80 Accord Hatch: Electrical issue

[Cthulhu]

Have been posting around on a couple other forums to no avail.


Seems that I don't have any power besides to my Toggle switchs (Ignition, and Accessory) because the LEDs turn on when I flip them on. But when I step on my clutch they turn off, and when I turn my Dome light on they turn off.

Dome light has no power, no dash light power, no headlights, no starter clicks, nothing is engaging.


Have been at it for a month now trying to get my 1G running again. Girlfriend wants me to scrap it so we can get another car but $250 won't get me another car.

Hazwan was helping me over on Honda-Tech, but they stopped replying.

[lostforawhile]

Have been posting around on a couple other forums to no avail.


Seems that I don't have any power besides to my Toggle switchs (Ignition, and Accessory) because the LEDs turn on when I flip them on. But when I step on my clutch they turn off, and when I turn my Dome light on they turn off.

Dome light has no power, no dash light power, no headlights, no starter clicks, nothing is engaging.


Have been at it for a month now trying to get my 1G running again. Girlfriend wants me to scrap it so we can get another car but $250 won't get me another car.

Hazwan was helping me over on Honda-Tech, but they stopped replying.

thats odd he's over here what are the toggle switches for?

[Cthulhu]

thats odd he's over here what are the toggle switches for?

Toggle switches are for Ignition, and Accessory. I also installed a starter button.


Reason being these were installed as a month ago my car stopped getting power, and hasn't ran since.. I thought it could have been my ignition cylinder or ignition switch, so I went to find/buy cylinder/switch and could not find anywhere. So I installed the toggles/button in hopes it would cure my problem..


No fix, and still stuck with dead 1g

[lostforawhile]

Toggle switches are for Ignition, and Accessory. I also installed a starter button.


Reason being these were installed as a month ago my car stopped getting power, and hasn't ran since.. I thought it could have been my ignition cylinder or ignition switch, so I went to find/buy cylinder/switch and could not find anywhere. So I installed the toggles/button in hopes it would cure my problem..


No fix, and still stuck with dead 1g

have you checked all the basic stuff, battery grounds battery terminals, if the switch lights go out when you turn on the dome light it sounds like a dead battery or bad terminal

[Cthulhu]

have you checked all the basic stuff, battery grounds battery terminals, if the switch lights go out when you turn on the dome light it sounds like a dead battery or bad terminal

I've checked all the basic stuff and even started replacing stuff with the hunch that it would fix my issues...

Replaced both battery terminals and new cables for both. Cleaned ground points (negative terminal to engine pivot to chassis, valve cover to radiator mount area above headlamp)


Replaced the 55a Fusible link/main fuse. Checked for blown fuses, found one that looked fishy and replaced it.

Battery and alternator were tested and appear to be in good health

[lostforawhile]

I've checked all the basic stuff and even started replacing stuff with the hunch that it would fix my issues...

Replaced both battery terminals and new cables for both. Cleaned ground points (negative terminal to engine pivot to chassis, valve cover to radiator mount area above headlamp)


Replaced the 55a Fusible link/main fuse. Checked for blown fuses, found one that looked fishy and replaced it.

Battery and alternator were tested and appear to be in good health

the fact that the dome light isn't working either is telling me no power is getting from the battery to the car, the dome light circuit has nothing to do with the ignition circuits, some circuits should always have power, you need to get a test lamp or something and start testing, I'm thinking that junction block, is it the one with the link or without the link in it? for some reason power isn't reaching the fuse box, check all connections at your fuse box where power comes in, no reason to scrap the car this is something simple

[Cthulhu]

the fact that the dome light isn't working either is telling me no power is getting from the battery to the car, the dome light circuit has nothing to do with the ignition circuits, some circuits should always have power, you need to get a test lamp or something and start testing, I'm thinking that junction block, is it the one with the link or without the link in it? for some reason power isn't reaching the fuse box, check all connections at your fuse box where power comes in, no reason to scrap the car this is something simple

I got a multimeter (Innova 3320) and I bought a tester thing. Not positive on how to use them really.. but I think my fuse box has power?

If I go to my fuse box and find where all the wires are at start check there? I'm not positive on what exactly must be done to check, my 12v Battery test mode has only worked for battery, and my DC-V mode is wonky and shows random numbers, or shows 0, and I think when it shows 0 it means there is power. Will test it after I drop my lady off at work (borrowing a cavalier that is firing on 3 cylinders what a gas hog)

Do you know if the clutch has any electrical in it, like wiring or sensors or something? The power to my LEDs shut off when I push it in as well.. seems weird

[lostforawhile]

I got a multimeter (Innova 3320) and I bought a tester thing. Not positive on how to use them really.. but I think my fuse box has power?

If I go to my fuse box and find where all the wires are at start check there? I'm not positive on what exactly must be done to check, my 12v Battery test mode has only worked for battery, and my DC-V mode is wonky and shows random numbers, or shows 0, and I think when it shows 0 it means there is power. Will test it after I drop my lady off at work (borrowing a cavalier that is firing on 3 cylinders what a gas hog)

Do you know if the clutch has any electrical in it, like wiring or sensors or something? The power to my LEDs shut off when I push it in as well.. seems weird

no wiring or sensors or anything, it's mechanical, you have a loose connection somewhere, probably near the fuse box,it's possible the clutch being pushed moves something, somewhere on there there should be a heavy power wire coming from the battery coming into the fuse box, you need to check for voltage there, you should read around 12 volts if the battery is good, 0 means you don't have any voltage, if the junction block has only one wire try disconnecting it and jumper the wires together for a minute, I'm thinking the issue is there, if it's bad I have spares, where are you located? see if anyone else from here lives near you maby a second set of eyes will help

[Cthulhu]

no wiring or sensors or anything, it's mechanical, you have a loose connection somewhere, probably near the fuse box,it's possible the clutch being pushed moves something, somewhere on there there should be a heavy power wire coming from the battery coming into the fuse box, you need to check for voltage there, you should read around 12 volts if the battery is good, 0 means you don't have any voltage, if the junction block has only one wire try disconnecting it and jumper the wires together for a minute, I'm thinking the issue is there, if it's bad I have spares, where are you located? see if anyone else from here lives near you maby a second set of eyes will help

The battery reads 12 when I have tested it.. well 12.55-12.65

And I haven't been able to find the heavy gauge power wire I'll look again, they all for the most part seem the same to me unless its REAAALLY in there. I haven't figured out how to take my entire dash apart, just got underneath the steering column taking out.

I'm just saying my multimeter is weird.. not positive on how to use it so I really need to figure it out.. how do I test the huge wire when I find it? Cut into it put my positive on it and ground the negative?? I figured out how to use the continuity setting its easy as can be and has a bell when power goes through properly.

Thanks!

[lostforawhile]

The battery reads 12 when I have tested it.. well 12.55-12.65

And I haven't been able to find the heavy gauge power wire I'll look again, they all for the most part seem the same to me unless its REAAALLY in there. I haven't figured out how to take my entire dash apart, just got underneath the steering column taking out.

I'm just saying my multimeter is weird.. not positive on how to use it so I really need to figure it out.. how do I test the huge wire when I find it? Cut into it put my positive on it and ground the negative?? I figured out how to use the continuity setting its easy as can be and has a bell when power goes through properly.

Thanks!

you don't need to cut into anything, black lead on ground red lead to one of the terminals at that wire, have you checked for voltage at any of your fuses under the dash? the fuse box will come out without removing the dash, meter on dc volts some circuits such as the lights etc will always have power, since nothing is working the issue is between the fuse box and battery

[Cthulhu]

you don't need to cut into anything, black lead on ground red lead to one of the terminals at that wire, have you checked for voltage at any of your fuses under the dash? the fuse box will come out without removing the dash, meter on dc volts some circuits such as the lights etc will always have power, since nothing is working the issue is between the fuse box and battery

Hopefully... having second thoughts about if I did my toggle wiring properly.

[lostforawhile]

Hopefully... having second thoughts about if I did my toggle wiring properly.

it won't matter nothing works, lights,dome light,hazards etc have nothing to do with that at all, there seems to be no power at the fuse box, double check your grounds

[Cthulhu]

it won't matter nothing works, lights,dome light,hazards etc have nothing to do with that at all, there seems to be no power at the fuse box, double check your grounds

It seems that a lot of my wire cluster has power but 8 fuses arent getting power. Most tge ones that arent wprking are 10A i only got 15a and 20a on me. So it will wait. They dobt seem blown. Just zero power not even to the under wires.

Wires without power are consecutively left head high, and low, right head high, and low, cooling fan, wiper washer, regulator fuel pump, turn signal ligh reverse light fuel meter. Seems that a couple arent the right amperage in cooling fan is a 25a and wipwr washer looks like a 30a. Ugh i hate tge previous owner.

[Cthulhu]

You said something about a junction block? What is it whats it look like? Jumper the wires?? Im in Oregon and trying to get ready for the 3geez meet on the 26th.

[Cthulhu]

I found this huge black thing with dozens of wires going into it. Is it suppoaed to be grounded? It has screws and mounts somewhere.. Words cannot describe my lack of knowledge

Sorry for the multiple posts, was on my phone giving updates using WiFi. It's getting dark but I learned a few more things that are problematic with the electrical. Not sure what the fix is, and still a bit stumped about a few things. Any Oregon 3geez members??? Have been offering my mechanic friends $$ if they want to come out and help me, but no replies yet.

[lostforawhile]

does this one have the block under the hood with multiple fusible links? I wish I could get ahold of a wiring diagram for this I could help you much more someone must have a diagram

[Cthulhu]

does this one have the block under the hood with multiple fusible links? I wish I could get ahold of a wiring diagram for this I could help you much more someone must have a diagram

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66299

Is the best I have found for a manual... Not sure how accurate it is, and I have not seen a fusible link box in the engine area. Only one I know of is the one off the positive battery cable.

[Cthulhu]

I'm in over my head...

[2ndGenGuy]

It seems that a lot of my wire cluster has power but 8 fuses arent getting power. Most tge ones that arent wprking are 10A i only got 15a and 20a on me. So it will wait. They dobt seem blown. Just zero power not even to the under wires.

Wires without power are consecutively left head high, and low, right head high, and low, cooling fan, wiper washer, regulator fuel pump, turn signal ligh reverse light fuel meter. Seems that a couple arent the right amperage in cooling fan is a 25a and wipwr washer looks like a 30a. Ugh i hate tge previous owner.

That sounds right. Those won't be powered until you turn those systems on. For instance, if you turn on your headlights, that's when they should be getting power. So I'm assuming that the rest of the fuses do have power when the ignition is on?

I think the whole thing is, we are confused as to what is actually going on. I know I am. Because now you're saying you have power to some of the circuits, and I can't figure out when you do have power, what has power when, and when you don't have power.

I think to clear this all up, can you make a video and post it on YouTube? Electrical diagnosis is really difficult over the internet. You need to make the video really clear though as to what is going on.

If not, if you can answer these specific questions, this might help...

1. Does everything work before the you turn on the ignition? Your headlights? Your brake lights? Those should all work without turning on the ignition.

2. Then turn the ignition on. Don't do anything EXCEPT turn on the ignition. What happens? Do the idiot lights light up on the gauge cluster? Then check if the headlights and brake lights still work?

3. Leave the car in neutral, and try to start it. You mention that power cuts out when you push your clutch in. Will it start without the clutch pushed in? The clutch is not connected to anything electrical, so it should not affect anything. If pushing the clutch pedal in affects something, then you need to look around the clutch pedal for pinched wires. Jiggle shit around under the dash and see if things come back on or turn off and try to isolate it. Get under the hood, follow the clutch master cylinder line down to the slave cylinder, and see if the clutch lever on the transmission has any wires on it or around it that are getting pinched.

4. Push in the clutch, if the power cuts out, then when does it come back on?


EDIT: The other thing I might do is disconnect all the stereo shit. It sounds like maybe it was hacked into the car, and it could be shorting out the whole electrical system. Disconnect the amplifiers from the battery, and maybe even disconnect the radio. Also, I would be willing to bet that after your car has been sitting a couple of weeks, your battery is probably getting low again.

[Cthulhu]

That sounds right. Those won't be powered until you turn those systems on. For instance, if you turn on your headlights, that's when they should be getting power. So I'm assuming that the rest of the fuses do have power when the ignition is on?

I think the whole thing is, we are confused as to what is actually going on. I know I am. Because now you're saying you have power to some of the circuits, and I can't figure out when you do have power, what has power when, and when you don't have power.

I think to clear this all up, can you make a video and post it on YouTube? Electrical diagnosis is really difficult over the internet. You need to make the video really clear though as to what is going on.

If not, if you can answer these specific questions, this might help...

1. Does everything work before the you turn on the ignition? Your headlights? Your brake lights? Those should all work without turning on the ignition.

2. Then turn the ignition on. Don't do anything EXCEPT turn on the ignition. What happens? Do the idiot lights light up on the gauge cluster? Then check if the headlights and brake lights still work?

3. Leave the car in neutral, and try to start it. You mention that power cuts out when you push your clutch in. Will it start without the clutch pushed in? The clutch is not connected to anything electrical, so it should not affect anything. If pushing the clutch pedal in affects something, then you need to look around the clutch pedal for pinched wires. Jiggle shit around under the dash and see if things come back on or turn off and try to isolate it. Get under the hood, follow the clutch master cylinder line down to the slave cylinder, and see if the clutch lever on the transmission has any wires on it or around it that are getting pinched.

4. Push in the clutch, if the power cuts out, then when does it come back on?


EDIT: The other thing I might do is disconnect all the stereo shit. It sounds like maybe it was hacked into the car, and it could be shorting out the whole electrical system. Disconnect the amplifiers from the battery, and maybe even disconnect the radio. Also, I would be willing to bet that after your car has been sitting a couple of weeks, your battery is probably getting low again.

I'll make a video tomorrow.

1. Nope, nothing works.

2. No dummy gauge, no dashlights, no headlights or brake lights.

3. Pushing the clutch in didn't shut the power off after I moved the wires around and stuff.

4. Lets say that the clutch issue is fixed, but when I try to turn my dome light on the LEDs turn off, and when I turn the dome light off, they LEDs turn back on slowly but dimly.

All stereo shit is disconnected and removed from my car as I do not like it sitting in one spot for so long for prying eyes. Battery read 12.6V when I tested it today. It has been unplugged every time I leave the car.



Let me sum up how I see it: ZERO VISIBLE POWER besides to my toggle LEDs, lets not assume that because my ignition and accessory toggle LEDs are on that the Ignition and Accessory are being powered as well, because each toggle is basically 3 connections: Power, Load, Ground. It doesn't have to do its Load, but it is getting power and grounding enough to show LED lights functioning.



Out of the 8 fuses that are not getting power, there is a key one that isn't delivering to my Ignition switch. If I trace it backwards on the wiring diagram, it goes to my regulator. If I go forward it turns in to my Ignition..

My Black.Yellow: Cooling fan, regulator, Ignition, solenoid, coil...


Might do the video tonight depending on how face the phone charges..

[Cthulhu]

Uploading two videos now.. they are dark, but show what I mean... Exactly as described how doing anything shuts off my toggle switches.

http://youtu.be/jvx44NcAZjQ

I didn't pre-watch these as my daughter is sleeping and I dont wanna know how loud they are.

http://youtu.be/m-AWtKmIfmM

Videos are up now.

[lostforawhile]

Uploading two videos now.. they are dark, but show what I mean... Exactly as described how doing anything shuts off my toggle switches.

I think you cut the wires from the key switch for nothing, I'm positive there is a very low voltage due to a bad connection between the fuse box and the battery, there's enough current to allow the LEDS to light,but if you try and pull anymore it can't flow in the circuit

[lostforawhile]

is this your thread on honda tech? http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3079946


did you check all these things they suggested? I still say that fusible link is bad they might look ok and not function at all have you tried to jumper it?

[lostforawhile]

if thats your post on Honda tech and everything died when you went over a bump, I'm almost positive thats got something to do with a loose battery cable, I know you said you checked them,but thats almost always what causes this

[Hazwan]

Sorry for disappearing but looks like lost have got you covered with the basics.

I'm out of ideas now grrrr