So I've read and read and read... And thought about this for a couple of weeks now.
What really got me going on this was my drive to NE about a month ago... I took the 88 accord out and had some silly pcv issues will cruising 80 in my 1st gen Teg gear sets (which puts me at near 4k @ 80mph). I do NOT have my valve cover hooked up to my air intake (which in hindsight seems like it might have been a decent idea for the drive). during the drive i noticed a faint oil smell that would eventually led to a smoky cabin whilst driving... being the worrier that I am, i pulled over to get some gas and notice that my vc was dumping oil on occasion out onto the rear mount. to further this i noticed it getting worse when i decided to pull over in some 1 gas station town to inspect my PCV valve. after removing the little guy i noticed that it was completely stopped up. so with no parts house anywhere in sight, i decided that i would try and clean it with some wd-40 from the gas station (wd40 wouldnt be my first choice btw), I got it loosened up some and drove to omaha, where Jared was waiting for with a new PCV valve!! This had me thinking about trying to reconfigure the PCV systems on these cars...
To make it worse, I have not legit PCV system on my red lude, just a vented pcv box and a vented vc...
Now i've been reading lots about the vacuum pump and the slash cut kits, and was totally leaning towards the vacuum pumps (due to the negative info on the slash kit) until i read a very well written article on a big suby forum. One of the big negative things floating around out there about the slash cut kits is that even with a vacuum gauge hooked up, high rpms where pulling no vacuum at all... But the suby forum (written by a shop owner with a 500+awhp sti) noted that if the crank case was properly vented that it would be extremely hard to get measurable vacuum out of the crank case, that in order to get measurable vacuum there would have to be an "end" to the crank case, sealed up if you will, and that the whole point of the system is to get the air moving out of the block. and that the best way he could tell that it was making a difference (other than not blowing every seal out while running a gt35r on 26psi) was that at 4500rpm coming instantly off boost, he'd pull 25" of mg on his boost gauge which is a little more than 5" more than previous do the better sealing rings, and increase "suction" on the downward intake stroke!
I want to hear what you guys think, but in the very next post, i'm going to post up my idea for both the Red Prelude, and the White accord...
oh yea, and the best part about the moroso kit is that it comes with enough parts to do 2 4cylinders motors...
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