How hard is it to replace the Waterpump in a 3gee? Lxi hatch. What are the step by step procedures and is there a already a description of how to on the forum can i get a link? Pictures would be plus
How hard is it to replace the Waterpump in a 3gee? Lxi hatch. What are the step by step procedures and is there a already a description of how to on the forum can i get a link? Pictures would be plus
do you have the shop manual?
if not here ya go
1989 USDM Honda Accord Factory Service Manual
this gives you diagrams and everything.
Nope, and thanks a bunch!
It's a very easy job
1st loosen the water pump pulley bolts (do not remove, just crack them loose, it is easier with the belt on)
2nd loosen the alternator mounting bolts and tensioner, move it out of the way.
If you are planning on replacing the belt you will need to remove the power steering and A/C belts.
remove water pump mounting bolts. Some may be longer than others, keep an eye on what hole they come out of. If you forget, drop the bolts into the new pump and make sure all the bolts have about the same protrusion on the back side
Make sure to clean off any old gasket material
Remove the pulley and mount on the new pump, there should also be a shim in there, put it on the new pump the same way it came off the old pump
reassembly is the reverse.
Fill with coolant and bleed (bleeder is on the thermostat housing)
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
Doesn't sound to hard. On to replacing the old water pump lol, thanks bro!
With that job, be a wise to replace the timing belt, timing belt idler/tensioner pulley since your in there. I see tensioner pulleys go bad & stuff goes bad quick a lot of times with other types of Honda interference engines.If you have the cash, it would be good time to replace the front crankshaft seal, little more, oil pump.
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 02-11-2013 at 08:59 PM.
How much harder would it be to replace all that? And cost estimate?
You basically need to remove the crankshaft pulley & front cover, not much more work. The timing belt kit including tensioner runs about $80-$110 depending where you get it. The front seal is around $7-$12. Put a little grease on the nose of the crank before you install the crank seal.
Sounds legit, going to look more into that!
Many shops will replace the water pump and all front seals when they replace the timing belt. You have everything open anyway, it just makes sense to do it all together. On this board, we recommend replacing the oil pump seals as well because if they get old and hard, you can lose oil pressure and burn up the engine.
If you choose to replace the water pump only, then be very careful when putting the bolts back in. If you drop one down the timing cover, you'll be disassembling down to the timing belt to get it back out. I wouldn't recommend leaving it in there either. If it gets caught in the timing belt, you could have a real mess on your hands.
It
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Many shops will replace the water pump and all front seals when they replace the timing belt. You have everything open anyway, it just makes sense to do it all together. On this board, we recommend replacing the oil pump seals as well because if they get old and hard, you can lose oil pressure and burn up the engine.
If you choose to replace the water pump only, then be very careful when putting the bolts back in. If you drop one down the timing cover, you'll be disassembling down to the timing belt to get it back out. I wouldn't recommend leaving it in there either. If it gets caught in the timing belt, you could have a real mess on your hands.
Good luck with the repair.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
water pump is hella easy. I got to where I could do it in a half hour or so. Its been a little while, but If I remember right all you have to do is remove the alt belt and then the water pump belt and there are 4 or 5 bolts for the water pump
Nothin' 2 Old Racing
You don't need to do all that....Originally Posted by 88Accord-DX
Most shops and manuals recommend to replace the timing belt etc "while you're in there" but that is for engines with timing-belt driven pumps.
This engine has an external pump, no disassembly required. A timing belt job is another animal.
Last edited by POS carb; 02-13-2013 at 10:48 AM.
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
[QUOTE=POS carb;1117264]It's a very easy job
1st loosen the water pump pulley bolts (do not remove, just crack them loose, it is easier with the belt on)
How can i crack them loose without the pulley moving??? I got two of them but couldn't get the third
Sent from my 5860E using Tapatalk 2
Put a wrench on it and hit the wrench with a hammer, it will break loose. Don't remove the other two bolts until it's loose
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
stI agree, been a while since I messed with one & wasn't thinking about it real hard. Guess I think to hard about all the other Honda & import engines I see them on. My apologies.
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 02-14-2013 at 09:54 PM.
I always put an long extension in the hole of the pully and used it to keep it from moving. There's a spot on the fender and on top of the water pump that works well.
Nothin' 2 Old Racing
If you have the cruise control actuator in the car, I would suggest removing it to get some extra space. I would replace all belts while doing that job.
Overall, an easy job.
If it ain't broke... I fix it!
So these bolts, nuts and what not are getting to be a pain to take off. I got most of them off minus the most top bolt and the bottom two, any suggestions to take those out???
So these bolts, nuts and what not are getting to be a pain to take off. I got most of them off minus the most top bolt and the bottom two, any suggestions to take those out???
Wd-40 OR A Torch. Heat them up and they should come out.
make sure you are using metric sockets, I you need a 10mm socket for the M6 bolt. Almost every bolt and nut on this car is 8,10,12,14,17mm. With those sizes you should be able to remove almost anything (except for the occasional larger 19, 32m etc for major jobs)
Some cheap tools may stretch
If you strip the heads you may have to use an extractor.
A 3/8 is slightly smaller than a 10mm so if you strip an M6 with a 10mm head you may be able to hammer a 3/8 on it to break it loose, throw the stripped bolts away and replace
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
I got it all done! Well almost just got to put in the pulley and belt. Wasn't too bad just stripped
And damaged a nut but got it replaced and off... thank you lord for chisels and hammers!!!!
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