Try this one.
CARBURETOR SET UP AND LEAN BEST IDLE ADJUSTMENT
And I'll give you this one because it taught me pretty much everything I needed to know about carbs. It's really good.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ers_manual.pdf
Try this one.
CARBURETOR SET UP AND LEAN BEST IDLE ADJUSTMENT
And I'll give you this one because it taught me pretty much everything I needed to know about carbs. It's really good.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ers_manual.pdf
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
This is great information Thank you!
my go at plugging the egr. there are some finished product images in the brake booster thread.. i think.
I traced the egr plate and cut some stainless steel plateing then used some liquid nail i had laying around to seal the air gaps when i tightened down the nuts.
Liquid Nails wouldn't have been my first choice. I guess it won't matter since you don't have an O2 sensor.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Can you unscrew or remove the ERG out of it's base? If you could do that you could then tap it and put a bolt in it.
Here ya go... boom, and it even blings... Just use some RTV on it...
GM Acura AMC Honda Jeep Nissan Saturn TBI EGR Aluminum Block Off Fits Chevy LT1 | eBay
Ha! Thank you. Yous hould see them now they are all slopped up now. I have coated them with silicone gasket sealant and some liquid steel..... im going to start fresh by ordering some new ones. As far as the linkage i have since swapped on the stock linkage and i had to modify a few things that were getting in the way. but overall it works well. i had to widen the hole for the weber throttle bolt to fit through the stock linkage just ever so slightly. The linkage has some play in it front to back. i cant tighten the bolt enough because i dont have enough to catch the bolt with a socket. dont know if you know what im talking about. I still need to play with it a bit.
How can I get my vent control function back. The vaccum line I removed i have no idea where it came from or goes to get my vent door control back. It just blows at the floor no matter what I have all the junk still when I removed it. There is a strange hard line coming out of the firewall right under where the black control box was. Looks almost like a beake line with a weird rubber sleeve on it. is this the one I need to run a check valve to in order for the vents to work?
Last edited by charliefowle03; 07-10-2013 at 09:34 PM.
I am trying to regain control of my vents in the car after swapping the weber. Has anyone gotten into this black box before? What am i doing??
I actually don't have any vac contolled devices in my hvac but I have a 3 rd gen. If you do thenit has to be a nipple it puece of hose coming from the firewall area or possibly along the fender headed towards that way, could follow tge harness. Also maybe a plastic container with vac stuff that needs to be connected, that would be a reservior for vacuum. I doubt its in the black box.
Reinstall everything back to normal and use a hand vacuum pump to find out where everything goes. Do you have pictures before the Weber that show where the hoses go?
ROFL! OMG i could not. Id just rather die in the heat. I do see the nipple that comes out the firewall. it is the only one. Atleast to my sight. So in theory, i could pull out one of these check valves, wiring tinto the existing harness that is still hangin in my engine bay that use to plug into the black box, get a vaccum line splitter and route it in with the vaccum advance line?
You just need to run vacuum from the intake manifold to the HVAC box. There is 1 vacuum line that comes from the HVAC system in the dash. It should be the only vacuum line that comes through the firewall. Hook it up to your intake manifold (split it off your brake booster line if there are no ports on the manifold). You might need one of those vacuum canisters that holds vacuum in order for it to work right. Don't even bother going through that black box, it has nothing to do with your heating system.
So even rhough the button in the vehicles to change the direction are electronic the idea is that I just need to provide a vaccum to the system. The electronic components should all still be working just fine with the black box removed? I will tap into the brake booster hose and through a canister in there as well.
The HVAC doors are operated by vacuum. The electronic buttons sends a signal to the vacuum actuators for the HVAC system so yeah you gonna need a vacuum source for it
Ok that makes sense. I was thinking that the black box contained some kind of like check valves or actuators or just something electeonicslly controlled that allowed the vaccum to be directed to the specific vent flapper door. So I will route a hose from the firewall to the booster then see if I can get that to do the trick then I will put a canister in line if thst doesn't suffice. Thanks everybody!
I had no success with with vacuum line. Im pretty sure im just not going to the proper line out of the firewall. Anyother suggestions, because i dont see any others? And what is this canister by the hood hindge?
No, it's not a nipple, it's literally a hose that comes through the firewall right in the middle of the firewall kinda down low.
That thing on the firewall is some sort of dashpot I believe. It basically turns on or off the flow to a certain vacuum hose under certain conditions, or it does the opposite and takes vacuum and sends an electrical signal based on the vacuum going to it... cna't remember which. Might be an anti-backfire valve or whatever. I think you should pick up a manual for your car. They are like $10 on ebay.
1983 Original Honda Accord Service Shop Repair Manual 83 w Wiring Diagrams | eBay
BAM. This will help you out loads. Not that I'm saying we don't want to help or anything, but it would definitely save you the trouble of having to wait for us, and will tell you what every component is.
There is usually a check valve in line for those dash vacuum deals on other cars, these may be inside the car I dunno.
That keeps vents from opening and closing when engine vacuum changes while driving.
I think that dashpot is for the AC idle boost.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
The HVAC line is just to the right of that solenoid on the firewall, actually tee'd into it. And that is the idle controller for A/C, the first hose you have circled in the pic is vent from the fuel tank.
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