Anyone have a diy on this? I have leak coming from the bottom timing belt cover and I'm pretty sure it is the crankshaft seal. Any tips or how to's would be great, thanks in advance. Btw this is for an 86 lx, carb'd.
Anyone have a diy on this? I have leak coming from the bottom timing belt cover and I'm pretty sure it is the crankshaft seal. Any tips or how to's would be great, thanks in advance. Btw this is for an 86 lx, carb'd.
use the search feature; people has written on it including brand selection.
From top of my head, I would go ahead and replace cam seal at the same time - you have to remove crank pulley which is a FPITA.
Since you are at it, it would be very convenient to replace the oil pump seals; they are cheap and with 25 years they are most likely hardened.
If you are due for a timing belt change then do all at the same time.
If it ain't broke... I fix it!
Thanks for the response, I guess what I meant is the process any different then a later model sohc? Anything weird or special? A guy that I was going to pay was like "ohh that carb'd model is a PITA!."...well, I know they all are! So he kind of made me nervous, but I am confident that I can do it. I have done many other projects, just nothing this big. I am aware of TDC and the infamous crank pully bolt, but is there anything else "special" I need to know about this specific model?
Last edited by l0l; 02-26-2012 at 06:50 AM.
Nothing too "special" to know, really. Yes, the pulley will undoubtedly add to your vocabulary as you invent new curse words while removing it...but the job is rather straightforward other than that.
Like Ecogabriel suggested, replacing other related parts at the same time is the smartest way to go. Just be sure to install the new seal straight and do not warp or damage it. I apply a thin coat of white lithium grease (or regular chassis grease will work as well) to the lip of the seal where it rides on the balancer, so that you don't install the balancer 'dry' and rip the seal. It also provides a measure of sealing assistance.
Do not use any lubricant on the portion of the seal that installs into the cover, though. You want it to have a snug, secure fit and stay in place.
Every bolt tells a story...what does your work say about you?
going to order parts and get supplies maybe this week and give a wack at it
Last edited by l0l; 02-26-2012 at 02:19 PM.
The carb model and the FI are the same thing. The crank pulley isn't that hard compared to the later models that require the special tool, those are a PITA! Like Eco and blasney, replacing the other seals is a good idea.
Originally Posted by l0l
Mines always been the oil pump seal leaking. Use some white paper to check and run it with the cover off. it will mist off the back side of the oil pump gear.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
So i don't need the special crank pully tool?
Thanks for the info. Dumb question but... where exactly is the oil pump on this model?
Not dumb at all.
Its driven off the timing belt on the front of the motor. It has a toothed pulley under the timing belt cover.
Done the crank seal 3 times before I figured it out. I think the third time I put two seals and a speedi sleeve.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
Dam lol! Your frustration is my gain i guess haha. Thanks for the help. Do you recommend I replace the oil pump itself or just the seal (along with the cam and crank seal). I want to make this a one time deal.
Buy:
Timing belt and tensioner
Cam seal
Crank seal
Oil pump seal
Valve cover gasket
Accessory belts
a carbed car makes little difference for this job.
first remove the accessory belts. this is probably the hardest part because of limited space.
Remove valve cover. then you remove the upper timing cover and loosen the cam gear bolt one quarter turn. Losen timing belt adjuster. remove the crank pulley. remove lower timing cover. Remove timing belt. Remove cam gear. Clean off old oil leaks. Remove cam and cam seals. Replace oil pump/seal if needed. Reinstall everything working backwards. Triple check your engine timing marks before starting
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
When removing the pulley, what has worked for me was to hydrolock cylinder #1. With both valves closed in that cyl, I removed the spark plugs and squirted some amount of oil inside that cylinder (I would say about 30cc). replace the skark plug and then try loosening the crank pulley bolt (it loosens counter-clockwise - like any regular bolt)
That has worked for me but I believe my neighbors were not that happy when restarting the engine; even after pulling off most of the oil with my vacuum pump I would give them a cloud of smoke for 5-10 mins...
Be patient when installing the seals; push them evenly and SLOWLY. Once they started going in they will go without a problem. It may be a good idea to stick grease in the inside side of the seal (where you see the spring) in order to prevent the spring from getting loose while pushing it in. As said, NO GREASE in the outer side of the seal, but yes grease the inner lip and the crankshaft surface.
PATIENCE is the key word here. Get the information you need for changing the timing belt properly from the manuals.
Carbed cars are a PITA but that refers to the carburettor (and things like removing the alternator). Otherwise, the engines are identical.
Last edited by ecogabriel; 02-28-2012 at 04:29 PM.
If it ain't broke... I fix it!
Last edited by l0l; 02-28-2012 at 08:16 PM.
Thanks guys for all the great tips! All very good info...I am going to go ahead and get a manual while ordering parts, just to play it safe. In the meantime, can anyone give me a TOOLS LIST for this model?
I have a lot of tools, but I am not sure as to exactly what I need to pull that dam crank pully off.
1. what size socket for the crank pully bolt?
2. do I need the "crank pully tool" ?
3. Anything else weird or out of the ordinary?
I'm going to go ahead and start gathering everything sometime this week maybe, thanks again for helping out.
17 mm socket for the crank bolt.
It usually on there pretty good. If you have compressed air and impact is the way to go. Otherwise figure on a long breaker bar cheater bar deal 1/2" drive min.
Everything else standard metric tools.
If you take off the timing belt getting the crank and the cam pulley lined up and keeping it lined up are really important. Its easy to get the belt one tooth off.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
When I changed the seal on the oil pump. I used a pry bar on the flywheel and used a breaker bar with a cheater pipe to loosen the crank bolt. The special tool in only for newer hondas.
OH, if you get a hexagonal socket for removing the crank pulley bolt you may apply more force. I dunno if it is really necessary but it won't hurt. The rest is fairly standard; you'll need to lock the engine somehow to prevent it from turning while trying to remove that bolt. And get the manuals and PRINT the instructions for how to replace the timing belt - the diagram and pay attention to the MARKS
One thing you may want to check up is the timing mark in your flywheel. If the timing mark is there (in auto cars it is accompanied with a T letter) it would make the timing belt installation much easier. Otherwise try to make some mark that indicates where the cranksaft is at TDC (the camshaft timing gear has its own marks.)
I live in Decatur. I have to fix my neighbor's car over the weekend (water pump + alternator) but let me know if you meed some help (PM is fine)
Last edited by ecogabriel; 03-01-2012 at 03:03 PM.
If it ain't broke... I fix it!
Im digging into all this now. I ordered new timing belt, tensioner, cam seal and crank seal but autozone dont carry the oil pump seal. I found one on majestic but does anyone have a rough idea how long they take to ship? everything else will be here tomorrow. I have everything off up to the damn crank pulley. Hope i can get my boss's impact to get it off. Im north of ATL in Cleveland if yall wanna come on over and give a helpin hand lol. Wish me luck!!
The oil pump seals can be bought from rockauto (they carry the beck arnley) but shipping would take a few days.
As for the crank bolt... it is a PITA. I hydrolocked cylinder #1 and used my long bar; it finally loosened. Make sure you are loosening as you would any other bolt (counter-clockwise). you may gain some extra leverage with a pipe stuck to the bar but be careful because it might break.
If it ain't broke... I fix it!
Hell yea man I could probably use some help as I have like 0 friends here haha!..let me get all the parts and think about my options from there. I could definitely pay you some cash for your time. How would I go about hydrolocking the #1 cylinder?
Thanks again for the help! So many guys on ImportAtlanta.com are fucking assholes, this forum is has been a big help so far!
The old trick is to make sure both valves are closed on #1 then feed in a bunch of rope through the spark plug hole to take up space in the combustion chamber and thereby locking up the motor.
Or, get a helper to hold a large flat bladed screwdriver or proper prybar on the flywheel through the timing inspection hole.
Or, do it the easy way with a half inch drive impact, no motor locking required. I reccomend the 18V Milwaukee cordless impact. Once you buy one it will be your new best friend for removing anything stubborn on these cars.
http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/p...n=1&category=7
Probably the easiest thing to use to get that crank (and cam) seal out of there without too much swearing and blood loss. You can also get it out of there with careful crafty use of a flat blade screw driver but no sense risking scratching your crank if you slip (necessitating even more swearing, trip to parts land for a speedi sleeve and a seal with a bigger ID to accomodate said sleeve). Best way to install the new seal is to carefully start it with light pressure making sure it is squarely situated (not going in slightly cockeyed) and then seating it fully using either the proper seal driver (http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/p...n=1&category=7 is the shit when it comes to doing stuff like this), or even a properly sized large socket or piece of pipe. Just as long as you are careful and make sure the seal goes in squarely and straight all the way in until it bottoms properly in its place.
Last edited by dieselgus; 03-01-2012 at 08:44 PM.
Yea l0l i wouldnt mind helpin out. Maybe ya wanna work on mine too lol. Ive been lookin for some friends that are mechanicly inclined lol. All mine now know nothing bout cars. I found a oil seal kit from advanced auto for 7 bucks so im ordering that in the morning. Hopeing i can get everything replaced and installed over the weekend. Im ready to get my lil 500 dollar car running right
Phew, I'm lucky that mykwikcoupe is helping me do my front main seal.
I am going to order this kit from amazon, includes everything but the oil pump seal. Seems like a steal! Lmk what you guys think...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003BK..._d_detail?pd=1
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