PROJECT , TURBO ( bobafett )

[HondaSi88]

buy it and make it fit!

[skull1441]

i doubt that it will fit if u have a stock bumper

[AccordEpicenter]

dunno ill tell ya when i get it IDK it looks like itd fit but itll be tight... very tight.

[RobT5580]

It will be tight but i think it can be done mine is about 26x5.5x3. Your going to have to modify the hood latch cross beam either way. But it should be simple if you just make a cross beam.

[lightbulblxi]

i bet u could make it fit.

[bobafett]

i have been talking to a few friends of mine with lots of turbo/tuning experience, and theyre saying that a terrible style intercooler... basically its so long and so thin that you will see a significant ammount of pressure drop. a more ideal intercooler would be taller and thicker, also there are two styles of intercoolers: bar and plate (better) and tube and fin (not as good)...

since i have never turboed a car i cant speak from experience, but the people i talked to can...

[HondaSi88]

the saab front mount IC fits ok! I sized it up and then sent the IC to the shop for repair

[RobT5580]

Yeah i preffered the taller spearco FMIC similar to what Justin had mine is just a little bigger than what he had. If you go on ebay there is a guy selling them for a nice price and pretty much any size you want. I just measured the opening in my car and tried to find the best fit.

Here is mine:

Its a real spearco core with custom end tanks the guy on ebay is from canada and is listed as NY in the ebay profile. But he always has a bunch up for sale and will find a size if you need a specific size like i did.

[Justin86]

If make mods to the hood latch or just get rid of it completely, pull the A/C bullshit, and with the 5 speed radiator you should have enough from for a good FMIC with the stock bumper.

[RobT5580]

It doesnt go that far back it goes in front of the A/C condensor. The hood latch has a support that goes straight down so its simple enought to take some square tubing and make a cross brace. I personally think Justin's setup was the best i have seen yet for the accord and it was clean and simple. I have his setup now which i was going to have all redone in one piece sections but for cost reasons just cleaned his up (ground all the welds down and powdercoated).

[preluder]

I an currently working on a custom turbo setup on my A series engine, custom built turbo header, (email me for pics) using a mitsu turbo from a 91 dodge shadow.

[Elijah]

I dunno if you'll want to do this, but I like the Exhaust Gas Temp guage (pyrometer) better than the AF ratio gauge. Probably because I'm an anal retentive engineering student and like to have numbers attached to everything, plus the AF guage seems like sometimes it just bounces around and doesn't seem to do much more than look cool. Just my $.02.
A good porting job will benfit you now and after the turbo is operational. I'm not sure a swap to the 88-89 intake would help you very much, but porting yours probably would. As far as reliability, all i can say is fuel mangement. Someone more familiar with the 3g's fuel system will have to elaborate, but that area is key. Going lean is a sure-fire way of blowing your motor. Then again, thats what the pyrometer or AF meter is there for.



Once you finish the project, you can make some $$ back by selling that DC header.

I couldnt agree more about the a/f i have one and its just light show in my car.

[Elijah]

Wow I just noticed how old this is are you still doing it?

[bobafett]

hahah cant believe i started this thread so long ago.

the new plan is to turbo my 12V SOHC 240sx, i decided to keep the accord as a daily driver, since its much more reliable than the nissan. im gonna rebuild the accord with a bit of headwork, new clutch and b16 manifold and call it a day!

the 240 is now the bitch who im dumping all my money into!

classic thread though. there is a lot of info i think

[AccordEpicenter]

put it together and race me

[Low Tek]

put it together and race me

I don't think he is racing, he is another drifter now.. lol

man.. I remember this thread.. holy hell, this is sooo old!!

[AccordEpicenter]

ghey

[bobafett]

hi there turbo people. got a simple question for those of u who have been there.

stock CR on my accord (86) is around 8.8:1... im gonna probably run a conservative CR of 9.5:1 when i get my aftermarket pistons in for my new motor...

if u dont know about that whole process, i have a thread about it in this same forum. this is a different Q, so im making a new thread for this, since its a totally different discussion.

all i want to know is: is this a good idea to boost the motor with 9.5:1 compression, assuming that i will do something better than a straight up hack for management. im thinking obd0 with turbo edit, or obd1 and uberdata... one of those free honda managment systems. from the shit i have picked up on this forum, people think that running super high CR, like 10.5+ is no sweat. but i know that not that many people have done it. the shop who is building my engine knows its gonna be daily driven ,and they are reccomending against much higher than a 9.5:1 with stock management ,which i will undoubtedly have at first.

im just wondering if u think i will blow my motor to smithereens with 9.5:1, even if its tuned. i cant afford to lose the motor, but all i need to boost it is a few odds and ends. i already have most of the shit i need together for the 240 project.

anyway its something i may attempt down the road, cause 9.5:1 SEEEMS pretty consirvative to me, so i have a funny feeling i could get away with boost still. maybe something low, like 10psi with a super60 or something.

does anyone know of a good ball bearing turbo charger that would be a good size for the accord, and doesnt cost $2k lol...

ps for those who are too lazy to read my engine build thread, the new engine consists of the following:

head:
ti valve retainers
8500rpm tested dual wound valve springs
forged valves (stock size )
valve grind
head shaved and bowls all ported, basically they are giving the head a good once over, and touching everything to maximize efficiency and flow.
delta 272 cam or larger
3 angle valve grind
b16 AEBS intake manifold
everything portmatched and opened up.
68mm bbk throttle body
aem fuel rail
aem fuel pressure regulator
dc sports header w/full 2.5" exhaust includeing high flow cat

block:
eagle h beam rods with arp bolts
16.5 lbs lightened flywheel
spec stage 3 six-puck clutch (259 ft/lbs)
diamond 9.5:1 forged pistons w/1.2mm rings (good for boost)
arp head studs
bored .040
king tri-metal bearings
high flow oil pump
balanced and blue printed botom end
probably cryo'ed crankshaft and cam and anything else i decide is worthwhile.

the motor is built for 8000 rpm abuse, even though my rev limit will kick in at 6950 its just meant to take NA abuse. but now that i have a built motor, that will probably only make 160whp, and its built to shit, i figure the smartest thing might be to boost it. at first i will run super low boost just to get the quircks worked out sice i will have to be running the super secret obd1 tuning program, but eventually im sure that block could hold 20psi it i wanted to (which i dont).

what are your opinions, does this spell disaster or not?

[MoonScryer]

Ditch the cam, and boost it. You got a good build. CR isn't very high at all. Set at about 8psi for a good everyday driver, and you will have lots of good life.

[Vanilla Sky]

just going to have to keep the thing tuned perfectly. a high CR turbo motor will get you great gains. they are just hard to keep reliable.

i've always wanted to boost a high CR engine myself. low boost with high CR.

[mykwikcoupe]

im with the other. cr is great for a mild turbo. Cam is ok since its a mid rev cam. Id recommend a dual stage with scramble boost controller. Set stage 1 for street something in the under 12 range with a t3 turbo. Itll give a good powerband with more than enough for the street. set the stage 2 for all out drag fun or something more to your liking. Thge scamble function for a all-out outrageous powerband meaning the best tune you could get and stage fat in the fuel. Thats my plan. Like most will say go with a t3 super 60 or at least a 48/60 60 trim. Full boost no lag by 3-3500. The nice bottom end will help enormously in the daily driven lowend stuff. Nice setup.

[bobafett]

thanks guys... hopefully its not a bad thing your giving me confidence on this idea. heheh

ill read up on the scramble boost controllers, i know turbo magazine just did a review of them. i am gonna have to do a looooot of research into the management of something like this.

hardware is pretty much under control for the boosting itself ,but i havent put in the time to research which injectors (will probably go with dsm 450's and a walbro 255) and boost controler (either a nice manual, or lookin into the terrifying boost spiking realm of electronic controllers... )

[bobafett]

not necessarily. its a pretty cool idea. although the MBC is hardcore, tried and true, and they cost 1/5 the price!

[bobafett]

I wanna see a good dyno run after it's all put back together.

And after turbo.

=)

im going to dyno the shitty motor before i swap in the good one ,and im going to dyno the NA built motor afterwards, and IF i boost that motor, it will be tuned on a dyno ,so i will have plenty of #'s for u...

[gfrg88]

get ready for AOM when your done with this....