Extended Top Hats and such- Cheddasauto

[Vanilla Sky]

Cars that are lowered enough to need extended top hats really need shorter shock bodies instead. They're out there, easier to put together, and more to the point, would give more suspension travel. I'm not the moderator for the sanctioned racing forum because I don't know my shit. I've been there, done that, and know what it takes to build something right. Relocating the "top hats" to above the shock mount pretty much guarantees that a spring is going to come unseated at some point in time. That's a bad thing.

[chedda_jsauto]

I dont think the spring is going to come dislodged if its under pressure and preloaded. I could see if it was a short, stiff spring, and under full extension it comes loose. But in this case, the spring is actually more seated that before. If there needs to be a small spring seat on the underside, it would be fairly easy to make those and include the in the kit. They could bolt along with the top hat, to the fender.

[Vanilla Sky]

You've never dropped a spring out of its perch mid corner, have you? Unless you have spring tension at full droop or have limiting straps, it's going to happen. Adding the upper spring perch below the top hat helps, but then you don't need to worry about making the top hat all that strong, since it's just handling damping forces, which really aren't that severe.

[chedda_jsauto]

Essentially if you look at the stock design, it has a simple perch, thats glued to the original top-hat. This is all that prevents the spring from coming lose. If the spring doesn't come loose in a stock situation, then it won't come lose when the hat has been extended and the spring has become even more compressed. The shock itself, because you have regained the stroke from the top hat, will actually hold the spring in place better. Mainly because the shock will not be able to extend as far in relation to the spring. Again, if a simple perch needs to be machined to house the top of the spring, then that can be made as well. The upper mount will be made strong regardless.

[chedda_jsauto]

Honestly the original shock top hat perch could be used if the hole in the center is large enough, I still have yet to measure the OD of the shock body, but most are 2". I don't think anyone has anything to lose here, if they don't work out I will fully refund everyone.

[Vanilla Sky]

Or, you can take a stock top hat, cut the top off, weld a spacer in, and be all-in for under $20 with a properly located spring.

Of course, all of this is moot if the end user put on super short ricer springs that come unseated well before full droop.

[chedda_jsauto]

People can do things the cheap DIY if they want, I have no problem with that. I am offering a different way of doing it. You should start cutting the tops of stock parts and welding stuff on and selling them for $20. That would be a hell of a deal.

[Vanilla Sky]

I never said they could be sold for that price. What I did say is that you can make them yourself for less than $20. Reading comprehension, bro.

[chedda_jsauto]

I never said they could be sold for that price. What I did say is that you can make them yourself for less than $20. Reading comprehension, bro.

Oh I understand what you're saying and trying to do, but I'm not paying attention because I have my own idea on how to make these, it is not an incorrect way, that is that.

[rice_cracker]

Or, you can take a stock top hat, cut the top off, weld a spacer in, and be all-in for under $20 with a properly located spring.

Of course, all of this is moot if the end user put on super short ricer springs that come unseated well before full droop.

Or you could pay a premium to have nicer looking parts made on someone else's labour... Horses for courses...

[chedda_jsauto]

The materials are in for the first set, thanks allot guys.

[MessyHonda]

Im looking forward to these. My Konis are already maxed out because im like 2.5 inch drop in the front and 2 inches in the rear and i want it lower with out ridding on my bump stops.

Called a shop that rebuilds Konis and to do a simple rebuild was 150 per shock not including shipping back and forth. then another 150 to get the body shorten another 150 to make it external adjustable and 50 dollars to do a revalve. almost 500 per shock to convert it to a Koni yellow. i would rather run top hats if it lts my shock live longer. waiting to win the lotto to convert my koni reds to yellow

[Vanilla Sky]

The thing is that shorter shocks are the RIGHT way to do it. I wish Koni still made their rebuild kits readily available to the public.

For what it's worth, Koni dampers are adjustable so as they wear out, you can adjust them. Adjusting them for performance wasn't a thought when they were made to be adjustable. That's why Koni reds are adjustable off the car only.

[chedda_jsauto]

I agree that shorter body shocks are great. But remember that suspension travel is typically a good thing, so if you lower your car, and you shorten your shock, then you lose some range of motion.

Anyways, here are the first set I machined tonight. Right around 3 hrs into this set so far, not too bad. Just need to drill the stud holes, and source some good metric studs.

[rice_cracker]

Looking real spanky Chedda

[chedda_jsauto]

And the first set is done. They will be shipped off to someone for tested this weekend, and hopefully soon we can have some install instructions and photos from a friend.





I have three sets already paid for. I believe I can provide these as "made to order", as I don't really need to CNC cut them. Installing them will be fairly easy, but a little bit of modification will have to be done to the shock tower hole to fit the larger bushing housing. Thanks allot for looking.

[Vanilla Sky]

If you're already lowered, you don't nee more downward travel.

These look sweet, though. Still mounted to the top? Any way you can mod them to fit underneath the tower if they do? Trying to weigh my time vs. just buying yours.

[chedda_jsauto]

They can be mounted above or below. The stub on the bottom of the unit accepts the stock spring isolator. Either way the hole in the tower does need to be increased from 43mm to 50mm using the supplied template.

[2ndGenGuy]

Those look sweet! Nice work!

[chedda_jsauto]

Thanks. They will be available for the 2G Accord crowd as well, as I am making a set for the 2G prelude, and lots of parts do swap between those two models.

[2ndGenGuy]

2g Accords have MacPherson struts all around. I'd say you should make some camber plates for the 2g Accord, but I'd be the only person who would buy them.

[chedda_jsauto]

Here are some photos of 3 recent sets I have been working on. Also a shot of the bushings installed on a new set.

[chedda_jsauto]

Any some installed photos, three sets all done, all sold. Thanks guys.





https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater

[bingbongplop3]

I'm with it

[Tdurr]

What bushings do you use?