Okay so I did the efi conversion on my 86dx and engine wise it's great. Turned on first crank. But when I got to the electrical I hit one problem. The front ends lights aren't working. I've checked every fuse, relay, connection and I've hit a light tester to see what's not getting power and on the headlights 2/3 connections are getting power. I'm stumped!!!! Help!!!!!
The 3 pins on the headlight connector are high beam power, low beam power and ground. You should only have power to one pin with the lights on. When you turn on the high beams the power should move to a different pin. the third needs to be checked for continuity to ground.
Well when I checked them I had power to 2 pins at the same time. Is that normal or is this a sign of a faulty ground connection?
check the earths that bolt to the chassis by the headlights as one may be not connected
I've checked it and they are connected. I'm in a bind right now. I need to get this driving already. I hate to do it but I'm gonna have to get an electrical guy to check it out.
You sure the headlight switch isn't defective?
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Not completely sure. Unfortunately. How do I check if its still work? My headlight motors aren't working either.
did you plug the control box under the dash for them back in after putting the car back together?
Yeah I started with the engine since I took it out to retorque and clean it. Then added the pgm fi and hooked up the engine harness. Dropped it in. Next was the main harness. I connected all the front end stuff then connected the dash box. After that I put the dash in and all my gauges work fine. The turn signals are fast like if I have a bad bulb but they still work. I'm stumped man.
If you are getting power at the headlight connector I suspect ground issue, check continuity to ground on the ground wire
If there is no power check underhood fuse #19 (40a) this provides power to the combination switch
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
How does one check continuity to a ground?
Test between the ground connector and bare metal on the chassis somewhere.
I'm taking my fenders off to make sure all grounds are connected. Rain in la did have me rushing but I'm getting a multimeter tester and checking it all out tomorrow. Thanks for your help everyone. Hopefully ill have it driving this week. Thanks 3geezers!!!!
If you're getting power through the high beam and low beam side at the same time, that would seem to indicate a switch problem to me. You should only be getting power through one side at a time, depending on the position of the switch. At least that's what it looks like to me on the diagram. I'm not great at reading them, though. It's also possible that the wires are shorting inside the harness somewhere. *Gulp*
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Well that problem got fixed already. Switch position is only letting power through one side at a time now. The short in the harness is what I'm scared of. I hope it's not that.
Since they are getting power can I just cut the ground from the lights and ground it to the chassis?
I think I found the problem!!!!! Ahhhhhh!!!!!! Super excited!!!!
I noticed on my bs block there is sensor for what I would believe is the temperature but the harness I got from an lxi with the bt block it doesn't have the connection for it. My computer blinks 6 times indicating the thermostat sensors. One had a clipped wire. Does anyone know if this is the temperature reader?
Last edited by dgon86; 02-05-2013 at 02:45 PM.
You should fix the CEL, but I don't think it has anything to do with your headlights.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
My CEL isn't on. The ecu is just sending the thermostat code because of a cut wire. Fixed that. Head lights and retractor motors turn signals are working now. I'm thinking my brake sensor is broke. Getting a new one. But the temp sensor. Is it located on the thermostat? There's no connection from the main harness to the sensor on the back of my block. Main concern now is. Don't want it to over heat while I drive it.
I'm not sure what your setup looks like, but on a factory LX-i, the ECT sensor (AKA TW sensor) is on the coolant neck that houses the thermostat. I can't remember what color it is, but it's the one closest to the head. Don't worry about it overheating because of that sensor. It sends signal to the ECU to adjust mixture according to coolant temp. When it goes out you get hard starts when the engine is warm.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Yeah I finally turned it on and the thermostat sensors are the temperature readers. The temp gauge worked after I set them up. And my hunting idle stopped after also. She is sounding beautiful. Just have to set up the interior and she is good. Weekend I hope she's driving.
Dang it. I'm getting code 13 from the ecu. I spaced on the atmospheric pressure sensor. Any clue to how this affects the car?
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