OK, as promised here's those schematics. I darkened them up so they look dirty but the finer points are much easier to see, you'll thank me when you zoom in. I also put some lines on the top to make it easier to match them up (They are fold-outs). Also please remember this is an 81, I doubt it makes a bit of difference but you never know....
I hope this link works....if not then please let me know!
http://imgur.com/a/9ZrfL
I've already had a jump attempt. 0 power nothing different. Battery HAS been tested at autozone, and topped off/recharged. I would LOVE a legit manual.Originally Posted by lostscotiaguy
To Lost:
A: Main grounds being under battery, valve cover to front chasis/radiator area, Alternator/starter being mounted?
B: Not sure how to test the Regulator, would love to know.
C: Not sure where to start, thinking I am just gonna cut the shrink wrap/sleeves off my engine wires, and clean everything up as best as I can.
Lost where do you suggest I start and how? Some wires dont carry power really.. I mean if I ground my voltmeter, and shove it in with a wire connecter in one of the slots 2 out of 6 maybe have power. Varies connector to connector..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-honda-a...263be4&vxp=mtr
$15 plus $12 shipping. There's lots on eBay you might even find one cheaper. I have one for all my cars. You can't beat a printed, factory manual!
you are over complicating this, you have a bad connection somewhere between the battery and fuse box, it will register voltage, but the connection has too much resistance and can't carry current, it's got to be a ground or battery terminal, have you replaced the battery terminals? and autozone battery tests don't mean crap, dont go near them for anything electrical
alright.. leaving autozone out of the equation, I have replaced both terminals and cables, cleaned grounds, etc.
Neighbor looked at my car and went over everything in detail, he said hes almost positive it is my voltage regulator and it could also be called a starter relay. Does it have a starter relay? Which would it be called? Two separate things?
if the battery is charged, the voltage regulator wouldn't affect everything in your car being dead, it would only affect the alternator charging, i need to look at the diagram, but again a starter relay won't affect the entire car being dead
Sorry no vid yet (i'm trying to brush up on my electrical diagnosis)....but this might help in the meantime:
http://www.vernco.com/Sparks/id606.htm
Oh, and I agree with Lostforawhiles comments....voltage regulator and starter relay wont effect anything. You say you have voltage going through the fusible link, and that your grounds are good, my only other assumption would be under your dash....any wiring that goes near your clutch pedal should be checked. It may be all wrapped up in a protective sheath but it might still be worth cutting it open so you can check out the wires inside. You can always re-wrap them with tape or that plastic wiring wrap stuff, I know you're on a budget but that stuffs pretty cheap.
Do you really need to start your engine? Then connect a wire to the + (positive) terminal on the ignition coil marked with a number 15, with the other end going to the positive bettery terminal. You can hook a switch in the wire so you can shut engine off.
Then you will see your dash lights on and you will hear the fuel pump running. You can start the engine now. If the starter motor is not working, and you have manual gearbox, you can ask a friend (or two) to push the car and then start in 2nd.
Then in your home you will have time to fix the issue.
Remember to disconnect the cable from the positive lead on the battery and the ignition coil.
I also recommend you not to use the multimeter as the first testing tool, is just making things worse and harder to check. Get a TEST LIGHT. You can SEE the problem with one of those.
Lighted=POWER Unlit=No power.
Connect the black lead (gator maybe) to ground and start touching the connections with the other lead, start with the battery to check the tool an go checking power in all the "checking points", in every place the wire is going from the 55amp main fuse.
So many reasons why
I won't be sending postcards
From Paraguay
find a piece of wire, make sure the car is in neutral, and use it to jump the starter solenoid wire directly to the battery, the smaller wire, touch it to the battery and see if the car turns over, this will tell you quick if the battery terminals grounds battery are good
Do this.
There is no starter relay but yes, do what they said by jumping the starter solenoid directly and it should work. If that fails then its either the main battery to chassis ground or its the battery itself.
Damnit.. cop rudely banged on my door just a couple mins ago waking me up.. its just a little before 9am.. so early.
Said hes putting a 24 hour notice on it, and then it is getting towed. FML!
I'll try these last two options. It's al I have left at the moment, as I am out of ideas. If it gets power by toggling the ignition coil positive (number 15) to positive battery terminal then we should be good. I've already tried cross jumping the starter, it doesnt start the car but the starter does engage and start cranking.
9am, so early? LOL
Can't you just move it somewhere? Like a driveway or parking spot?
Good luck with the last ditch efforts!
Can't find a place to have it towed. My Mechanic is out of town for another week...
I assumed the blue wire was power and the black.yellow was the ground or something on the ignition coil and the big ass plug/wire/tube thing going into the coil on the engine wasnt really anything (not sure what it is really)
I hooked a 12g power wire (extras from my toggle switches) to the positive terminal and the other end to the blue wire assuming it was power and my wipers started moving!!!!! I left the switch on messing around with stuff trying to figure out what works, and they havent worked. I hooked up another 12g wire to positive and the other end to the starter, it started cranking but wouldnt fire up. Progress?? Is my ignition coil bad? I''m gonna go back and tighten down the wire to the ignition coil and probably splice in a toggle.. think I have an extra lying around in the honda.
What do I do? Did I have a break through??
Lol..
The black yellow is infact the positive (15), assuming is not good in this business!
Blue is the ignition signal, dont connect anything there...
OK, the big ass wire going from the middle of the coil to the distributor is the one sending the spark to the spark plugs. Leave it alone for now.
If your wipers start moving, that means the wiper switch in your steering column is activated. Turn it off.
Feed the #15 (BLACK & YELLOW wire) and do the following checks:
Your red dash indicators should lit.
You should hear the fuel pump close to the rear left wheel clicking.
If everything is ok, the crank the starter and start that engine.
I'll be here if you need some more advice.
Or you can mail me is anything is not working as intended. [email protected].
Good luck.
So many reasons why
I won't be sending postcards
From Paraguay
I still think that its your white, fat main power wire to the fusebox under the dash seeing how everything else works when you jumped them.
How exactly did you hook up your toggle switches?
This is how it should work on the ignition switch:
White > white/red (acc)
White > black/yellow (ign)
White > black/white (if im not mistaken?? - start)
White is main batt + obviously. You should try jumping the white cable on the ignition switch directly to the battery power and see if it works.
Nah the black yellow didnt work. Was kind of hoping it would have. It sounds good to hear my engine crank.. just wish it would turn over and fire up.. Its been awhile.. I moved it so it wouldnt get towed, owner of the place I live is giving me 2 days.
Ugh....
I cut open my wire harness in a few spots that look like major shit and didnt find any burns at all. Not sure how deep the issue is. My fuses are good, don't know if they are getting power at the moment...
3 switches
2 toggles
1 starter button
toggle one: power (white) load (ignition) ground
toggle two: power (white) load (acc) ground
starter button: ignition, starter
does starter button need a power source? Does it need a ground source? It has two prong screw thingys..
Should I unwrap the starter button and the ignition toggle and cross the power wire over to the starter wire? (should have fuckin labeled these, black and red wires only)
Pretty sure if I just put a power wire on the starter wire it will just be like cross jumping the starter itself, which doesnt turn the engine on.
Ok... lets put things this way: If you feed the black and yellow wire +, and everything else is not messed up, is like your original ignition switch is still in place.
Then you should have spark at your dist. If you have fuel flowing to your carb, it should start, no rocket science here.
Anyways, glad you moved the car so it wont be towed.
So many reasons why
I won't be sending postcards
From Paraguay
If your key's not in the running position it wont run!!! Even if you jump the starter directly....god this s**t is tense! and those toggles are confusing the hell out of me...I'm so lost.
Last edited by lostscotiaguy; 09-06-2012 at 12:08 AM.
Me too
Maybe I missed it, but where are you Cthulu?
I was suggesting he jump the starter just to see if the battery and cables are in good condition
may I suggest hooking the key switch back up and seeing if it runs
If you hook a wire from the black and yellow ignition coil wire to the positive post of battery and jump the starter it will fire right up. You can remove the ignition key, you can unplug the ignition lock but the thing will start anyway. You can check it for yourself.
So many reasons why
I won't be sending postcards
From Paraguay
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