Hello this is my ffirst time ever doing springs and struts , but what I'm wondering is does the stabilizer bar have to be unbolted or can I remove the tire and pull it out that way , any other pointers would be appreciated . I'd prefer not to remove the stabilizer bar due to every bolt on this thing keeps breaking and I already have to drill out the strut bolt due to the head snapping thanks
You should not have to remove it, but sometime it can help allow the suspension to move easier when trying to get the fronts struts out. The rear will not be in the way at all.Originally Posted by bryan42688
Never had to remove the bar and I did mine three times. The hardest part for me was compressing the springs until I bought the right kind of spring compressors. The front springs, especially, are very small diameter and the kinds of compressors you would use for McPherson struts will be unusable.
These work well. I resisted buying them because I had already purchased another type, but ended up buying them anyway as nothing else would work.
http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-647...ing+compressor
going with stock replacements? never had to remove the sway bars but it might help to get new poly bushings for the front because they tend to crack
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
can you please describe in detail what poly bushings are , i removed the back struts and had to cut it off. the bushings between lower mount is destroyed , and the auto parts stores around me are all telling me three days , this is my daily driver , i was wondering if there is an alternative i could use like 1st gen lude please any help would be great
also i need to know if i can cut the nut off the rear strut and use a different nut. i messed up the threads trying to cut bolts like a dumbass ( lesson learned dont cut bolt while its in the strut) other wise im just going to pound the bolt in there. also want to know if any one can reccomond a lower rear strut bushing even if its universal from a local parts store but id like no modification. thanks for all the great help
for the rear busing try the CRX or civic around that years. That is your best bet. I use Rockauto.com and look thru what they have and then run it down to your localyokal parts guy. You basically got to spoon feed them the info.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
polyurethane bushings are made out of a stronger rubber that does not break down as fast as a rubber bushing. making your suspension stronger and have a better control and feel of the road.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
URGENT: i cut my front suppension off and i have a spring compressor rented from advanced , guess what , i can get it around the front springs , please can some one tell me confirmed working spring compressors that work for the front springs , ps there kyb brand
the coil spacing in the front are really small some spring compressors will not work
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
You can actually use the weight of the car to compress the spring, ive even used larger friend to compress enough to get the nut on top.
so i have everything handled as far as that one , im three down one to go , now the forth & final one i cant remove the pinch fork bolt, i was wondering can i compress the spring ( i found one that fits ) while its mounted to allow the wish bone to clear or must that bolt be removed, im sorry for all the questions, or should i cut though the front struts below the spring ( i call struts the part the spring sits on )
ps im removing original suspension parts, i had to replace both bushings in the back lower where the strut mounts
most spring compressors won't work on this car,as they are made for mcphearson struts, and this car uses conventional strut spring assemblies, almost like a coilover, the springs are just a damper, and don't support the cars weight
You can use the rented spring compressor. It is a little bit of a PITA to use but will work. I use the one by powerbuilt, like Mike suggested.
Phil
I looked at the one at three different stores and they were all for wider springs, way too big for these ones, which rented one did you find that worked?
any suggestions on how to get this pinch fork bolt out it is the origional and i am having a hell of a time , also does any one know the size so i can replace them if i have to drill them out
can i cut the strut off and then once its off would it be easier to remove the pinch fork bolt
old cars and air tools are a great useful thing. use some lubricating rust inhibitor
Be careful cutting a strut, those things are under high pressure.
if you can turn it with a ratchet and us a punch and keep hitting it It wants to turn itself out. If you have an air gun makes it alot better. if it wont turn at all you'll have to break the head off or grind both ends to get it loose.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
Geez, guys! Look at my first post in this thread. Someone else on this forum told me about the spring compressors I inserted the link for. They will work on the front springs - quite well, in fact. I invented new curse words using the wrong kind of compressors and then bought the ones on Amazon. Best $30 I spent for a tool!
Get a torch at the hardware store,the self igniting one and get it red the it should back out.
Rub a little grease on the new bolt shoulder before you re-install. It will help prevent seizing in the future. I have been reading about this problem for years on this forum, but I never had the issue myself. I did my first strut replacement when the car was nine years old and I guess living in Texas did not result in the type of corrosion that would seize the bolts.
I always put synthetic grease on bolts that I take out before I put them back in.
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