Originally Posted by
hondaaccorddrew
Well as of now, NOTHING is hooked up to the car, thye battery is undone. I have unplugged the wiring harness on the stereo and the wire to the amp. I'll go through my history of alternators with you. My first one blew out when I started the car in June of 2009, a few months after I got it. There were no symptoms. I started the car, it went to high idle, I heard a clink, and that was it. Replaced it with an O'Reilly alternator with a two year warranty. Two years later, right after the warranty expired, the other one went out partially. It would still charge, but it wouldn't supply power to the choke heater. Turns out the choke heater shorted and toasted it. I learned that with the help of lostforawhile when I toasted my replacement alternator in 30 mins. After fixing the short, I replaced it with my most recently fried one. This one went out like the first did. Except I was accelerating. The engine reved quite high because of the change in load (or no load on the belts). Keep in mind my stereo was in STANDBY, the amp wasn't getting it's signal, so it was switched off. When in standby, the screen just shows the time. All my accesories with an overload protection turned off, (stereo, fan, gagues, AC buttons) for about 5 seconds. When it all came back on, the system acted like it'd just started up. The seat belt light was beeping, the door lights came on then off like startup, the oil light came on and went away (since the engine was already on) and the battery light remained on. I drove home without an alternator. It's nice that even these older components have an overload protection that cuts all power till it goes away. All of these have been replaced with Ultima alternators from O'Reilly. My new replacement is Autolite, I have never had experience with these, but it's also a reman with lifetime.
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