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Thread: is my ecu fried ? need help !!

  1. #1
    LX User 247shuer247's Avatar
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    Exclamation is my ecu fried ? need help !!

    ok guys so i need your help

    when i get in my car and turn on the battery i hear the incredibly loud
    buzzing noise under the hood. coming from multiple locations. sounds like it could be coming from the pgm-fi box and the fuse box.

    also all of my lights on the dashboard come on and stay on nd my rpm meter shoots up to 3000 rpms

    im scared to even try and turn it on i dont want to fry anything.
    one of the members suggested i disconnect my idle control valve but i wanna get some second opinions first

    my ecu took a hard hit a few days ago which is why i suspect it is the ecu

    has anybody else had a similar problems let me know thanks guys
    ''YOU MAY LOSE MONEY CHASING WOMEN BUT You will no doubt end up broke as a mothafucka chasing cars''




  2. #2

    Re: is my ecu fried ? need help !!

    I suspect a bad battery to chassis ground. follow the negative cable to the body. try cleaning up the mounting points.
    i don't think the IAC has anything to do with it.
    Eric
    3geez member since October 12, 2000
    "All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau

  3. #3
    2.0Si User ShyBoyCA6's Avatar
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    Re: is my ecu fried ? need help !!

    Car wouldnt turn on with the ecu fried. Do what pos carb posted and post back what happens after. All the lights are on? Check for codes that may lead to 3k rpm.

  4. #4
    SEi User gp02a0083's Avatar
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    Re: is my ecu fried ? need help !!

    what do you mean by a hard hit? I agree with POOS carb as well, i would suspect the battery. The buzzing sounds could be the mechanical relays trying to work from not getting enough voltage. Many people think ecu's are made of glass or something, they are for the most part through hole components and are fairly sturdy

    1989 Accord Lx-i hatchback (current DD project)
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  5. #5

    Re: is my ecu fried ? need help !!

    1. get a volt meter.
    2. turn on parking lights. check voltage at the battery posts (make sure you're on the battery posts, not the cable terminals)
    3. if less than 12v recharge and recheck. if voltage is ok go to step 4
    4. Ground check: check voltage between positive battery terminal and chassis bare metal. if voltage is significantly lower you have bad/corroded connections on the negative. if voltage stays close to original value check between the batt positive and negative to the valve cover bolt. if voltage drops you have a bad engine ground strap.

    5. Positive check: check voltage between battery negative and positive on main fuse. If battery voltage is significantly lower you have corroded positive terminals.
    Eric
    3geez member since October 12, 2000
    "All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau

  6. #6

    Re: is my ecu fried ? need help !!

    there is no code that will cause 3000 rpm. when you have bad grounds all the power tries to find it's way through whatever it can, like relays and gauges
    Eric
    3geez member since October 12, 2000
    "All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau

  7. #7
    LX User 247shuer247's Avatar
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    Re: is my ecu fried ? need help !!

    just an update guys i found the problem it was a grounding failure lol.

    so the car starts right up and idles a little high
    but my main concern is should the ecu lights blink even when nothing is wrong ?

    because i wanted to check the ecu codes but no led lights flashed ??

    is there something wrong with this ? should i look into it ?
    ''YOU MAY LOSE MONEY CHASING WOMEN BUT You will no doubt end up broke as a mothafucka chasing cars''


  8. #8
    LX User 247shuer247's Avatar
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    Re: is my ecu fried ? need help !!

    Quote Originally Posted by POS carb View Post
    1. get a volt meter.
    2. turn on parking lights. check voltage at the battery posts (make sure you're on the battery posts, not the cable terminals)
    3. if less than 12v recharge and recheck. if voltage is ok go to step 4
    4. Ground check: check voltage between positive battery terminal and chassis bare metal. if voltage is significantly lower you have bad/corroded connections on the negative. if voltage stays close to original value check between the batt positive and negative to the valve cover bolt. if voltage drops you have a bad engine ground strap.

    5. Positive check: check voltage between battery negative and positive on main fuse. If battery voltage is significantly lower you have corroded positive terminals.
    thanks for this it really help alot

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