Cant get ICM out

**Klavier** · 03-17-2013, 03:17 PM

I finally got my girl to give me the car this morning, and I replaced the entire ignition system less the lock cylinder and ICM. I have the ICM, but couldn't get it out of the distributor. Anyone do this before?

***Dr_Snooz*** · 03-17-2013, 05:24 PM

Isn't the module mounted on the firewall in those?

**Klavier** · 03-17-2013, 08:37 PM

That's the ignition coil., I had no problem changing that. The ignition control module is inside the distributor, under the rotor. Small black plastic thing with two quick disconnect terminals on it. There's a 4 toothed black plastic gear on top of it, and I can't get that fucker off. It's stuck on the metal post the rotor sits on. There is a screw in it, but when I undid that the post/distributor internals just spun around and locked in different positions like it would change the firing order. I didn't want to wreck the car so I screwed it back in the stock position and changed the other parts. It seems to run way better, but I want to change the ICM just to make sure the tach bounce stops. Need pics?

***Dr_Snooz*** · 03-19-2013, 07:10 PM

Well, if I'm going to be the only one replying, then yes, let's have pics. I could have sworn the ICM mounted on the firewall though when I swapped a '79 distributor into my '76. I did it to get rid of the points. Oh God how I hate points.

**lostforawhile** · 03-19-2013, 07:16 PM

Originally Posted by Klavier

That's the ignition coil., I had no problem changing that. The ignition control module is inside the distributor, under the rotor. Small black plastic thing with two quick disconnect terminals on it. There's a 4 toothed black plastic gear on top of it, and I can't get that fucker off. It's stuck on the metal post the rotor sits on. There is a screw in it, but when I undid that the post/distributor internals just spun around and locked in different positions like it would change the firing order. I didn't want to wreck the car so I screwed it back in the stock position and changed the other parts. It seems to run way better, but I want to change the ICM just to make sure the tach bounce stops. Need pics?

you wrap the ends of two flat head screwdrivers with electrical tape, then very very carefully pry it up a little at a time, make sure not to lose the little roll pin, it only goes back on one way,
But don't put it upside down,

**PDXAccord79** · 03-19-2013, 08:11 PM

On my 79 the ICM is a little black box mounted on the firewall that plugs into the harness. If you are prying the ignition reluctor off then you're trying to get to the distributor pick up.

**Klavier** · 03-27-2013, 06:23 PM

'76 - '79 had a different design than '80 - '89 when it came to ignition. The '80's have a small ICM located inside the distributor.

1980 - 89 design: 1980-1989 Honda Accord Ignition Control Unit - Engine Electrical - Beck Arnley 80-89 Accord Ignition Control Unit - 5963-05015921 - PartsGeek

**lostscotiaguy** · 03-29-2013, 10:16 PM

Hopefully this will help: This is from an 81 accord...

Ignition, whole chapter, 1981 Accord - Imgur

This should be able to walk you through whatever you need...I've recently rebuilt mine so if you want any other advice feel free to ask.

**lostforawhile** · 03-30-2013, 07:36 AM

Its pretty much identical to removing the reluctor on the the Hitachi dizzy all the way through the third generation, for a note I ran a pickup from an 81 civic on my 3g for years with no problems, they probably all interchange

**Demon1024** · 02-18-2015, 01:00 AM

Ty Ty Ty... I always tried to punch the pin out first. Just so it's clear to anyone else who gets here... Punching the pin down is impossible. Lube it up and use this screwdriver method.

Now I have 5 dizzy's I can repair