Im going to be installing my weber 38 in the next couple weeks. Just waiting on parts. I live in north georgia and am seeing if any of yall wanna come over and help with the install and tuneing. Free beer lol
Im going to be installing my weber 38 in the next couple weeks. Just waiting on parts. I live in north georgia and am seeing if any of yall wanna come over and help with the install and tuneing. Free beer lol
Got my adapter plate in the mail today. Weber was shipped today so now i just need to buy a FPR. Already have the old carb and all vacuum lines removed. Who wants to help?
Don't worry about the FPR, the stock fuel pump will fuel the Weber just fine.
Even though i have 4psi to the carb?Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy
you're 3 hrs away, that'd be alot of beer lol
If you have any problems I'm around ok..
Hey im up for plenty of beer lol. Roodoo its least i could do for some help, but yea i know ill need to pick ur brain.
Was anyone that installed a weber in their car able to keep their a/c going? If so what all did you have to keep hooked up, and to what?
You know what? That is the best kind of beer. Wish I lived in your area. I rebuilt, replaced, and retrofitted a number of carbs in the 80's and I kind of miss the old-school stuff.
Yea im hopeing to get this carb on easy and fast. Main reason i was wanting help plus the fact i dont know carbs.
Just rip off all the old shit and bolt on the new one. The Weber swap was the FIRST real car project that I had ever done on my car aside from oil changes. So just dive right in, it's not NEARLY as bad as you think. The hardest part is making the linkage work, but with a little thinking, you should be able to make it work. The easiest thing to to is take the throttle cable adapter off of the stock carb, and make it fit on the Weber. Then you can use the stock cable.
Seriously, the whole project is:
1. rip off the old carb
2. bolt on the new carb
3. hook up fuel and throttle cable
4. start the car
You really can't fuck it up. Just start early like Friday night or Saturday morning and you'll be going by the weekend and ready to drive to work. Don't be a lazy ass and sleep in on Saturday or you won't get it done.
Last edited by 2ndGenGuy; 04-18-2012 at 05:15 PM.
you CAN mess it up if you don't use caution putting on the adapter plates. Cleaning the surface, and then sealing the surface with the plates.
Torque down the bolts a little at at time each in a x pattern, and I use permatex HI TACK sealer that comes in a can with a brush on the gaskets surfaces. Anything else will be a headache eventually,
The Hi TACK doesn't goop up, is holds everyting in place and fills the very minor voids, AND lets you then remove it all with out sticking or tearing up gaskets.
Also use care installing the studs for the new carb onto the plate because if you put them in too far, or inadvertenly screw them in as you tighten the nuts later, you will warp the plates because the stud that goes in the most is pushing the two plates away from each other.
Use just a hint of lock tight on the countersunk bolts with the hex heads on them, those are the ones that vibrate out.
DO not drop anything down in the intake while youre working or you may have to take it off which is a bugger.
I got really lucky once and dropped a screw that holds the air cleaner on, down into the carb. I didn't notice this till months later and it was a shock because it got caught betweeen the venturi and a booster venturi and stayed there. whewwwww
Went to Ace today and bought something to fill the coolant hole under the carb. I ended up getting a 1/2" rubber tube that fits in the hole and it has a screw that fits in the middle and as you tighten it the rubber expands and fills up the hole. Im hopeing this will seal the hole good enough so it doesnt leak. The screw heads just fits under the adapter plate. Has anybody tried this method?
If you countersunk the hola little, JB weld is fine but you sand it down flush after it sets.
The last one I did I just tapped the hole out with threads and used a headless hex set screw which worked neat.
Thing is though I never hooked up the coolant lines to the intake afterwards anyway so there is no chance for water in the air but you probably would need to block it anyway in case that could be a vac leak depending on the design of the weber carb base config. .
I do recommend leaving the coolant lines connected because these Webers can be temperature sensative , especially now with the ethanol blended gas so having the intake warmed up will help atomization and keep the intake warm on really cold days.
Yea i was gonna tap threads and do the headless hex screw but noone has the 37/64 drill bit needed to widen the hole to use the 3/8 pipe tap. Not to mention thats a little more expensive. So i had to try this method. Do you not think this way will work?
Woah wait a second here!
That hole is not a coolant hole on the 2nd gen...
I assume this is the location of the hole you're trying to plug...
That is the CVCC aux intake. You definitely don't want to plug that up. The 2g doesn't have coolant that goes up into the carb. That hole is what feeds fuel to your CVCC aux combustion chambers, and while it may run fine with that plugged, I believe there may be unintended consequences if you do.
2nd Gen Advice ^^^
not my area, I was under the impression there was a hole that was round that would be tappable with threads as described.
Also, were all 2nd Gen CVCC?
Yep thats the one. I thought it was a coolant hole. Thanks for the info on that, you saved me time and money. Whew i feel alot better not having to worry about that.Woah wait a second here!
That hole is not a coolant hole on the 2nd gen...
I assume this is the location of the hole you're trying to plug...
That is the CVCC aux intake. You definitely don't want to plug that up. The 2g doesn't have coolant that goes up into the carb. That hole is what feeds fuel to your CVCC aux combustion chambers, and while it may run fine with that plugged, I believe there may be unintended consequences if you do.
How exactly do you get the stock throttle linkage to work on the Weber? What all do i have to do?
Bump. The weber will be here Monday.
Yeah, all the US models except for the SE-i were CVCC.
Well, I've never done it this way myself, but it should be pretty much just like in the 3rd gen Weber How To thread. Just undo the nut on the end of the throttle linkage, pop off the little butterfly plate that the throttle cable connects to, and put it on the Weber. I think you might have to ream it out or reshape the hole to make it it fit on the Weber linkage, but I've never looked closely enough to know exactly how that works.
I usually take off the oem linkage tab that the cable fits in then adapt it over to the weber linkage tab. I have done this a number of different ways, by drilling and bolting it in some fashion depending on what hardware I scrounge up or welding it together.
It is important though to have the geometry right, indexed corrrectly on the new carb. This is so you have a reliable cable connection that doens't need constant tweeking, and to have full motion of the cable to achieve full throttle of the carb.
I recently put the DFEV on the B20, removing the 38 DGS. I had an issue with the transmission TV cable not being able to adjust up far enough. It turned out to be the throttle cable had about 1/4inch slack at the throttle linkage. That is all it took to throw off the auto tx, having it adjusted all the way out.
Well i got the linkage installed but now i have a couple other issues to work on. First the cable bracket is too close to the carb so i have to find a way to move it back away from the carb. Second is i need another spacer to lift the carb higher. The trottle cant open all the way because it is hitting the bottom adapter plate (i.e. Not enough clearance). Does anyone have a spare spacer they could part with?
can you take a picture for us? Maybe we can figure out a way to get it working without having to add another spacer or hack up anything.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
Stock cable is to long if i bolt the bracket on the carb bolts.
This is where about it would need to be to work.
The left gear is hitting the adapter plate when opening the throttle. The gap there is how far it would need to be raised i guess. Maybe a few more gaskets?
Also i just noticed but i believe when i ordered my adapter plate kit they sent me the one for a 32/36 but i have a 38. Does this matter or do i need to get a 38 spacer and gaskets? Do they have a weber 38 adapter plate?
Last edited by 91lowrider; 04-25-2012 at 05:04 AM.
yes please do that.. the first thing that came to my mind was if the carb could be flipped around so the linkage is on the other side.
Also using the oem curved cable cam piece like weve mentioned, helps to shorten the space of the cable from the bracket without acually shortening the cable.. And it allows full travel of the throttle.
I will post a pic of my current DFEV linkage here in a bit so you can get an idea.
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