No start situation, 1400 miles on OBD1.

[Susanoo]

I've thrown this around the facebook group but its time I posted it here for more ideas and maybe even a for sure fix. A little background, I performed what appeared to be a successful OBD1 conversion, I decided to drive around for a while fixing small things here and there and working on what codes were stored...however some things came up in life and I was distracted from the codes and continued to drive it until the junkyard dizzy's shaft seal failed and oil filled the dizzy. One reman dizzy later it worked great for a day, then a day later I started seeing the same things. I freaked and pulled the dizzy cap thinking the same thing had happened. Nothing. So i drove it around trying to see if a part would go or something would stick out more but nothing until it died and I parked it. It wouldnt start at all, so I started going through things and pulled codes, originally it was saying codes 6, 7, 10, and 20. I went through some more things and found the ALT charging signal broken off from a bad solder connection. I soldered that back, no change, so I got told to check the ECU. Once I pulled it out I knew it couldnt be helping but hoped and really thought it may be the issue. I got a ECU from a fellow 3geez member named Gio. I socketed my chip and plugged it all up, no change, no start at all. I started tracking down wires and checking circuits. The ECT circuit seems to be correct checking by schematics. I have replaced the sensor twice and no change. Now I've honestly had a code 6 since I did the EFI conversion but couldnt figure it out then either. So I have no idea why its throwing code 6. However I have done a wire tuck and im really starting to wonder if I crossed some wires somewhere or connected like wires when I shouldnt have. Since I swapped the ECU I pulled codes and I've currently got code 6, 10, and 20. Still a no start situation. I've got spark and fuel pressure primes to 30 psi and holds during starting.

Now the current suggestions stand at something wrong with the injectors firing (untested officially, however tried a 12 volt test light and only managed to get it to light up by finding the hot side of the plug. OR the main relay...which could be possible since I got it out of a junkyard 89 prelude.

However Im really tired of guessing and its been parked for 2 weeks. I need my car back.

[89T]

Did you check your ecu grounds? Sg2 (d22)controls the grounds for the coolant and intake air temp sensor. The tps, and oxygen sensor grounds are on the same loop. This may cause a no start condition.

[Susanoo]

Ok then theres no way I would have crossed or otherwise misconnected the sensor grounds because they seem to be two different colors and I traced the sensor ground between the intake air and coolant temp sensors but thinking now ...I cant remember if I checked that back to the ecu...Let me go check this real quick...

I like where this is going now...Thanks for the reply 89T.

EDIT: Its sprinkling rain right now...Im waiting for it to stop..

[89T]

My book shows green/white. No problem.glad i can help.
As for the eld. I turned that off in the tuning software.

[89T]

The wiring On the adapter harness should be obd1 (d22) to obd0 (c12)

[Legend_master]

I don't know if the obd1 swap uses the factory fuel pump relay, if it does I would try resoldering that first. They are very problematic.

[Rendon LX-i]

check your ecu ground like jerry said. check main relay an spark fuel of course. sounds like a ecu problem or fuel pump. i had a no start having a shitty fuel pump.

[89T]

So how far did we get?

Another thought. Make sure the group of grounds on the intake manifold are good.

[Susanoo]

So sorry im just getting back, i've been busy with work and general day to day issues. ANYWAY....I do have news, I found that I had incorrectly swapped a wire between the ECT and the sub cooling fan switch? right?...well I traced it back this time and connected it correctly, I even put another plug on it since the wire was breaking off at the silicone. I traced back the IAT and I dont really know what I did...but its not connected to SG2, I found a connection to it from the wire I had connected to the sub cooling fan switch...so here in a few im gonna label the injectors and hopefully pull the harness out enough that I can visually trace it back...

And I cant start it right now anyway because the battery ran down from sitting for so long and starting and starting and starting...so I'll know in an hour.

[Susanoo]

So it runs again! I also found out that I had put the new cam key on backwards and after flipping it around it started up a little slow and smoked a little at first but after it warmed up it was fine...Its still kinda skippy at the throttle though and im wondering if thats not the TPS that needs to be readjusted. I also need to properly time the ignition with a light and that will help more. All in all I guess its just adjustments from now but hopefully continued help from you guys will get this thing running better then ever. Im also thinking about getting another idle air control valve since it hums with the key turned on...

[gfrg88]

Awesome! Glad you got her back up and running!


A nice street tune would probably do you wonders

[Susanoo]

Yea it probly would. Any idea why the idle drops real low and bounces back up and down?

[Susanoo]

Yea something still isnt right somewhere, I checked again and I have codes 7, 10, and 20. I know what needs to be done to fix the code 10, I messed up the engine harness somehow...

I checked on the TPS and I got between 6 and 8 volts on the red wire...which is apparently way off.

[Rendon LX-i]

Daaamn that is not good .sounds like you have a short or voltage in the wrong wire you should only have 5 volts

[Susanoo]

Lets just correct that whole sleepy post....

I've been told and read that the red wire should only be getting .50 with the key on and throttle closed...Where should I be finding this 5 volts?...

[Susanoo]

So I messed around, swapped the dizzy and when I did I got code 14 and so I swapped IAC valves and its idling much better but its still got the fluttery throttle...

Just keeping people updated :P I havent had time to pull the harness yet...hopefully soon.

[Susanoo]

I probed the yellow and red wires on the tps and found exactly 5.01 volts on yellow and 7.71 volts at closed on red. I'm just confused cause if I had crossed a wire I should have had this symptom on.first start..

[Susanoo]

Did you check your ecu grounds? Sg2 (d22)controls the grounds for the coolant and intake air temp sensor. The tps, and oxygen sensor grounds are on the same loop. This may cause a no start condition.

So let me get this straight... ECT, IAT, TPS, and O2 are all on SG2?

Btw im still using the one wire oxygen sensor...so I dont have a ground coming off it.

I've got the harness out now fixing things up and checking things out and I've found that the ECT is actually on its own two pins. So im assuming what I need to do is connect the other grounds to that wire and thats what im going to do since you said all these sensors are on the same sensor ground.

[Susanoo]

Ok I went through the harness and fixed the sg2 problem and all codes are gone except the code 20. However theres still a flutter in the throttle and it wont pull until like 4-5k rpms, then it damn near throws you to the seat.

[gfrg88]

Reason why it's probably bogging down like that is your o2. Fix, or disable it and I'm sure it will pull a ton smoother. The ELD, well I don't know the fix for that, since I disabled it...

[Susanoo]

New O2 sensor too man. I damn near have all new sensors with less then 5000 miles on them.

I got a local guy that I've been keeping updated and he said today that he would have to look at it to figure out whats going on and said that its a weird but typical honda thing...idunno.

[stat1K]

i'm really not digging this new forum style but anywho, the tps voltage should be .50 or close to at closed throttle, then open the throttle all the way should be the 5v. the bog sounds like when my tps was loosening itself because of the screws. how is yours attached? replacement m6 or the original sheer bolts?

[Susanoo]

i'm really not digging this new forum style but anywho, the tps voltage should be .50 or close to at closed throttle, then open the throttle all the way should be the 5v. the bog sounds like when my tps was loosening itself because of the screws. how is yours attached? replacement m6 or the original sheer bolts?

Yea I liked the classic look to go with a forum about a classic car haha but yea anyway, after I fixed the SG2 in the engine harness I reproped the TPS and recalibrated to .501 volts and I used the original sheer bolts but i want to get better ones. Its on pretty tight. It wont move after you tighten it, I tried.

[Susanoo]

None of you veterans are going to chime in? I want my stuff fixed for Import Alliance and besides that I need it for work and personal...this is my daily driver too

[89T]

there is no eld fix. You need to disable it. The eld is located in the fuse box of the of the civic. You can try there. you probably need to install a 4 wire o2.