How are the OBX headers by the way just found some for good price
these cars sound a lot different then most other hondas on the road, I think it's mainly the older engine design plus just a bigger displacement, they also don't need to rev as high as most hondas. These engines were actually designed in the late 70's they just didn't go into production until later,
Ehh idk what you mean by "a lot". I can pick out most series motors based on my ear and the a series isn't much different, they just don't have as much rasp because of the block design and lover revs.
And with that being said, throw a can on any stock exhaust 4banger and it's gonna sound exactly the same from the outside. But I I'm being nitpicky here
OBX to me has always built cheaper less quality parts that are substandard. Dave had nothing but problems with his and he needed to modify it straight from the box. If you are buying a new parts built for your use it should work right away and not complicate things more. To buy a new part and have to shorten the downtubes right from the box is a hassle I would chose not to impose. Just get the pacesetter and be happy with the best cheap lowend part that works. The better parts are DC. Expensive and hard to find but worth the expense.
I don't see modifying a header as a big deal. I'm used to working on V8s, and you almost always have to modify them, even good ones, to make them fit right. A pair of V8 headers cost about $250 or so. For a single header for one of our motors that uses less materials and takes less time to assemble, even the $200 OBX is expensive. I can deal with having to cut and weld them. Other than out-of-the-box fitment, the OBX is the best bang for the buck.
Another question I had was does a dual muffler sound any different or is it quieter, louder what, compared to a single outlet muffler. I like the appearance of the dual better but would settle for a single outlet if it has a negative effect on power. I don't mean dual exhaust I'm talking about 1 muffler that has 2 tailpipes
It's mostly an appearance thing.
Ryan has by far the best sounding exhaust system I've heard on a honda. S&S header to cherry bomb, and turn down right after... but he's also fully built with webers![]()
there is nothing really wrong with the design of the obx, it looks like bad workmanship is the main issue, it's a copy of the S&S, considering it's stainless steel, it might be worth the effort to repair it, it's easier to modify a header, then to build one from scratch. The issue with clearance isn't a defect, it's the fact that you have four pipes running under the car instead of one. There is only so much room under there, I got mine as close to the bottom of the car as possible, and they are still low. there is no way to modify the bend, it has to be like that. I'm going to coat mine, I have an entire thread up on what I had to go through to get my header in, they are S&S but the obx will be identical. Hopefully the thread will help someone out.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74744
aughhhhhh!!! I want to get mine running now, I did the exact same thing, but I built the stainless steel packed muffler and ran the outlet of it to the side pipe outlet. I put the muffler in the same place,where the converter used to be, with the dual carbs, the cam, ignition etc, it's going to sound kick ass
the reason you can't shorten the pipe on the full tube headers, is the top two pipes just clear everything under the car, important stuff like the oil pan, if you tried to shorten the tubes, the pipes would hit everything under the car.
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So all these people who go so overboard about how low they are are really just over exaggerating, i don't plan on lowering the car like that so they would be fine i was just a little weary about them cause so many said bad things about them. Can you lower your car at all with them on there?
i'm lowering my car three inches, I'll just add a skid plate, there is simply no way for the upper two pipes to go any higher, they just clear the oil pan, the bottom two pipes are stacked under those. There are quality issues with the OBX, the first member to get one on here had posted pictures, one of the ports was hogged out way oversize and didn't match the other ports, along with other issues, I guess it would be easier to fix those then to make a stainless header from scratch. There was someone here who laser cut flanges, cut off the badly made flange and weld on a better one would be one solution. If you don't want the OBX just look for another S&S like I've got, they are still a few around.
I'm with Tim, use a skid plate. I bottom out a stock 3gee from time to time when I drive them offroad, so I should invest in some skid plates anyway.
what happens is the fiberglass inside of the muffler burns up and then it gets louder and louder, when I made this mufffler I used the stainless steel wool for muffler packing, it's good to over 1300 degrees and won't burn up or rust out, I know porter makes one like this as well as borla, you might be able to cut open your muffler and repack it, but it's easier to start from scratch,you are right about the metal reflecting the sound, the glass is supposed to absorb that but once it's gone, it just resonates, I wish I had taken pictures of my last glasspack I cut apart, there was nothing left of the packing
Last edited by lostforawhile; 03-31-2012 at 08:55 AM.
this is why the pipes cant go up any more, this is just below the split in the pipe between upper and lower sections.![]()
The other day I had an idea for converting an S&S/OBX 4-1 header into a 4-2-1 header. You take off the bottom section and use two Y collectors to join the two left pipes and the two right pipes. Then add a bend after each Y to go around the oil pan. Then run two straight pipes back to another Y right about where the original 4-1 collector was. And finally connect up to the exhaust system.
The only issue with doing it this way is that the cylinder pairing is sequential (1/2, 3/4) instead of the more conventional non-sequential (1/4, 2/3). Some people claim that sequential pairing can actually give you a broader power band, but there is a lot of conflicting information about sequential vs non-sequential pairing. I'm still trying to sort it out.
C|
2.5 is too large a diameter
Question for you, are you willing to deal with drone from your exhaust?
So earlier in this thread some people went with a magnaflow muffler; which one? I'm looking at the 10444 (chose 2" because the 2.25"s core is still 2"). I cut the flanges off my cat and put them on a long magnaflow glasspack, in place of the cat and resonator. Then deleted the stock muffler, which doesn't sound bad but makes a lot of resonance for long highway drives. I was thinking of the 10444 'cause I can get it cheap and I don't want so much res., and also I only get the sound I like on medium acceleration. I'd rather have something that sounds good all the time
Last edited by Fixedit; 05-12-2015 at 01:48 PM.
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