Clutch Cable Problem

[import racer]

Ok so I just changed motor and trans,did the auto to manual switch.When I was putting things back together and got to the clutch cable there is no resistance .Itried to move the clutch arm by hand and nothing there either.What could be wrong,I checked everything when it was out and it worked fine.I had the clutch and pressure plate out and checked it,same with the release bearing and everything worked fine.Looks like I'll being pulling the trans out again,It's too dam hot for all this shit.

[Legend_master]

So when you pull the clutch arm on the transmission there is no resistance?

[import racer]

No it moves about 1 and1/2 inches then that's it.

[import racer]

Do you think the release bearing got disconnected.

[Legend_master]

No it moves about 1 and1/2 inches then that's it.

I think that is good, should be stiff by hand. Have you taken the clutch cable out to see if it moves freely?

[import racer]

Yeah I checked the cable and it was moving freely.not sure what it could be,guess I'll be taken it out again.Do I have to remove the center cross member or can I leave it in,the one with the trans mount on it.

[Legend_master]

Yeah I checked the cable and it was moving freely.not sure what it could be,guess I'll be taken it out again.Do I have to remove the center cross member or can I leave it in,the one with the trans mount on it.

Not sure on that one, I usually take that out when I do my swaps. I would assume it would make your life easier to remove it, plus I think the mount is attached to the transmission.

[Dr_Snooz]

The trans comes out the bottom of the car. You'll have to remove the crossmember to get it out.

[import racer]

Well got some done today but it was 35degrees out today ,and had to remove cross member cause couldn't get one bolt out of the mount bracket.I cut a piece of it so I can get to bolt next time.I've move the arm before by hand but this is different,it move with no resistance then it binds up solid.might be something with the pressure plate but won't know til I get trans out I guess.

[import racer]

So I got trans back in and it was the same so I cranked the adjuster up almost all the way and I had clutch.This seems strange because the clutch was good so I guess the cable is stretched.I'll get a new one later this should do for now.I'll know better when its back on the road.

[import racer]

So finally got it all together and started,but it idles at 2500 which I thought was pretty high for a hot day.Then the check light came on with code 14,that's the iac right.I tried to get the screws to turn but won't budge,what a stupid place to put that not a hell of a lot of room to get at.I used a 1/4" ratchet with a bit holder but no luck,and you can't heat it so how the hell do you get it out.

[Buzo]

So finally got it all together and started,but it idles at 2500 which I thought was pretty high for a hot day.Then the check light came on with code 14,that's the iac right.I tried to get the screws to turn but won't budge,what a stupid place to put that not a hell of a lot of room to get at.I used a 1/4" ratchet with a bit holder but no luck,and you can't heat it so how the hell do you get it out.

You have too much air entering into your engine. It can be from any other opening in the intake manifold, not just the IAC valve.

A huge vacuum leak in a carbureted car would kill the engine, because the air had to pass through the throttle to be able to pull the fuel from the reservoir. But in a FI car, the air can enter anywhere in the intake manifold and the MAP sensor will tell the computer to add the required fuel through the injectors.

Just wanted to share my opinion in your high idle problem. Hope it helps!

[2oodoor]

So I got trans back in and it was the same so I cranked the adjuster up almost all the way and I had clutch.This seems strange because the clutch was good so I guess the cable is stretched.I'll get a new one later this should do for now.I'll know better when its back on the road.

that could be the support bracket for the cable, may need to bend it a little to get more adjustment

[import racer]

Well I switched the ecu to the 5-speed one and don't get a cel but still revs up and down.Do you think cleaning the eacv would help.Can I use brake cleaner for that.Which cable do you mean 2oodoor.

[AccordEpicenter]

you need to find the source of your vaccuum leak

[2oodoor]

You are switching channels back to the topic of your other thread. This thread is on your clutch cable problem correct?
If everything on your clutch fork arm and throw out bearing is cool, and your clutch cable is assembled correctly and you still barely have enough pedal..then the bracket where the cable goes thru down at the transmission, could have got bent some. This would limit the adjustment effectiveness. This would change the "length" of the cable and act like a stretched cable or even act like a shortened cable.

[import racer]

The clutch problem is fixed i'm trying to fix the revving up and down problem.I don't think there is and leaks but the motor sat for a few years.Could the problem be the fiv or the eacv or maybe the map sensor.I put it here instead of starting a new post.

[Dr_Snooz]

It could be anywhere. You have to find the vacuum leak. Spray carburetor cleaner anywhere there might be a leak. When the idle go up, you have found your leak.

[import racer]

So I went to bleed the system today and found out I had coolant spitting out the pipe that goes into the the back of the water pump.Took the one off my other motor and cleaned it up,now got to paint it before I put it on.Maybe thats my problem,snooz you sure it's a vacuum leak.

[Dr_Snooz]

So I went to bleed the system today and found out I had coolant spitting out the pipe that goes into the the back of the water pump.Took the one off my other motor and cleaned it up,now got to paint it before I put it on.Maybe thats my problem,snooz you sure it's a vacuum leak.

Not anymore. Low coolant will also cause the bouncing idle. It will probably give you an IAC code too if you don't spot the puddle first and it gets low enough.

You're going to have fun with that repair, BTW. Hope you have small hands. Most of those pipes are eaten away enough from age now that they don't seal well. Even new I couldn't believe that they didn't leak more than they did. It is a pretty haphazard design that puts a lot of faith in an o-ring and...empty space. Anyway, a best practice when putting those in is to smear them up good with RTV in addition to using a new o-ring. I'm not sure what the best RTV is for coolant, but I used the gray stuff and it seems to be holding well enough.

Someone else who knows RTV better can correct me on that.

I'm not sure how bad the leak is, but an alternative to pulling the pipe to replace the o-ring is to remove the water pump and smearing the pipe full of RTV from the inside.

Try jiggling the pipe first to see if you can fix it that way. Maybe you can avoid pulling it out.

[import racer]

Too late already have it out,what a poor design that is.yes I have small hands but that was a pita to get out,took the one off my old motor and cleaned it up.I'm going to paint it with tremclad before I put it back in.So you say I should put a bead of silicone on the tapered end before I put it in,I'm going to put some synthetic grease on the o-ring to make it go on easier.I have high heat red and blue silicone not sure which is best.

[Dr_Snooz]

When I did my rebuild, I had a leak exactly where yours is. I had installed a new o-ring, but it wasn't enough. I ended up using RTV. If there is any kind of pitting on that pipe end, then the chances of having another leak are pretty good.

You have to decide what's right for your situation. I'm just telling you what I did on mine.

[import racer]

Yeah mine was full of pin holes across from where the two heater hoses go on,but the one off the old motor is pretty good,thats why I cleaned it up and painted it.Gonna put it on tomorrow hopefully,so did you put silicone on the end taper or around the o-ring.

[import racer]

So got everything back together ,filled it up with coolant but never got any out of the bleeder when filling.Started it up and ran it for 15 minutes,fan kicked in 3or4 times and it still revs up and down after fast idle from 1100 to 2000 rpm's.I get lots of bubbles and coolant keeps coming up to top of rad,must be a lot of air in there.Took it for a drive to see if that would help,had lots of power but still revved up and down when I stop at stop sign but not as high.I guess I gotta keep bleeding the air out.anyone know a faster way to get the air out .

[2oodoor]

once the car is good and warmed up, thermostat opened up etc..
you can raise rpm on the engine to around 3k, cruise speed.. either do this yourself under the hood or have somebody on the gas pedal, then loosen the bleeder and get a good stream out then close.