How Much is that l0l? I have a spare set of oil pump seals ill sell ya if you need them. Update: I have finally got the crank pulley bolt removed. I broke a impact socket in the process. I ended having to buy a lil torch and heating up the bolt a few times. Oil pumps seals, cam seal and front main are replaced. All i need to do is find TDC and put timing belt on and bolt up.
Last edited by 91lowrider; 03-02-2012 at 05:40 PM.
Question: since i had to heat up the crank pulley bolt to break it loose, do i order a new key along with a new bolt?
Not the bolt should be fine. If you heated it cherry red then I would worry about it.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
If I stop by it would not be for the money just to share what I learned when doing it. Dieselgus advice is right on about how to lock the engine - and the rest.Originally Posted by l0l
One thing that happened to me is that one of the oil pump bolts broke. It was the stud the one that broke; the stud remover in the link did the trick. They sell the whole set but only the smaller one is needed - it can be bought separately (I checked but forgot what part # is)
http://www.searsoutlet.com/6-pc-Stuc...96&mode=seeAll
It is a 6mm x 25mm stud (or 30mm, cant recall exactly); a 6mm bolt would also work.
Glad 91 got his seals done done; the crank bolt is really a bitch. Just be careful with crank TDC; the crank TDC marks are almost impossible to lose sight of. Take it easy, and you'll get it done.
Another weird thing for me was removing the oil pump screws to change the seal; I had to borrow an impact screwdriver to remove them.
Because of the things that may go wrong I would suggest get an alternative mobility in case you need to go to the store to buy something.
EDIT: I found the part # for the stud remover that fits the stud that broke in mine (it is #19260)
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis19250.html
Last edited by ecogabriel; 03-02-2012 at 08:54 PM.
If it ain't broke... I fix it!
glad to see you got it done! that kit is $115.00. How much you want for the oil pump seal!? Did you change yours?
IMPACT!!! Save yourself the time and frustration!
l0l that would be a good price for everything and then you can get the oil seals i have. I'll give them to ya for 10 bucks. Well i found TDC and got the timing belt put back on. Now does the dizzy have to be in a certain position while installing the timing belt because im on Tdc and the dizzy is all the way advanced and its running rougher than it did before i tore it apart? The car barely runs and is kinda puttering. Any ideas?
Did you align the camshaft marks parallel with the top of the cylinder head?
Besides the word TOP, the cam sprocket has two thin marks at the sides; for the valves to be at TDC for cylinder #1 (both should be closed) the marks have to align with the top of the cylinder head. If that is not perfectly aligned that may explain the distributor not being in the right position
Also, that may sound stupid but check that the ignition wires are attached to the right cylinder.
Last edited by ecogabriel; 03-04-2012 at 06:00 AM.
If it ain't broke... I fix it!
Yea my i checked my cam sprocket and the whole is up and the two marks are aligned with the head as per the manual. I even rotated the crank two full rotations and rechecked everything and everything was sitting perfect but when started was running horrible. I tried advancing the dizzy all the way and it would run a lil longer before dieing.
I rechecked the crank at TDC and now its saying like four before 18 BTDC. But it seems everytime i rotate to recheck it comes up different. Can anybody explain this to me?
You want TDC at the compression stroke. Meaning both valves closed and the piston moving up. The piston will also move up on the exhaust stroke.
The distributor rotor should line up with the #1 spark plug tower on the cap at TDC also.
Does sound like you might have a plug wire crossed. Even 2-3 teeth off the motor will run ok but have no power.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
When I bought my car years ago from my neighbor the timing belt had just been done. It had predetonation under load. So I put my timing light on it and could not even see the mark on the flywheel no matter where a turned the distributor. So right away I knew the belt was off, unlike most V8's that run a gear on the distributor that could be off a tooth, these are slotted so I knew what it was when I could not see the timing mark on the flywheel. It was off two teeth. I realigned it. Got the timing down and was all good.
Last edited by Bluntman; 03-04-2012 at 10:44 AM.
My '66' GT I built. My first Hot Rod magazine Cover "Summer 85". I've had it for 32 years, since I was 18. It's a trailer queen. 289 Hi-po, t-10 Toploader 4speed, 9 inch rearend.
One: rotate the engine COUNTER-CLOCKWISE; that is the normal way of rotation of our engines. Two: position everything as instructed but BEFORE checking by rotating tighten the belt tensioner bolt. The spring is supposed to apply the right amount of pressure to the belt but it won't hold the belt tightened while the engine is turning.
When I got my car, the belt was timed to 15 degrees BTDC; some idiot at the Honda dealership has confounded the timing marks! Engine would not rev above 4-5K... like Bluntman said...
Last edited by ecogabriel; 03-04-2012 at 10:25 AM.
If it ain't broke... I fix it!
I got it all put back together and running but i cant test drive it right now because since i changed all the seals there i guess my oil pressure is up and causing oil to flow out the filter base gasket like a river. just in the time for the engine to warm up (fans came on twice) so i could check timing i had a big puddle under the car at a fast drip.
If you replaced the oil pump seals, pressure might have gone up if one of them was allowing pressure to escape internally (I an thinking the smaller one with a string of rubber inside the diameter... hope you get what I am trying to say).
If you replaced the oil pump seals (the three of them) how did the old ones look like? I bet hardened as hell.
Regardless of the leak, is the engine running right now? At least you may be able to check that the timing is right.
If it ain't broke... I fix it!
Yea I understand which one you were talking about. Thats the gasket itself and the other two are the o rings.
I did replace all three and they were hard as could be. I was able to get it running and to get it timed. I have it set at around 15 degrees for now (seems to idle good there) until i can get to test drive it and adjust accordingly after that. But i cant do nothing now until i get the parts in the mail from Majestic, and might i add their shipping and handling prices are retarded. I bought like 9 dollars worth of product and my total came out to 23 dollars.
It is possible that there was less pressure because of that gasket leaking internally; now with more pressure the smaller leak in the filter base became a waterfall.
EDIT: here is the thead, https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73427
Last edited by ecogabriel; 03-04-2012 at 11:17 AM.
If it ain't broke... I fix it!
what kind of oil pressure should the car be running at? so i need to replace the oil sending switch also while im replaceing the gasket? Im thinking it may be a good idea to install a oil pressure switch since im going to be working down there anyway.
I got a 15psi pressure switch (autometer, 1/8" NPT) that I will attach to my T for extra safety. I have not installed it yet because I would install a pressure gauge - take a look at the other thread you post in 2geez for the parts I got.
As for precise pressure readings check the service manual.
I BELIEVE you may see 10-15 psi with a hot engine at idle, and 40-60 at about 3,000 rpm with hot engine.
If it ain't broke... I fix it!
shit! you guys are scaring me, i might just bite the bullet and have my mechanic friend do this for 250 ahahahha. ..dam.
Hell l0l just bring it on up here and we will do both cars at the same time.
if only you were closer...fuck it, I'm ordering the kit tonight and going balls to the wall one weekend this month
Oh you aint that far away lol. One these weekends you me and eco need to get together and go to the junkyard or somethin lolif only you were closer...fuck it, I'm ordering the kit tonight and going balls to the wall one weekend this month
have you ever been to Honda parts connection in Sugar Hill? ...it's like a treasure chest for hondas!!!!!
No i havent but i think i need to be going sometime soon lol
Now with that 15psi switch wouldnt your light always be on? Has anyone installed one of these already, and does your light stay on? Also what part number is that switch? I went to autozone and they couldnt tell me a good one to put in besides the factory one that is 3-9psi reading. Advanced found one that was 5.5-9psi but thats not much better.
Autzone called tech support and they gave me this web address and told me to check it out find what i want and to call them back with the part number for priceing and availablitly. http://www.wellsve.com
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