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Thread: Removing trim... Anyone else this dumb????

  1. #1
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    Exclamation Removing trim... Anyone else this dumb????

    hey people...
    well... i think im gonna remove the trim on the sides of my 88 LX and do some patchwork. has anyone else done this? i've seen one witht the trim removed because the dude got into and accident and it got ripped off... it looks alright.. cept for the holes that is.... so yeah.. anyone know of a 3g that had the trim removed and the holes filled in??? then painted of course... help me out here! lol later!:ego:
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    i removed it but i didnt fill the holes in yet. i dont like them and i will fill it in when i get the chance. Where i live my car is does not look odd cuz the city is filled with ppl with there cars under cunstruction.
    ACT Stage 1, Short Ram Intake & 2.25 Dynomax custom catback w/4inch carbon fiber tip. Thats it for now.

    Putting the paint back on after

    SOMEONE STOLE MY PAINT!!!!!


  3. #3
    LXi User 88' Accord Ltd's Avatar
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    The door has a groove in it when you take the molding off so i guess if you're going to make it look like there were no moldings there in the first place you'll have to do more than patch a few holes. I think it would look kinda funny if you didn't.....
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    SteveDX89's Avatar
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    OldSchool's old car had shaved mouldings. I'm sure you can find pics of it somewhere. It looks pretty sweet.
    No projects. Life consumes my time and money.

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    what did old school fill the impressions in with?

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    You weld metal in the place where the trim was, and even it out with bondo, like any other body job....
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    2.0Si User 3G Jester's Avatar
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    hmmm...well what if u cant weld...or geting someone to weld for u would be hard.....would bondo be good for the entire depression--not just the holes? ud have to sand the metal to make it rough00---give the bondo somthing to grab---my bondo has held up pretty well..but its not a lot like that....has any one had experience with that much bondo?or shaved mouldings and bondo? you would wannna do it right be fore a paint job so it does look like crap......ummm..ya.....id like to shave my mouldings...but the black looks kinda keen on my red hatch. good contrast

    -Travis-

  8. #8
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    a car shop tried to do that to a car around here (shave molding with just bondo) it had been 6 months and they still weren't finsished.
    real 3geez http://www.3g-generation.com

    i sold the honda. now working on a car with little bit more potential, an 88 supra. i still stop by occasionally.


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    2.0Si User 3G Jester's Avatar
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    dude a week

    dude i could do it in a weekend----i know i could. too lazy to comment on full details but bondo is NOT that hard....a weekend.....well..for forming.........not painting..but i could apply and sand and prime in a weekend....

    -Travis-

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    im thinking of doing it this weekend . would you be able to give tips 3g jester. and about how much bondo id need.

    Edit- well finish it, i already have the trim off and i threw it away cuz i had to break it to get it off.
    ACT Stage 1, Short Ram Intake & 2.25 Dynomax custom catback w/4inch carbon fiber tip. Thats it for now.

    Putting the paint back on after

    SOMEONE STOLE MY PAINT!!!!!


  11. #11
    SEi User MoonScryer's Avatar
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    Completely w/ bondo is a bad idea. I'd find someone to weld stuff in place. That's just me though...
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    why do you think its a bad idea. im curious.
    ACT Stage 1, Short Ram Intake & 2.25 Dynomax custom catback w/4inch carbon fiber tip. Thats it for now.

    Putting the paint back on after

    SOMEONE STOLE MY PAINT!!!!!


  13. #13
    LX User flamed89's Avatar
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    that much bondo will crack GUARANTEED. there is no need to weld it either. there are alot of companies out there that make glue you can use. being a body tech i have had alot of experiance with it and it is awesome. you just grind off the metal, apply the glue over all the bare metal, and use self tapping screws to hold your patch on. when the glue is dry remove the screws and do the plastic work, prime, and paint. you should be able to get it at an auto body supplie store.

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    ok well since you seem to know what your doing i would like to know what to use. as in do you have a a brand name. will i just be using glue to fill it in or a plastic patch with glue. And what will i be grinding the ridges on the car where the trim used to be. Im clueless as to this technique. please elaborate. thanks
    ACT Stage 1, Short Ram Intake & 2.25 Dynomax custom catback w/4inch carbon fiber tip. Thats it for now.

    Putting the paint back on after

    SOMEONE STOLE MY PAINT!!!!!


  15. #15
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    well first off i'd like to say thank you for your input...

    i took the mouldings off... i took the long ones on the doors completely off and then i tapered the small plastic ones on the insides of the wheel wells. it looked kinda nice with the indedtation on the side of the car... almost like an air duct w/o the opening... however i filled in my driverside for shits and giggles... i asked the guy at the parts store and he said bondo is NOT the way to go.. i agreed cuz my dad and i did work on his truck a while back and bondo deteriorates after a while...
    i used fiberglass body filler. the stuff works like a charm... just sand down where ya wanna put it and start slappin it on... however you wantt o be sure not to leave ANY air pockets or your gonna be fillin a lot more than you want to be....after it dries you can sand it to any shape you want if you put enough on... i just flushed it to the doors and the wheelwells. needless to say my car needs paint.. and bad. lol..
    i dont have a pic but just picture this lol...

    Beige Honda Accord LX sedan
    Shaved mouldings in blue fiberglass bodyfiller
    Red sideskirts from a TransPort minivan
    Rear lip off of a 91 CRX fitted w/some bodyfiller
    Lemon yellow Black Widdow 4g front end
    Gray hood scoop
    3 Mangels Wheels 13'' , 1stock honda hubcap
    Sporty gas cap door
    white drums and calipers
    and Flat white 3piece spoiler

    it's the redneck ghetto hondamatic mobile

    so im gonna go for a dark blue metalic flake with a diamond clearcoat.
    Then im springing for some White 17's (whatever i can find around 700 bucks)
    wish me luck. peace!
    ForSale!
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    Altinator
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    Call or Contact Dan @ 1-617-893-8320 or E-mail at [email protected]

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    2.0Si User 3G Jester's Avatar
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    so basically u used the fiberglass bondo---same thing----well not really but its all good--my only point is ---cant do the weld.

    " fibergalss resin"--is that the jelly stuff in a can? or did u use the fiberglass sheeting......id use the sheets---fill with bondo for a back ground and the ncover with fiberglass sheets( the fabric that hardens with the gel) then that way the fiberglass has a storng backing andd if the bondo cracks it dont matter-----unless u used the fiberglass jelly which is the best of bot worlds....alas...details please!!

    -Travis-

  17. #17

    Mike's89AccordLX's Avatar
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    You can't just put bondo in the entire thing, you have to weld metal in there too. If you hit a huge bump the bondo could fall out or crack. Just bondo = not cool Get someone to weld some metal in there.

  18. #18
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    if you could find someone with a wire fed welder (or if your good pals with a muffler shop) get a piece of metal to roughly fit with little amounts of filling then weld it on their. I'd just do about 10 spot weld on the top, and 10 on the bottom, 3 on the sides... t's not the strength that it's going for so you dont need the entire thing welded on their. You'll want to make sure that the metal is a little bit lower than the rest of your door so you can hide your beads. As for how to hide it... dont ask me, i can only weld. Make sure your clean off all the paint were you are going to weld, and have bare shiney metal showing. use the same setting as they use for mufflers. (which is low, i can't remember the numbers off the top of my head...haven't welded in about 7 months with a wire fed, i did stick welding)
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    i've got a welder.. it's a Miller 1500 Mig.. wire fed the whole deal.. but i didnt want to use it because it could warp the doors... that much heat passing through it can warp it. plus i dont want to bother with re-shaping the entire door. even tack welds on low arc come out funny looking... dont worry about it falling out though.. i welded a small amount of meshplate in the groove... this way it gives something for the fiberglass to bond to and conform around. i guess i forgot to mention that...no worries. it's not going anywhere.
    3gjester----> i used fiber glass resin.. its the stuff that you have to mix together then apply.. it has the can of resin and the other can of the actual fiber. you use a high concentration of the fiber for the thicker and stronger a bond you want.
    ForSale!
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  20. #20
    2.0Si User 3G Jester's Avatar
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    thanks alll-----cant decide what im gonna do but thats fer yer imput-----i know bondo can look like shit butif udont know any one who welds or have the quick cash for a door job.....u take what you get...lol

    -Travis-

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