Yeah im trying to see what my options are to bring the car to someone thats within reason, driving wise to sand blast the whole car.
But yeah, I reckon taking it apart is the easy bit.. Cleaning , restoring, sourcing replacement parts and reassembly will be very time consuming though..
If you come across anything you want from USDM land, I don't mind shipping overseas.
Thanks for the offer! I very well might take you up on that offer.. some part number in honda europe show discontinued, but there still seems to be some stock in various odd parts in honda usa that i might need to get.. and any of those dealers refuse to send international..
Hope you remember how to put it all back together! lol but all kidding aside you are a brave and thorough man
thanks... i hope i remember aswell.. I think the hardest part to remember where I put all the different boxes of stuff.. I havent done much in a month now. I really must get underneath and start stripping all the stone chip protection... im guessing it will be a messy job. but once thats done its ready to be sent to the body shop for new wheel arches and a respray..
any one got any tips on removing that stuff from underneath???
Really wondering if you intend to remove the doors for the respray. I am close to painting and I want to remove the doors, but cannot find the connection (under the dash presumably) to disconnect the door wiring harness. Any thoughts?
1989 LXi Hatchback - Napster
1989 LXi Sedan - sold 😒
1988 LXi Coupe - Old Skool
1984 Nissan 300ZX A.E. - 50AEZX
2019 Subaru Forester Touring - snow mobile
2023 Chevy Bolt EUV - DD
Sorry i have no recent updates on this , its been a busy year.
Yeah the wire loom is easy disconnected. If you peal the wire grommet away from the car frame the connector is just inside the pillar. You can use a flat head screw driver to release the connector lock. If need be i can post a picture of the connector location during the week.
I got side tracked with another project.. Instead of selling the S2000, I went and bought a Civic Type R Shell in black and went about a building it for a track day.
video of me racing it on track: Camera car is a civic with integra type r engine, my car is the one with the white number plate.
More pics here: @ Stezie's Black EK9 Pictures - EK9.org JDM EK9 Honda Civic Type R Forum
Last edited by stezie; 06-30-2013 at 03:37 PM.
So update on the accord. Car is basically a bare shell now.. so started into the rust.. i didnt realise how thick the wheel arch protection was on and its gonna take a very very long time to get it all off and resprayed..
Last edited by stezie; 06-30-2013 at 03:38 PM.
I'm always happy to see updates to this thread. Keep up the good work!
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
So I got the accord completly stripped. All thats left is metal! so I took the car down off the axle stands for the first time in a year and placed it on a trolley. i didnt even use a jack as the car was that light i could lift it myself. i then took the car outside and gave it a power washing inside and out to get rid of crud
Wow! You inspire me - too bad mine is a daily driver. I would love to do this!
i just hope its worth all the effort! ill need to buy another grinder and a couple more wire knot wheels by the end of the week..
does any one have an easier method to remove this junk from underneath?
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
I have considered sand blasting , but i dont know if that will even lift this stuff . It must be a european thing but there is two layers of protection underneath. it looks like the car was coated with white seam sealer, then painted then and layer of rubberised tar type coating is on top of that again. The grinder bogs down and nearly stops if i put the wire knot wheel flat on the stuff. I have to attack the stuff with the wheel on its edge.
The protection actually held up very well over time, its just the bit that were missed at the factory that are rusty and letting the rest of the car down. put it like this, in the rear arch wells, i can tear sheets of the stuff off and there is barely any metal left behind. The metal rusted through from the rear, inside out. Its strange.
I would try heating it with a heat gun and scraping it off with a stiff putty knife or scraper. If you hit it with a blow torch, it might just catch fire and you won't have to do anything more.
...anything more than rebuild your garage that burns down.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Wow this is a fantastic project! This car will be very special to you for a long time once its finished.
Just read through this... It was my intention to do this to my poolude but way too much rust.
I am impressed you are this committed. Well done. I may do this with my BA1 in the future.
Zaahir
This project reminds alot of my project too, i got also B20A2 Ca5 Euro version. I never did go it so trought as you have, nice job! Thought my one had hell of welding, like 2 months in row just welding + other things, been doing it like year and half now. But i got my one back from paint and its painted with metallic/pearl white. When i get to i will post my project on 3geez.com aswell. Anyway just keep doing it!
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