[Video] Brake caliper Seized 1983 Honda Accord

[charliefowle03]

So its late. this may be brief.. Update . Iadjust the pushrod on the booster to go more in. Bled the front brakes again... The more i messed around on it today iim thinking the proportioning valve may be gunked up just like i asssumed the saliper seized up. From all the crap that broke down when the ms and booster crapped out. Leading me to think that it is not allowing the front caliper to relieve the pressure. I want to replace it just for the heck i have done some much bleeding on this thing. im sick of it. Only the driver front is not rotating freelY. Atleast consistently. The passeneger side is just fine. so the pushrod problem would be narrowed out on that fact. the caliper is brand new. guide pins are greased. ms is new, booster new. Brake lines are in good shape...hmmmm. the only remaing factor is the proportioning valve. I neede to check the right rear thats how these things are worked oout to function right? i mean it would be malfunction just like thedriver front if this were thge problem? Thoughts, ideas? Ugh im tired...ZZZZZZZZ

[charliefowle03]

wheels spun identically when the carwas in the air. they didnt like whip around so silky like but you know, enough to you a hand with minimal force and will get a full rotation in. As i undo the bleeder the baby frees right up and rotates freely when thecar is indrive and in the air. as i tighten it back down itslowly return to grabbing the rotor and catches. ??

[charliefowle03]

http://www.justanswer.com/honda/1ipj...rd-4-door.html


Very similar situation here

[PDXAccord79]

If you take the caliper off and push the pedal what happens? Stick some wood or something in between to see how hard it pushes down and what happens when you let off. The piston could be having issues. Just because it's new doesn't mean it works.

[Hazwan]

How did you know the rubber hoses are fine? They can be fine from the outside but collapsing on the inside basically acting like a check valve, allowing fluid to flow to the caliper but not return back to the master cylinder.

[Dr_Snooz]

If I'm reading your issue correctly, the only real problem at this point is that the driver's wheel is hotter than the passenger's. You're not getting any kind of pull when braking. You're not warping rotors. You don't have abysmal gas mileage. You haven't lost power. Really you don't have any other kind of bad brake symptom beside the heat you're feeling on the wheel. Beside that, the brakes feel good and stop well. I'm not seeing where the brake problem is here.

I'm not trying to be a dick, even though I know I'm succeeding. It's just that I've been down this road spending all kinds of time and money trying to fix a problem that wasn't really there. When you're a meticulous perfectionist who overthinks things, this is what happens. If your brakes had a problem, you'd know it from how the car drives.

Don't make yourself crazy with this.

[charliefowle03]

If I'm reading your issue correctly, the only real problem at this point is that the driver's wheel is hotter than the passenger's. You're not getting any kind of pull when braking. You're not warping rotors. You don't have abysmal gas mileage. You haven't lost power. Really you don't have any other kind of bad brake symptom beside the heat you're feeling on the wheel. Beside that, the brakes feel good and stop well. I'm not seeing where the brake problem is here.

I'm not trying to be a dick, even though I know I'm succeeding. It's just that I've been down this road spending all kinds of time and money trying to fix a problem that wasn't really there. When you're a meticulous perfectionist who overthinks things, this is what happens. If your brakes had a problem, you'd know it from how the car drives.

Don't make yourself crazy with this.

Maybe so but the fact is that was not occuring prior to the brake booster replacement. I do experiwnce brake fade pretty quickly after driving on thw freeway. And thw fact that the rotor is already heat blue makes me wonder. The passenger side lloks as new as it was out of the box. Therefore it is definately an issue to me. I am by no means a neat freak or whatever . I really just think my ahit could build up to a catstrophic failure in the braking system. Im paranoid because its the brakes.
I really appreciate you words of reliefe. And you are helping its just that Im just frustrated I can't lut the words into a proper description of what's happening. I'm sorry. I jusr know that what's happening isn't good.

So I'm trying to find out how I can stop the problem of mt wheels becoming 495ºF after a 10 minute drive. I have a great feel in the brake pedal but I can feel the fade now which I'm not digging. I just think I'm going to replace the hose and the clean the proporting valve.

[charliefowle03]

If you take the caliper off and push the pedal what happens? Stick some wood or something in between to see how hard it pushes down and what happens when you let off. The piston could be having issues. Just because it's new doesn't mean it works.

I'm gonna try this

[Hazwan]

When my passenger's side caliper froze, I don't feel anything. Drives straight, pedal feels normal except when it started smoking and my brake fluid boiling and I've lost all the brakes but before it got so hot that it smokes, I can't feel any difference.

One rotation is acceptable. Mine stops after 1.5 turn with minimal force spinning the wheels

[2oodoor]

One diagnostic tool you could use here is an infrared thermometer to see just how hot things are and what the differences are between sides. They have them at harbor frieght for cheep. They come in handy for many things too like checking hvac, electrical connections, seeing if you can fry eggs on your driveway, seeing thru walls once you get good with it.
I am alittle concerned about the pushrod adjustment, that really is the last resort and messing with it early on can make a diagnostic nightmare a horror.
Infrared Thermometer - Non-contact, Digital Thermometer

[apache07x]

How did you know the rubber hoses are fine? They can be fine from the outside but collapsing on the inside basically acting like a check valve, allowing fluid to flow to the caliper but not return back to the master cylinder.

I agree with Hazwan. Sounds like a brake hose collapsing seen it happen many times where people would change everything but their hoses and bring it to the shop because they couldn't figure it out and it would be the brake hose. When you crack the bleeder does it squirt fluid out like it is pressurized or just kind of drip out? If it squirts out I'd try the rubber hose first. In 20+ years I think I've replaced one proportioning valve and that ended up not being the problem.

[apache07x]

seeing if you can fry eggs on your driveway, [/url]

This is always handy in Fl and Ga so you can tell when it's safe to fry the eggs and not just have a big eggy mess in your driveway. lmao Didn't think I'd notice that did you roo?

[charliefowle03]

One diagnostic tool you could use here is an infrared thermometer to see just how hot things are and what the differences are between sides. They have them at harbor frieght for cheep. They come in handy for many things too like checking hvac, electrical connections, seeing if you can fry eggs on your driveway, seeing thru walls once you get good with it.
I am alittle concerned about the pushrod adjustment, that really is the last resort and messing with it early on can make a diagnostic nightmare a horror.
Infrared Thermometer - Non-contact, Digital Thermometer

ROFL! seeing through walls is an excellent diagnostic ability. But yeah totally, my brake fluid was not boiling but it was hot when i dipped my finger in it. I have never hear of a proportioning valve going bad either. so thats what is dumb that if one of these things really does have to be replaced. Is nt the brake hose just a thick hydraulic cose. Likehow can it become a check valve. Ive just heard they crack?

[charliefowle03]

One diagnostic tool you could use here is an infrared thermometer to see just how hot things are and what the differences are between sides. They have them at harbor frieght for cheep. They come in handy for many things too like checking hvac, electrical connections, seeing if you can fry eggs on your driveway, seeing thru walls once you get good with it.
I am alittle concerned about the pushrod adjustment, that really is the last resort and messing with it early on can make a diagnostic nightmare a horror.
Infrared Thermometer - Non-contact, Digital Thermometer

ROFL! seeing through walls is an excellent diagnostic ability. But yeah totally, my brake fluid was not boiling but it was hot when i dipped my finger in it. I have never hear of a proportioning valve going bad either. so thats what is dumb that if one of these things really does have to be replaced. Is nt the brake hose just a thick hydraulic hose. Like how can it become a check valve. Ive just heard they crack?

[2oodoor]

Egg-zackly

[charliefowle03]

Egg-zackly

Hah. Right now I'm having problems locsting my brake hose in the mail. It was delivered 2 days ago supposedly but I know its not in my mailbox. I live in an apaetment and got one of those dumb communoty boxes outside and it is not at the local usps office. Its parcel mail and it causing a lot of confusion. Ugh

[charliefowle03]

I agree with Hazwan. Sounds like a brake hose collapsing seen it happen many times where people would change everything but their hoses and bring it to the shop because they couldn't figure it out and it would be the brake hose. When you crack the bleeder does it squirt fluid out like it is pressurized or just kind of drip out? If it squirts out I'd try the rubber hose first. In 20+ years I think I've replaced one proportioning valve and that ended up not being the problem.

It squirts out when we are bleeding them.

[2oodoor]

The rubber brake hose has steel coil inside like a ribbon. If the hose is old the steel coil can rust or break, also if it is pulled or pinched it can be damaged by bending the coiled up steel inside...all of which can cause blockage and one way hydraulic pressure because it can block in applied pressure andnot release it between the blockage and caliper.
Sometimes they can contract like finger cuffs or 'chinese handcuffs' sorry if thats not pc but thats what they used to call them at the novelty store.

http://www.brakequip.com/pdf/june12/...blems_2012.pdf

[apache07x]

ROFL! seeing through walls is an excellent diagnostic ability. But yeah totally, my brake fluid was not boiling but it was hot when i dipped my finger in it. I have never hear of a proportioning valve going bad either. so thats what is dumb that if one of these things really does have to be replaced. Is nt the brake hose just a thick hydraulic hose. Like how can it become a check valve. Ive just heard they crack?

Well like a hydraulic hose there are several layers to the hose. What happens is the inner wall separates from the outer and when you release pressure off of the pedal instead of the fluid returning to the MC it sucks the hose shut and won't let the fluid out of the caliper. That in turn keeps pressure in the caliper and makes it partially, or sometimes completely, hang up. Usually it does just what your describing though. Seem like everything is working except a brake is getting hot.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

[charliefowle03]

Well like a hydraulic hose there are several layers to the hose. What happens is the inner wall separates from the outer and when you release pressure off of the pedal instead of the fluid returning to the MC it sucks the hose shut and won't let the fluid out of the caliper. That in turn keeps pressure in the caliper and makes it partially, or sometimes completely, hang up. Usually it does just what your describing though. Seem like everything is working except a brake is getting hot.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

Great info thank you! The brake hose i ordered got returned back because for somereason they though my apartment was vacant? Does that say something about my lack of checking mail? hmm any way so i ordered another and will bew here in a few days. For now i have some pictures to update.
I pulled the guide pins that came with the Beck/Arnley Calipers. Remind you these are 4 days old....

[charliefowle03]

The rubber brake hose has steel coil inside like a ribbon. If the hose is old the steel coil can rust or break, also if it is pulled or pinched it can be damaged by bending the coiled up steel inside...all of which can cause blockage and one way hydraulic pressure because it can block in applied pressure andnot release it between the blockage and caliper.
Sometimes they can contract like finger cuffs or 'chinese handcuffs' sorry if thats not pc but thats what they used to call them at the novelty store.

http://www.brakequip.com/pdf/june12/...blems_2012.pdf

Ahh this is fantastic. this is just what i was looking for. the cut away pics. I can definately see mine being all bent and pinched like that i can vaugely remeber sometime where i have dropped thos thingsdoing some brakes on this vehicle. eeeehh. This whole theory does make sense thouugh of it not being able to relieve pressure.

[charliefowle03]

From the pdf Haz.....

Open the bleeder valve
to see if the wheel
rotates.
If the wheel hangs up after
1. Loosening the steel
line to flexible brake
hose and
2. Opening bleeder valve.
The most likely cause is a
one way flapper restriction
in the flexible brake hose.


Boom

[charliefowle03]

[charliefowle03]

pittage...4days old? This was the bottom slide pin too. if that is any relevance to diagnosing

[Hazwan]

Well I wouldn't worry much about the pitting as long as the bores are smooth and the pins would slide freely (with enough grease obviously!)