary pieces to this new one i got for cheap. Hopefully out of the two transmissions I'll have 1 good one! the new trans has a questionable differential. but hey for 130 bucks, what do you expect.
i'm also going to try and make front extended top hats as well as make an offset bushing setup for the rear for a smidge more camber...
nice coilovers, and love those wheels too. can't wait to get some better tires and coilovers in my foz.
installing the coilovers currently along with my new trans. here are some teaser pics!
fluxcored goodness <3
can't wait to see finished pics!
Hahaha its not flux, it looks crazy cause i had to cap off a tube with some square stock, then gind it all down... it was def not my best work, and if i made more, i would have welded all of it on the interior side. But still for less than 40bucks in materials and a fuck tone of time, it was worth it
Originally Posted by hondalude86
You need more heat.Try more voltage first and then more wire speed.
That's getting crazy low. No more speed bumps for you.
C|
ok here are some more "before" pictures before i post the "after"
This was taken at a "stance" meet a couple of weeks ago...
now for the after...
notice the hand prints? this was right after we finished it...
clean after the meet...
koni yellow fronts 500lbs springs and carriage bolt top hat mod...
GAZ fronts 500lbs springs with 2" custom top hats
koni classic ext adjustable rears with 600lbs spring
GAZ rear with 600lbs springs turned all the way down (no helper springs)
Koni setup 500f/600r
GAZ setup 500f/600r
Low prelude FTW! Looks like I need to cut another coil off of my springs! lol....... Do you have any problems with your upper control arms?
this car give mes much inspiration for the goal on mine. excellent work
By far the most gangster lude on here, imho.
Thanks guys, ive got more pics to put up tonight!
At that ride height (21.5") i was hitting the upper control arms on the body. Ive raised everything up now to 22 3/8 inch and now no hitting. I originally modded the shock body slide down in the pinch fork buy to get it up my preload was to high, and the car was still bouncy, so i slide the shock up in tge pinch fork, and lowered the perches down, and now it finally feels decent. I personalkoni think the knoi valving is superior, but for the price its hard to beat.
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