OK i heard in the twin turbo page that you can put one of those turbos in our car if you take out their stuff and put it in ours? I'm not too sure how you could do that though? could anyone elaborate?
OK i heard in the twin turbo page that you can put one of those turbos in our car if you take out their stuff and put it in ours? I'm not too sure how you could do that though? could anyone elaborate?
- Col Jack O'Neal - Stargate sg-1."If you were paying attention DANIEL you'd know the Nintendo's pass threw everything!"
turbos are pretty generic, and since you have to make a custom manifold to turbo our cars, ANY turbo could fit, provided there is room under the hood, and you had the right fitting/adapter. although chances are if you set it up for a DSM t25/14b that you would need a different fitting for a saab turbo. make any sense?
and please correct me if i am way off base, i am only starting to learn about the whole turbo thing!
Ur right bob. from reading all the stuff from Home made turbo.com webpage and talking to Jeff Frank (the dude from the site). its pretty clear u can put any turbo up there in ur car with just the right fittings and ur done.
Two probles with a A20 motor.
1) No off the shelf turbo manifold for us.
2) Not much of a strong motor
I dont think our motor can handle any larger boost than like 8 to 10 psi. But again, i am not sure on the numbers, Talk to Justin he would know it.
U need an engine management system so that u wont blow up ur motor. i dont know how much they are gonna run u up. BUt its not gonna be alot considering if ur planning to get the turbos from the junk off of a car.
Look into how much boost the turbo's run with the stock configuration on the car and what kinda engine they came with. The most i have seen on the Volvo are small ones that spool up real fast for low end power and torque. U can even get the ones from a nissan and see how they fix up. U also need to do custom downpipe and route the exhaust under ur front cross member.
hmm, i was wondering how the exhaust needed to be changed!
well justin is running well over 20lbs of boost, but he is FAAAAR from stock.
i think i am gonna stick to 8-9 psi. but i am gonna do a rebuild with 8.5:1 forged pistonshopefully thats good enough to run 8-9 psi...
if you are going to rebuild with forged pistons you should be able to run more than just 8-9 psi. i am guessing may be 15psi.
I think barebone honda engine only can take 8-9 psi.
Alex.
yep, sleeve the heads and get a better head if u can find it. For turbo REBUILDING THE MOTOR is a must, no questions asked. Get the parts, give ur motor to the shop for rebuild, get it back, bolt ur turbo on it, and dyno it. U should always dyno a motor before it can go into a car. Its not a must, but a better way to tune ur engine than having it in the car and fibbling around.
I think u need to get a better crankshaft and flywheel. Talk to Justin he can give u a lotta insights.
My advise: Ditch the A20 motor, go with an engine swap, get a turbo. U will be happier with that kinda set up and not fear about 13 year old motor crackin.
[edited by jims86lxihb. changed "Lost to Ditch"]
Why do our engines suck so much?
Performance Modz: Short Ram Air Intake, Custom Exhaust w/o Cat & Resonator, Cherry Bomb Turbo Muffler, Accel Coil, Removed AC
Other Modz: Clear Blinkers, Purple Calipers, Accord Emblem On Dash, Winking Headlights
Ok first you don't sleeve heads....you sleeve the bores the head sits on. Next If you wanted to run 1- 3 psi.....you will need turbo, turbo manifold, oil lines, and a fuel/air guage and adjustable fpr (to tune for the extra air) and custom pipes....optional are fuel and boost pressure gauges. 4psi - 8psi ....as mentioned above plus An inline fuel pump, MSD ignition plus their boost timing master, boost and fuel guages mandatory at this point, intercooler, more custom piping, BOV, ( i haven't mentioned wastegate at all cause i'm assuming your turbo has it integrated), and a FMU. Some might say you need bigger fuel injectors at around 6-8psi but if you crank them fuel pressures up (haha) you will get away with it for a litte while till you kill your lines and injectors with excessive pressure. Above them psi you will need a nice turbo, a even nicer intercooler, big fuel injectors and forged pistons with stout rods and anything that is ported and polished is a plus. Also at this point you might consider going with an aftermarket ecu to alleviate all the piggyback fuel management units
Last edited by jteuton; 11-01-2002 at 12:40 PM.
In the end...it doesn't even matter.
88 Lxi, 5spd swap w/ Aasco 8lb flywheel/Cai,AccelCoil,NologyWires,SilverstoneSparks/DC421,ColtCam,Remachined Head&Tb...NitrousWorks 40shot
sounds like it's not really worth all the hastle to find parts from a junk yard from a different 4 banger. I thought we wouldn't have to go to that far of an extreme because those cars are running turbos stock. I just figured ours sort of could to.
- Col Jack O'Neal - Stargate sg-1."If you were paying attention DANIEL you'd know the Nintendo's pass threw everything!"
They can, if you take the right way of doing it, and do the build up that way. Turbo'ing is not a slap it on affair for any car. You find someone who says it is, and they have most likely either not turbo'ed anything, don't know what they are talking about, or blow up engines on a regular basis and don't know why.
Anything can be turbo'ed, if done properly. Oh, and as to resleeving a A20, why are you doing this exactly? Sleeving in Honda engines is done with iron sleeves to help the aluminum block withsand the boost, but A20's are iron blocks. See?
I am the wrath of the server you curse and the demon of the directory you cry about - making life hell for users, one deleted file at a time.
you think i could run 15 psi with a rebuild and forged pistons? that sounds like a recipe for disaster to me! (not that i have any idea...) well as long as its SUPER safe to run 8-9 with a rebuild and 8.5:1 pistons... i will be ok...
I run 18-23 psi on JE 8.5:1 pistons, shotpinned and polished crank and rods. Everything else about the internals are stock, including the head. I had the head rebuilt with all new parts, but the cam and valves, plus the springs are all stock. As far as the new set-up goes, dunno how the head will hand the power, I know the rods will be fine as long as everything is inspected once in a while and I keep the detonation down to a minimum. But with the huge injectors, new intake manifold, new computer system, I think I will be fine..
jeeez. so how much did those other internal mods cost you, and were they TOTALLY custom or not?
would you say that 8-9psi is safe with a rebuild and pistons ONLY. if i want to make sure the car doesnt blow up. and then 15 could be pulled off if i had adequete supporting mods to the turbo system? (ie FMIC, blah blah blah....)
also at what boost levels would i need bigger injectors/fuel pump/fpr/>2.25" exhaust/ect?
im kidna lost....whats the deal with putting a turbo in? i could get my hands on a SAAB 900s turbo......buuuutttt.....what else do i need? and i have a stock carb engine? could anyone else me out before i do anything stupid or waste my time gettting the turbo outa the SAAB.....help? explan it to me like im the retard i am
-Travis-
read the section about it in the faq, there is a lot involved in turboing your car, especially since you are carbed, you would prolly need to convert to FI before you started something like this...![]()
Well I don't seee any point in a better flywheel at that stage, maybe lighten and balance fot high boost. Also when is it necessary to upgrade fuel pump. Cause if ya check this link out this guy is runnin 15psi with stock pump. Not to mention his system seems preety do able ! I found it interesting... its posted in the off topic by SITE - hope ya don't mind(smuf) I think u need to get a better crankshaft and flywheel.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...1872407252&rd=1
89 efi conversion
17" katana, lude arms, full 2" exhaust/hollowed cat, Ractive intake, centerforce dual friction, msd coil/wires
89 efi conversion
17" katana, lude arms, full 2" exhaust/hollowed cat, Ractive intake, centerforce dual friction, msd coil/wires
sorry for bein a post whore just tryin to figure this bitch out ...http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...872407252&rd=1
89 efi conversion
17" katana, lude arms, full 2" exhaust/hollowed cat, Ractive intake, centerforce dual friction, msd coil/wires
mmmm that lude looks swe et... i dunno if it's worth like $8,500 that he's asking for, but that's just my .02
I sure as hell don't think its worth it but a lot of the shit he dis is what we could do.![]()
89 efi conversion
17" katana, lude arms, full 2" exhaust/hollowed cat, Ractive intake, centerforce dual friction, msd coil/wires
yeah thats the thing. we could do any of that... mmmm blacked out lights! gotta love that!
If I was to rebuild the whole moter-low comp pistons, balance the bottem end, port and polish the head etc- would this beable to hole @ least like 15-20 all day???
Cold Air intake, Apexi N1 turbomuffler w/2.25 piping, H22 injectors,gutted cat, Dc sport header, accel coil, MSD ignition, Dropzone coilovers
well justin didnt do TOO much when he was running 23.. but maybe he had other tricks i dont know... 20 psi is a freakin lot though... 15 could be possible with good fuel/spark management.
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