Parasitic draw on battery

[88Accord-DX]

I just want to let anyone know looking for a draw on their battery. I hooked up my DVM & pulled every fuse (without screws) & couldn't find any drop in amperage. I could hear a click noise jumping my leads around. It was the seat belt retractor in the driver door that killed one battery. I put this diagnoses off for too long. Hope this is helpful in a future search. D

[zenapup]

I just want to let anyone know looking for a draw on their battery. I hooked up my DVM & pulled every fuse (without screws) & couldn't find any drop in amperage. I could hear a click noise jumping my leads around. It was the seat belt retracter in the driver door that killed one battery. I put this diagnoses off for too long. Hope this is helpful in a future search. D

Yep, this is exactly what was causing mine when I fixed it two years ago, definitely not what I expected to be killing the battery overnight

[Legend_master]

I second that, I had the exact same problem as well. My drivers side was draining my battery over night. I just pulled the door panel off and removed the plug to the retractor.

[2oodoor]

Isn't that part still warrentied by Honda?

[88Accord-DX]

Isn't that part still warrentied by Honda?

I doubt it, but would be nice to know. Might call the local dealer soon & find out. As old as these cars are the part is probably out of stock or discontinued. I done the same thing as Legend & pulled the door panel back & unplugged both connectors on the retractor. It pulls .355 amps when it shorts out internally. I would have to either disconnect my battery at night or charge the battery every other day... So glad them days are over with now.

[Dr_Snooz]

Thank you for this thread. I suspect I have the same problem. I gather that it's specific to 88-89 coupes where the seatbelts are in the doors? I'm a little concerned about disabling part of the seat belt, but looking at the manual, it appears that the electrical is there simply to keep the belts from locking while you have the door open. So long as they lock in a crash, it's all good.

[Legend_master]

Thank you for this thread. I suspect I have the same problem. I gather that it's specific to 88-89 coupes where the seatbelts are in the doors? I'm a little concerned about disabling part of the seat belt, but looking at the manual, it appears that the electrical is there simply to keep the belts from locking while you have the door open. So long as they lock in a crash, it's all good.

Idk, I've yanked the seatbelt as a test, and it does no lock. Defiantly related to the "caution do not unlock seatbelts" lol.

[2oodoor]

What contols the activation? Is there a sensor and where is it...

[G. White]

Oh! This thread really hits home with me. For the last 2 years I've been battling this problem. My wife accidently slammed the passenger side seat belt buckle in the door when closing it. The next day I got a "door open" light on the instrument cluster along with the seat belt chime/buzzer once I got over 15mph. I adjusted the door striker and everything was good. On really hot days the door latch would expand just enough to make the light and buzzer come back. Anyways, a couple seasons, dead batteries, parasitic draw tests later- I've found that the door latch itself is bad. The door closes, latches and there is some kind of electrical cam that comes over center and sends the signal to turn off the light in the instrument cluster. My cam is all jacked up so therefore my door latch is bad. The only place I think I can find one is the junkyard.

[Legend_master]

This is what I disconnected.

[Dr_Snooz]

What contols the activation? Is there a sensor and where is it...

I don't know about 3g's specifically, but generally, seat belt lock is controlled by a weighted pendulum. When the pendulum is vertical, it doesn't (isn't supposed to) lock. If the pendulum swings away from vertical, like under hard braking, a skid or a crash, it locks. It's a very elegant design really. I can't imagine any sane engineer designing seat belts that require electric power to lock. That's just asking for a class action. I would guess that disconnecting the electrical is just fine.

Edit: the pendulum is usually encased in the retractor mechanism somewhere. I've never taken seat belts apart enough to find one though.

[Dr_Snooz]

Oh! This thread really hits home with me. For the last 2 years I've been battling this problem. My wife accidently slammed the passenger side seat belt buckle in the door when closing it. The next day I got a "door open" light on the instrument cluster along with the seat belt chime/buzzer once I got over 15mph. I adjusted the door striker and everything was good. On really hot days the door latch would expand just enough to make the light and buzzer come back. Anyways, a couple seasons, dead batteries, parasitic draw tests later- I've found that the door latch itself is bad. The door closes, latches and there is some kind of electrical cam that comes over center and sends the signal to turn off the light in the instrument cluster. My cam is all jacked up so therefore my door latch is bad. The only place I think I can find one is the junkyard.

You reminded me of this thread: https://www.3geez.com/forum/how/75391...mb-switch.html

The door switches are known to have some issues. I wonder if a parasitic draw from the seat belts is a symptom of that. Maybe I'll try rebuilding my door switches to see if it helps with the draw problem.

[MessyHonda]

same thing happen to my 88 lx-i coupe. it would kill my optima redtop

[88Accord-DX]

My door pins are shot! The latch has been hitting the door jam & probably caused the draw. That mechanism in the door is toast.
Now the seat belt light stays on cause the two connectors are disconnected at the seat belt retractor in the door. Anyone know which wires to jump to fool the dash light?

[Legend_master]

My door pins are shot! The latch has been hitting the door jam & probably caused the draw. That mechanism in the door is toast.
Now the seat belt light stays on cause the two connectors are disconnected at the seat belt retractor in the door. Anyone know which wires to jump to fool the dash light?

I have to constantly adjust my latch to catch the door right. Probably once a month or so, I've put shims in the door to raise. Did not last long, with all the seatbelt crap these doors way a lot.

[Dr_Snooz]

I unplugged my seat belt retractors and my parasitic drain is solved. Thank you! It had become a big nuisance in the last few weeks, so I'm in your debt.

I had a CJM with all the seat belt warning lights and buzzers in my car years ago. I think it involved unplugging the connectors under the seat and disabling the lights by the rear view mirror in my coupe.

That's not exactly helpful, I know.

[tipo2009]

I don't know about 3g's specifically, but generally, seat belt lock is controlled by a weighted pendulum. When the pendulum is vertical, it doesn't (isn't supposed to) lock. If the pendulum swings away from vertical, like under hard braking, a skid or a crash, it locks. It's a very elegant design really. I can't imagine any sane engineer designing seat belts that require electric power to lock. That's just asking for a class action. I would guess that disconnecting the electrical is just fine.

Edit: the pendulum is usually encased in the retractor mechanism somewhere. I've never taken seat belts apart enough to find one though.

Help me.How to make a working seat belts without electricity???

[Dr_Snooz]

The safety feature of the seat belts is mechanical only. In our cars, there are a variety of electric sensors attached to the seat belt. They require electricity to function, but the basic operation of the belt is mechanical and needs no electricity.

[tipo2009]

The safety feature of the seat belts is mechanical only. In our cars, there are a variety of electric sensors attached to the seat belt. They require electricity to function, but the basic operation of the belt is mechanical and needs no electricity.

I presently belts disconnected from electricity, and they do not work.
If you suddenly pull the belt it is not blocked.
What do I do?

[Keachman1]

Try pulling on the seat belt when braking hard and see if it locks. Like Dr snooz said, they have an internal pendulum that locks when braking or crashing. Braking is easier to test.

[tipo2009]

Try pulling on the seat belt when braking hard and see if it locks. Like Dr snooz said, they have an internal pendulum that locks when braking or crashing. Braking is easier to test.

I abruptly pull the strap and it is not blocked.
And what kind of pendulum How does he look?

[Dr_Snooz]

The belts are designed to lock only during hard braking, cornering or a crash. You'll have to test them under those circumstances. Preferably the first two.

[tipo2009]

The belts are designed to lock only during hard braking, cornering or a crash. You'll have to test them under those circumstances. Preferably the first two.

Thanks!

[lostforawhile]

all seatbelts are required to be able to lock without electricity, the ones that come attached to the doors also have additional tensioners, these are what causes issues with parasitic draw

[Dr_Snooz]

The electricity is there to make sure that the belts don't lock when you have the doors open. In reality, they don't really do anything at all.