Going to do some maintenance on my 86 si but have a few questions..

[pablo3264]

I'm going to be doing maintenance on my car such as flush and refill new coolant, new thermostat, waterpump+timing belt, oil change, gonna remove intake manifold and clean the EGR port+replace gaskets, replace rotors/brake pads and bleed the system, replace tranny fluid.

Now the questions...

Should I use genuine honda coolant like honda type 2 or will prestone/peak suffice?

Will cleaning the EGR ports under the manifold help my 12 blinks error code for EGR?

Where is the PCV valve for this car? I really have no idea :O

Last but not least... I have been having a buzzing sound near my ECU for the longest time, i'm thinking its a ground issue possibly but not sure. Any clues?

Any help is appreciated.

[RAZR]

I use just regular prestone 50/50 and its fine. But you ABSOLUTLY have to use Honda power steering fluid. DO NOT USE ANYTHING ELSE! It will eat up all your power steering seals.

I would not flush because with you will flush and get rid of all the dirt and little pin hole leaks.

For code 12 its usually the lift sensor that is bad. But you can check to see if the EGR holds vacuum. If it holds vacuum its prolly the lift sensor. Ive had the code 12 on my car for over a year i just live with it because I know its the sensor.

[pablo3264]

I use just regular prestone 50/50 and its fine. But you ABSOLUTLY have to use Honda power steering fluid. DO NOT USE ANYTHING ELSE! It will eat up all your power steering seals.

I would not flush because with you will flush and get rid of all the dirt and little pin hole leaks.

For code 12 its usually the lift sensor that is bad. But you can check to see if the EGR holds vacuum. If it holds vacuum its prolly the lift sensor. Ive had the code 12 on my car for over a year i just live with it because I know its the sensor.

Yeah I have gave vaccum to egr and it stalled the engine so egr is working ok there, but if the ports are clogged wouldnt it not work as it should?

I might get brand new injectors as well for a good price, still debating as I bought these used ones a while ago and I feel they arent doing so well. Parts # for them are FJ267T or looking into remanufactured ones 84212113.

Any big difference between new vs reman injectors?

And my coolant is pretty dirty and mixed with alot of water, I have a lot of new hoses and the radiator is pretty new still. So i think it really needs a good flushing haha.

[Dr_Snooz]

I haven't yet seen any compelling reason to use a more expensive coolant over any other. It's a lot more important that you change it regularly than that you get a specific brand.

I don't think cleaning the channels will fix the code. As I understand it, the CEL flashes based on what's happening electrically with the EGR components. Whether it all actually works is immaterial. I'd follow the troubleshooting sequence in the manual for your code. When the channels clog, you'll fail smog without any codes.

Not sure about the other stuff.

[pablo3264]

I haven't yet seen any compelling reason to use a more expensive coolant over any other. It's a lot more important that you change it regularly than that you get a specific brand.

I don't think cleaning the channels will fix the code. As I understand it, the CEL flashes based on what's happening electrically with the EGR components. Whether it all actually works is immaterial. I'd follow the troubleshooting sequence in the manual for your code. When the channels clog, you'll fail smog without any codes.

Not sure about the other stuff.

Well the big reason I'm doing all this is to Pass smog since I failed just recently. I have no clue in what area to check. I failed in the NoX area, I think I might be running too lean. Since I live in California I have to go to a STAR certified smog station from now on where they check every single dam thing smog related it's ridiculous. Before the test the damn dude had my car just sitting in the cold for about an hour when no other person was on the machine and finally he started her up and put her on the dyno smog machine. Could this be a cause of why I failed? Oh and then the dude tried to sell my a $98 diagnostics fee as if I already said yes...

I also want to test my compression when I get the chance to get some extra cash and rent out a tester. I just want an idea of how good my compression is for peace of mind lol.

If the compression test is well, I'll get some new injectors and other things very soon..... yay financial aid lol.

[Dr_Snooz]

If you're going to a special test station, then you must have gone gross polluter, which means you are way, way over on NOx. If you haven't, I would recommend buying the factory manual from helminc.com so you can use the troubleshooting sequences that are in it. If you can't, then download the one we have on the wiki: 1989 USDM Honda Accord Factory Service Manual. It's for an '89 Accord, which may have differences, but it will get you in the ballpark. Are you carb or FI?

The other thing you have to do is go down to that smog test station and black the tech's eye. If he had run a pre-test before the actual test, then you wouldn't be chatting with the nice folks from the state now. He put you in a world of hurt because of his laziness. You don't want to be doing this STAR testing crap.

[pablo3264]

If you're going to a special test station, then you must have gone gross polluter, which means you are way, way over on NOx. If you haven't, I would recommend buying the factory manual from helminc.com so you can use the troubleshooting sequences that are in it. If you can't, then download the one we have on the wiki: 1989 USDM Honda Accord Factory Service Manual. It's for an '89 Accord, which may have differences, but it will get you in the ballpark. Are you carb or FI?

The other thing you have to do is go down to that smog test station and black the tech's eye. If he had run a pre-test before the actual test, then you wouldn't be chatting with the nice folks from the state now. He put you in a world of hurt because of his laziness. You don't want to be doing this STAR testing crap.

Lol yeah I know fuck that guy haha. I've been reading service bulletins from the past and it says car needs to be driven at least 25 miles for proper operating temps and then Smogged immediately after.

Actually I think California is all STAR test only stations after January 1st of this year. LAME AS SHIT!

For the compression testing, I can a little oil for the wet part of the test in these cars right? I'm just not as used to seeing spark plugs and wires the way they are in these cars lol.

[Dr_Snooz]

The pre-run is just to get the cat up to temp. If it had been cool, you'd have failed on HCs, so don't worry too much about that.

If I were in your shoes, I'd start with the EGR troubleshooting sequence. I think the compression test is a waste of time myself, but it's your car.

[pablo3264]

The pre-run is just to get the cat up to temp. If it had been cool, you'd have failed on HCs, so don't worry too much about that.

If I were in your shoes, I'd start with the EGR troubleshooting sequence. I think the compression test is a waste of time myself, but it's your car.

Oh ok I see thanks and I just wanted to test the compression just to see what this little motor still has in her.

[hondalude86]

I believe there is a write up on this forum for the egr code, but it also sounds lie they are leading you in the right direction. Another option might be to get a new cat and try with that...unless anyone objects...

[Dr_Snooz]

I don't think the cat is his problem but if he wants to test it, here is a thread that describes how: https://www.3geez.com/forum/technical...converter.html

[pablo3264]

I don't think the cat is his problem but if he wants to test it, here is a thread that describes how: https://www.3geez.com/forum/technical...converter.html

Yeah I really doubt its my cat because its brand spankin new and its a direct fit from Magnaflow which is California compliant

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