No start situation, 1400 miles on OBD1.

[Susanoo]

there is no eld fix. You need to disable it. The eld is located in the fuse box of the of the civic. You can try there. you probably need to install a 4 wire o2.

Well...can I not take it out of the fuse box and install it to mine or is it that worthless?
Elpuma on here used the original one.wire if I followed his thread correctly. Besides. I got told by three honda guys to check the cat. For the first month of FI I didn't have a correctly connected map sensor so I dumped fuel for a month. So for lack of help here besides 89T, I'm gonna rely on them. At one time I felt welcome here. Not anymore.

[89T]

Well...can I not take it out of the fuse box and install it to mine or is it that worthless?
Elpuma on here used the original one.wire if I followed his thread correctly. Besides. I got told by three honda guys to check the cat. For the first month of FI I didn't have a correctly connected map sensor so I dumped fuel for a month. So for lack of help here besides 89T, I'm gonna rely on them. At one time I felt welcome here. Not anymore.

I was looking into the eld fix some time ago, but after figuring out it could be disabled. That was the easier option. If you are throwing a code. the ecu automaticaly puts it self into limp mode or called safe mode. It will will richen up the fuel and make timing changes. This could be what you are experiencing. The first thing that needs to be done is get that code fixed or disable the sensor. What software are you using?

Trust me you are very much welcome here. The knowlege base on obd1 swap/swap dianostics is limmited to a handful of us that have done the swap. Most, if any did not have the same problems you are having. I will continue to help as much as I can.

[elpuma]

Susanoo when you cut the 3 wires off the obd0 dizzy did you ground the black one on the new obd1 dizzy? There should of been a black, black/yellow, and a blue wire.

[2oodoor]

None of you veterans are going to chime in? I want my stuff fixed for Import Alliance and besides that I need it for work and personal...this is my daily driver too

Chime in on what? You state a problem then you come back later with reasons why you never came back, then state you fixed whatever then bring up another problem. Its hard to follow man.
You should never have over 5.xx volts those upper engine sensors for the ecm. This does not include servos of the ecm or o2 snsors, generally speaking. 5 volt reference signal is just that, signal voltage not apPlication voltage. The two are isolated currents. 7 volts sounds like a wrong wire feeding in to the commnication harness for the ecm and/or a grounding problem. That could be happening at a relay as well, back feeding 12v current in to the 5 v reference ecm signal circuits.
You have a way to read all the data at once?
You are getting good tips here by the more experienced obd swap guys so I hope you find their help usefull.

[2oodoor]

If you think you have clogged cats though just pull out an o2 sensor, that relieves the back pressure and you can test drive it in open loop. That will tell you if its stopped up without cutting up your system.

[Susanoo]

I was looking into the eld fix some time ago, but after figuring out it could be disabled. That was the easier option. If you are throwing a code. the ecu automaticaly puts it self into limp mode or called safe mode. It will will richen up the fuel and make timing changes. This could be what you are experiencing. The first thing that needs to be done is get that code fixed or disable the sensor. What software are you using?

Trust me you are very much welcome here. The knowlege base on obd1 swap/swap dianostics is limmited to a handful of us that have done the swap. Most, if any did not have the same problems you are having. I will continue to help as much as I can.

I guess thats just how honda works...its not important so lets make the engine run like shit anyway -_- The only way I can disable it is to have yet another chip burned disabling the ELD. I have a copy of crome free but I havent figured everything out yet and I have no way of burning a rom anyway.

I do understand theres a limited number of people but OBD1 is simple...ITS OBD1! The only difference between my obd1 and a teg that comes with obd1, for example, is the wiring and how the wires are routed. Course, yes, 4 wire O2 is usually found on obd1 but I dont have one. Simply put, even though all this shit was done by me and its not exactly like someone elses. People on here have a general understanding of things and I really dont care if things are thrown at me at this point cause I cant figure it out and I've already thrown over 500 dollars into it THIS month alone.

elpuma, dont you run the original O2 sensor??? I followed your build and guide closer then anyone and straight copied your pinout. Only difference is I used the old EGR signal wire for the ICM signal to aid in wire tucking.

Susanoo when you cut the 3 wires off the obd0 dizzy did you ground the black one on the new obd1 dizzy? There should of been a black, black/yellow, and a blue wire.

The blue I put on the negative post of the coil, the black goes to the negative of the coil and the black/yellow goes to the positive of the coil...as I read on here..

Chime in on what? You state a problem then you come back later with reasons why you never came back, then state you fixed whatever then bring up another problem. Its hard to follow man.
You should never have over 5.xx volts those upper engine sensors for the ecm. This does not include servos of the ecm or o2 snsors, generally speaking. 5 volt reference signal is just that, signal voltage not apPlication voltage. The two are isolated currents. 7 volts sounds like a wrong wire feeding in to the commnication harness for the ecm and/or a grounding problem. That could be happening at a relay as well, back feeding 12v current in to the 5 v reference ecm signal circuits.
You have a way to read all the data at once?
You are getting good tips here by the more experienced obd swap guys so I hope you find their help usefull.

Look dude I didnt know there were multiple issues okay? I fix one and find another, what the hell do you want me to say? sorry? All I can say is that you'll have to put it together in your head and compare everything I've done with what you know could be wrong now. I fixed all the sensor issues when I repaired SG2. Only the ECT was connected to the ECU properly.

What do you mean by a way to read all the data at once??

I do find their help useful, I do...especially 89T and elpuma, I recognize their expertise over many other peoples because they stay more active here then anyone i've ever seen.

[89T]

I'll take a look at the wiring diagram when i get a chance. It might be a couple of days out.

Look into neptune/demon for a fully funtionable software-hardware package. I know its more money but the package is unbeliveable.

[Susanoo]

I'll take a look at the wiring diagram when i get a chance. It might be a couple of days out.

Look into neptune/demon for a fully funtionable software-hardware package. I know its more money but the package is unbeliveable.

I'll try to double check some things. One thing I'll mention is that I had a guy come over the other night and unplugged the sensors one by one to note the change and when he unplugged the TPS, nothing, no change. I thought it should have made a difference and he said it should have idled up, down or done the wah pow, wah pow, wah pow, wah pow...typical of the tw sensor.

And wait...what? software-hardware package? Right now man I just wanna get this running right...If other people can run good on stock ecu's then why cant I, at least for now...I mean I plan for better stuff but its all in time.

[elpuma]

I pulled my black wire off to see if it changed anything and nothing. I don't have my black wire hooked up with the blue one like you do though. I just hooked mine to the body of the dizzy.

I too have a slight idle flutter but i believe that's is do to the aggressive cam i run in the car.

I was running the original o2 sensors but after i got it street tuned they were disabled.

[89T]

With the neptune, you keep the honda ecu, but you add a board to the ecu(demon). Let me get a link.

http://www.hrtuning.com/pages/category/neptune-rtp

this will make the stock ecu into a fully funtional "stand alone" ecu. Real time tuning and no chip burning. Just plug it in to a laptop and go.

On the TPS you have 3 wires. 5v+/ground/signal. Signal should read 0v closed and 4.5-5v wide open throttle. do you have that?

[Susanoo]

With the neptune, you keep the honda ecu, but you add a board to the ecu(demon). Let me get a link.

http://www.hrtuning.com/pages/category/neptune-rtp

this will make the stock ecu into a fully funtional "stand alone" ecu. Real time tuning and no chip burning. Just plug it in to a laptop and go.

On the TPS you have 3 wires. 5v+/ground/signal. Signal should read 0v closed and 4.5-5v wide open throttle. do you have that?

I'm broke either way dude.

Yea I have 5 volts on yellow, but I read in a manual that closed...red should put out .50 and then the 4.5-5 volts fully open.

I just pulled codes too and found 10 and 7 again so I have no idea what the hell is going on.

[89T]

Well fuck. Back to square 1. So, if all the grounds are good, and you soldered all connections.. metered all the sensors to make sure all is good with those... I'd hate to say that you are going to have to go through all the connections again.

you are using the interior harness from an efi accord? what year accord it came out of.
what engine harness? I assume off the same efi accord as well.
Painfully, the tuck harness will come into question as well. Did you get connectors off another accord or did you just cut and splice?

It's hard for me to find the problem with out getting my hands on it.

I need as much feedback and detail you can give in order to help you out. If you can give pictures on connections and such. It will help out.

[Susanoo]

Well fuck. Back to square 1. So, if all the grounds are good, and you soldered all connections.. metered all the sensors to make sure all's good with those... I'd hate to say that you are going to have to go through all the connections again.

you are using the interrior harness from an efi accord? what year accord it came out of.
what engine harness? I assume off the same efi accord as well.
Painfully, the tuck harness will come into question as well. Did you get connectors off another accord or did you just cut and splice?

It's hard for me to find the problem with out getting my hands on it.

I need as much feedback and detail you can give in order to help you out. If you can give pictures on connections and such. It will help out.

Ask and you shall receive...Im gonna go right now and take pictures of everything...but after that im gonna go to the range and relieve my stress of this car. -.- However I should reply within the next hour or two so expect my reply Thank you so much 89T. Umm As far as the harness, I got it from an 88 if i remember correctly. I know at some point I questioned myself and remembered more confidently then. I did also take connectors from a 4G Accord harness because the ones from my FI harness were kinda worn. I recently repaired the ect with a gray one from the same donor harness. I tried to copy wire colors or patterns as closely as possible. Like on the IAT circuit its a white/red wire, so I used some plug from the 4G harness that had a yellow/black(?) and tied those together because I figured these are just resisters and a guy on the facebook said it shouldnt matter...soo....you can confirm or deny that one if you would please.

[89T]

Ok. The only plugs you needed from a 4g were for the dizzy. If the plugs are the same and the wiring was carfully matched up to the same position as the stock accord plug. It should be good. I would not rely on wire colors.

[2oodoor]

Just to clarify: where on the harness did you resolder the ALT signal mentioned in the first post? Also is there Anything else not working as it should, electronic or electrical?(tach, guages , idiot lights etc)
Thanks , anything else you can think of could help someone help you figure this out.

[89T]

check with this and read the post

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...=1#post1030003

[Susanoo]

Ok. The only plugs you needed from a 4g were for the dizzy. If the plugs are the same and the wiring was carfully matched up to the same position as the stock accord plug. It should be good. I would not rely on wire colors.

Well here are the pictures you requested. Just ask and I'll get whatever angle you want or take pictures of whatever you need me to.

http://s1272.photobucket.com/albums/y392/89obd1accord

Now when you say if I carefully lined and matched things up...what do you mean by that? There's a specific polarity on these sensors? I only used the 4g plugs because I couldnt find a 3gee harness with good plugs and because I like the gray plugs over the yellowish white old as hell ones from the 3gee.

Just to clarify: where on the harness did you resolder the ALT signal mentioned in the first post? Also is there Anything else not working as it should, electronic or electrical?(tach,guages , idiot lights etc)
Thanks , anything else you can think of could help someone help you figure this out.

I actually paid very close attention to the two white/red and had to go back during initial body harness install to verify I had them run correctly and I do. The ALT RF and IAT are on proper separate circuits.

After I reconnected the SG2 and started I noticed my fan was on. Umm a weird thing is if I leave the key turnedo and don't start the engine
..the oil pressure idiot light flashes but the gauge reads fine. Everything else seems to work as it should.

[Susanoo]

check with this and read the post

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...=1#post1030003

I read the post man but I'm not at home right now and don't have my obd1 pinouts on hand. I remember soldering two fuel pump relay wires to a single on the conversion harness. I also used new shielded wire for the ckp, not the o2 wires.

[Legend_master]

Alright bare with me if this has been said, cause I did not read all the replies to this. As far as the TPS, your car should almost die, or die for sure if you disconnect the TPS. That and the IAT sound like wiring issues. When I did the second b-swap I had a similar issue with some sensors. Ended up running wires directly from the ecu out my window and right to the sensor. Helped me to track down a short in part of the "factory" harness I used. You have 3 options with the ELD, 1) swap in an obd1 fusebox 2)chip the ecu and turn it off 3)find a Jdm obd1 ecu since they do not use ELDs. You can also disable the o2 sensor if you don't want to wire that up.

[Susanoo]

Alright bare with me if this has been said, cause I did not read all the replies to this. As far as the TPS, your car should almost die, or die for sure if you disconnect the TPS. That and the IAT sound like wiring issues. When I did the second b-swap I had a similar issue with some sensors. Ended up running wires directly from the ecu out my window and right to the sensor. Helped me to track down a short in part of the "factory" harness I used. You have 3 options with the ELD, 1) swap in an obd1 fusebox 2)chip the ecu and turn it off 3)find a Jdm obd1 ecu since they do not use ELDs. You can also disable the o2 sensor if you don't want to wire that up.

Im about to probe the voltages for TPS at all the connection points next to the ECU. Im also looking for someone local that can reburn my chip with ELD and O2 disabled at least for testing purposes since so many people have suggested it, If I cant find someone local I'll get someone else on ebay to do it for 20 bucks.

Maybe at some point I'll swap in a newer fuse box but I dont feel like doing all that. It would be easier if you could just pull the ELD out.

I also took the cat off and it didnt make much difference, cant remember if I mentioned that or not.

[Susanoo]

Alright so I probed some sensors and checked some wires for continuity and things seem fine. O2 has a solid connection from a to b.
Voltages at cold, not running...as read from the ECU side

TPS - .50
IAT - 3.17
ECT -3.20
Map - 2.99 (engine off)

[Legend_master]

I know it's a pain in the ass, but try bypassing the wires completely. During testing my shorted wires were showing proper numbers due to them splicing with another wire. Once I tried to run the car, it would give me a cel. Since it is only 3 wires, it should not take to long.

[A18A]

a bit late on the ELD thing, but in its place you can wire a IMA sensor (or a TPS, probably turned around halfway) in its place to the ECU to trick it into thinking it actually has an ELD. that got rid of my ELD error when i did my h22 swap

[Susanoo]

I know it's a pain in the ass, but try bypassing the wires completely. During testing my shorted wires were showing proper numbers due to them splicing with another wire. Once I tried to run the car, it would give me a cel. Since it is only 3 wires, it should not take to long.

Well no it wouldnt take long but what keeps bugging me is that I never had a tps code after fi conversion...even with sg2 being misconnected. I'll try it though and see what happens. Maybe I just have a couple bad sensors. They are just jy parts after all.

a bit late on the ELD thing, but in its place you can wire a IMA sensor (or a TPS, probably turned around halfway) in its place to the ECU to trick it into thinking it actually has an ELD. that got rid of my ELD error when i did my h22 swap

I've got a potentiometer laying around but I'd rather wire one in. I was reading last night about the IACV and all sorts of sensors play a role in how far it opens and closes. Brake and clutch switches, eld, ect, etc. I would rather tear an eld out but for now I think I'll get a chip with it disabled. However while waiting I do have a spare tps I could trick the ecu with.

[Susanoo]

Okay so its been a while but I messed around some more and I've got a new TPS on there with .50 on the red, 5 on the yellow and nothing on ground. The code 7 is gone and it seems like it might be better however after letting it warm up, shutting it off and rechecking the codes....code 6 an 10 are still there...even after swapping for my old IAT sensor...I've got a LLT replacement on the ECT from autozone so i'll try that again since finding the misconnected SG2.