Help car won't srart
Hey I need some help,I went over town and stop at my mom's for about an hour.when I went to leave car won't start,It rolls fine but won't start.had no problem with it til now.Its getting gas because I hit the gas when trying to start and I could smell gas.I left it sit for half hour and tryed again and it still just rolls.Can anyone help with what i can check,don't really have the money to get her towed.
Well i guess i'll just have try things like main relay,ignighter and coil.
Well I changed the main relay the old one was corroded inside.Probably from the leak I had from the antenna.But now I get a code 14,that's the iac right.The problem is I can't get it out because one of the screws are chewed up.Any ideas how I can get it out short of busting it and using vise grips to get it out.
Well I'm stupid ,forgot I had the valve unplugged.But the idle still fluctuates from 1200-1400 and when I rev it up it drops down to almost 0 and stall out.Can someone help with this.I spent most of the day working on this and it frustrating as hell.
Come on guys can't someone help?
So I bled the cooling system again today,got some air bubbles out and it seems to be running better.Gonna adjust the timing tomorrow cause it seems to be hard on gas.
IAC? Is that the idle valve attached to the front of the intake manifold?
From what I have seen in jy (mine does not have that) it seemed attached with bolts. If the head is rounded up you might try (if there is room) hitting it with a hammer, or I would try slipping a slightly smaller socket. I have used this to remove a broken oil pump stud,
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19250-St.../dp/B000P0TZZG
There should be a size that fits the bolt's head. Basically, you pick the right size, hammer it to the top of the stripped bolt, and then unscrew it.
To prevent those bolt heads from being rounded up, I use six-sided sockets instead of the star-patterned ones that are common with the tool sets. I keep some in the most commonly used sizes (14mm, 19mm, 17mm) My smaller socket set is all six-sided and it is decent (stanley)
If it ain't broke... I fix it!
Thanks man but i thought it was the one on the end of the intake which are Phillips heads but I was wrong.Forgot I unplugged the eacv.
Man I went out this morning and the car started right up,shut it off and tried it again and all she did was roll no start.So took out the dizzy and tried one I had laying around,actually I have 4or5 but so are only half there.Anyway I changed that and it started up but the idle was going up and down again.I'm not sure if my problem is electrical or fuel related .Guess I could check the fuel pressure if I can get a gauge,what should the pressure be like 38-40.
Have you checked for any vacuum leaks?
Anything going on with the car prior to the trip over town?
You can't just replace parts without real testing or you will get lost in it ok so iac won't keep the car from running it just wont idle right.
I can't find any vacuum leaks,and nothing other than an idle issue before this happened.I guess it could be the main relay,I can try and re solder one since I have 3.
Does not sound like the mainfuel pump relay. A good test for that, just turn the ignition to Aux and listen for the click from the relay. Then the fuel pump will prime. If that happens, and the car does not start its not the relay.Originally Posted by import racer
My bad, that might be the air temperature sensor (cannot remember the initials).
If it ain't broke... I fix it!
IAT^^^
this sounds like it may two different issues. Next time it won't crank just pull a plug out if its wet then its ignition or poor fuel. , then You can hook the plug on the wire and hold it to ground while somebody cranks the car you should see nice blue bright spark
Its hard not to over complicate diagnosing when theres intermitent faults like this so start with a baseline like above. If it does run and won't idle then it likely isn't main relay or primary ignition parts and its going to be secondary ignition or something on the intake air control not excluding vac leak.
Hope this helps, I see guys get all tangled up in running down mystery problems so my best tip is to apply logic constants and keep the systems separated in your mind
Thanks guys,I tried to start it today several times and started every time.But like I said I rev it up and let off the gas and the revs drop down to nothing and almost stalls,and then it catches itself and goes back to about 1000 rpm.I'm gonna change the fuel pump,do you think that it could be going bad and act like this.
From what I'm reading I agree its sounds like your having an intake problem. The idle air valve could be acting up. You could try disconnecting it,and raise the idle to see if the car will run without it.
Yeah I can't get the IAT sensor out cause one of the screws head is fucked,the wires are splice there so I'll check them.So if I disconnect that and bump up the idle it will run like that?
This^^^
I assume you cleaned the throttle body butterfly area good with throttle body spray already.
You had distributor out so i assume too the timing was checked, that affects base idle speed as well.
On efi the air controls idle quality more so than the fuel delivery side.
A vacuum guage would be helpful.
Last edited by 2oodoor; 05-26-2012 at 07:07 AM.
So i borrowed a vacuum gauge today and checked and I only have 10 pounds vacuum.I bumped the dizzy ahead and now won't start again and I smell fuel.So is it my dizzy thats the problem.
Engine reacts to any single increase in air flow; e.g. the A/C idle booster just allows more air to flow in. Same for the IACV (though 86-87 and 88-89 have different systems)
I would check fuel pressure; what you may need is a banjo bolt that allows to connect a gauge (that is the way I did it) though there may be other ways to hook up a pressure gauge. As for pressure ranges, I believe they are in the 30ish range but the service manual is the source to get that. Also, lf you clamp close the return hose, fuel pressure will rise quite substantially, and your idle speed should rise if you have a idle control valve working
EDIT: as roodoo says, if you have not cleaned up the TB plate it is a good idea to REMOVE it and clean it up. In my car, touching the screw would not cause ANY change in idle speed; after removal, I found a mound of black stuff where the screw was. You most likely need a new o-ring for the screw otherwise it may become loose - I have just tried at NAPA until I found one that worked
Last edited by ecogabriel; 05-26-2012 at 10:39 AM.
If it ain't broke... I fix it!
So why won't it start after moving dizzy,i put it back where it was and still won't run..
Maybe its a matter of coensodence,
Ok so I cleaned out the TB ,ajust the dizzy alittle.Tried to start it and it sounded like it wanted to start,so i cranked it about a minute and it started.Also when i gave it some gas it didn't want to stall like it did before.The problem now is the cel is on,code 6 which is the ECT correct.I check the plug t's on and it's spliced but I soldered them.I know there is a way to test the sensor right?
Try starting it while pressing the gas just a slight bit (to let a little more air in the TB). Also take off the iacv and clean it out. As far as the extra, either bad wiring or failed sensor.
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