[Video] Brake caliper Seized 1983 Honda Accord

[charliefowle03]

I have been going down on these brakes for a little time now. I replaced the booster and master cylinder and then bled the brakes. I have recently tinkered with the pushrod length on the booster and have tried to get it back to factory distance.
The problem: Brake pedal is inconsistent while applying. Some times stiff and other times normal. Now it is spongy right when I start it up then slowly returns to normal. after replacing these i noticed my calipers was showing asyptoms of seizing up. The rotor on the drivrr side is glazed and really burnt . could this be a p shrod length problem

[charliefowle03]

I had also only managed to get on a new caliper. Could not get the rotor offdue to a locked seized screw the holds it to the wheel hub. Still doing the same thing not letting it free up.. I adjusted the pushrod a few threads still not much of a difference

[Legend_master]

The video is set to private, can't watch it. You might consider getting a manual impact driver for the removal of that screw.

[Dr_Snooz]

^^^ What he said.

Use anti-seize when you put it back together, or just leave the screw out completely.

[charliefowle03]

^^^ What he said.

Use anti-seize when you put it back together, or just leave the screw out completely.

Thank you for the video! Wonderful help around here i cant believe it. Couldn't find one of those nifty tools. So i bought an extraction screw extraction kit...didn't work either. so i Just when man on it and drilled them out. Unfortunately I had no screw to replace the ones I drilled to death. Will this be an issue. I realize you said i could leave them out but, is it safe? I have finished the job! I still need to bleed the brakes...again. Hopefully this will give me some relief!

[Legend_master]

Definitely safe. If you look at the design of the system, the wheels hold the rotor in place.

[charliefowle03]

[charliefowle03]

[2ndGenGuy]

So shiny and fresh! Stops better now?

[charliefowle03]

So shiny and fresh! Stops better now?

Brake pedal feels a lot better but the driver side is still dragging. I remved thw wheels after a day of driving to work and back. And it looks like the rotor is already looking overhewted. Jacked it up and took the wheels off and put it in drive.. thwn observed the rotors turning the pasenger rotates freely byt not so consistently on the driver. It appears to be doing the same rhing as in the video. As I apply the brakes about an 1/8th of the way the rotor frees up and begins to turn. Then the further I press the pedal in they brake normally. Thwn when I fully release the pedal they begin to catch and grab. I noticed the caliper pulsing as if the rotor was warped badly but I know its not atleast yet. ... Not sure if anyone knows what I mean when I am talking about the caliper pulsing. It moves in and out about a 1/4 inch as the rotor turns around a full rotation. Can't feel it in the pedal though. So idk I'm confused at this point I don't know wheter to back out the pushrod or move it in more it appears to be out as far as it can go out.

[Legend_master]

Very strange situation. I don't understand why pressing the pedal releases the caliper. Theoretically it should just stay stopped. Maybe you have some type of problem with the proportioning valve?

[HLW]

Very strange situation. I don't understand why pressing the pedal releases the caliper. Theoretically it should just stay stopped. Maybe you have some type of problem with the proportioning valve?

It is not releasing the caliper, the passenger side is grabbing as much as the driver side is when the driver side starts to turn. If the brakes are grabbing it could be a clogged line or the caliper and rotor are not aligned.

Brake pedal feels a lot better but the driver side is still dragging. I remved thw wheels after a day of driving to work and back. And it looks like the rotor is already looking overhewted. Jacked it up and took the wheels off and put it in drive.. thwn observed the rotors turning the pasenger rotates freely byt not so consistently on the driver. It appears to be doing the same rhing as in the video. As I apply the brakes about an 1/8th of the way the rotor frees up and begins to turn. Then the further I press the pedal in they brake normally. Thwn when I fully release the pedal they begin to catch and grab. I noticed the caliper pulsing as if the rotor was warped badly but I know its not atleast yet. ... Not sure if anyone knows what I mean when I am talking about the caliper pulsing. It moves in and out about a 1/4 inch as the rotor turns around a full rotation. Can't feel it in the pedal though. So idk I'm confused at this point I don't know wheter to back out the pushrod or move it in more it appears to be out as far as it can go out.

remove the pads from the calipers and see if the driver side turns freely. If it does the brakes are definitely grabbing. If it still doesn't move freely you may have a bad bearing.
If the driver side turns freely without the brake pads, check the hub to see if it is bent by using a dial indicator while slowly turning the hub.

[Dr_Snooz]

You're overthinking things. Your car has an open diff. That means that only one wheel is going to turn at a time. The brakes are never going to apply at exactly the same time, so when the brakes hit the passenger rotor, the diff spins the driver's side wheel instead.

Normally functioning brakes will always drag slightly. If you can turn the wheel by hand, then the brake is not dragging, even if it sounds like it. Normal brakes also generate tremendous amounts of heat, so your rotors are always going to discolor quickly. There's no way to prevent that.

I don't see any pics of your guide pins. Did you check them? Are they chewed up? Did you clean and re-grease them? Do they slide smoothly?

Aside from that, I don't see anything that makes me worried. Just drive that car and enjoy.

[charliefowle03]

You're overthinking things. Your car has an open diff. That means that only one wheel is going to turn at a time. The brakes are never going to apply at exactly the same time, so when the brakes hit the passenger rotor, the diff spins the driver's side wheel instead.

Normally functioning brakes will always drag slightly. If you can turn the wheel by hand, then the brake is not dragging, even if it sounds like it. Normal brakes also generate tremendous amounts of heat, so your rotors are always going to discolor quickly. There's no way to prevent that.

I don't see any pics of your guide pins. Did you check them? Are they chewed up? Did you clean and re-grease them? Do they slide smoothly?

Aside from that, I don't see anything that makes me worried. Just drive that car and enjoy.

Thank you for your help guys. I've ordered some brake hoses for the front just to elimate the anxiety about all this. I smell brakes burning right after I get oit after a 15 minute drive. Is this normal. I MEAN I CANT EVER TOUCH THE rim its so hot after driving for 15 minutes. Heqt just radiates out from the wheel.

[Legend_master]

You're overthinking things. Your car has an open diff. That means that only one wheel is going to turn at a time. The brakes are never going to apply at exactly the same time, so when the brakes hit the passenger rotor, the diff spins the driver's side wheel instead.

Normally functioning brakes will always drag slightly. If you can turn the wheel by hand, then the brake is not dragging, even if it sounds like it. Normal brakes also generate tremendous amounts of heat, so your rotors are always going to discolor quickly. There's no way to prevent that.

I don't see any pics of your guide pins. Did you check them? Are they chewed up? Did you clean and re-grease them? Do they slide smoothly?

Aside from that, I don't see anything that makes me worried. Just drive that car and enjoy.

This may be a little off subject, but I've been thinking about getting these for a gain in MPG. They essentially move the brake pad away from the rotor when the brakes are not being applied. Maybe they could help in your situation.

Raybestos Brakes - News - Product News Detail

[charliefowle03]

This may be a little off subject, but I've been thinking about getting these for a gain in MPG. They essentially move the brake pad away from the rotor when the brakes are not being applied. Maybe they could help in your situation.

Raybestos Brakes - News - Product News Detail

I've seen those on other vehicles..stock. newer csrs of course never knew their proper function. Are they universal or do you need there caliper for them to properrly work?

[Legend_master]

It's actually just presses on the top of the pad. Have not tested them yet, I did see some people online using them on civics. They are similar in design.

[Legend_master]

Found a PDF for application chart. Guessing maybe the ones for the 93 Accor coupe.

http://www.nucap.com/admin/includes/doc_view.php?ID=547

[2ndGenGuy]

It sounds to me like your problem is that brake booster adjustment. Everything else is new, and the booster was replaced. I bet money that's the problem.

[Dr_Snooz]

Thank you for your help guys. I've ordered some brake hoses for the front just to elimate the anxiety about all this. I smell brakes burning right after I get oit after a 15 minute drive. Is this normal. I MEAN I CANT EVER TOUCH THE rim its so hot after driving for 15 minutes. Heqt just radiates out from the wheel.

The wheels aren't going to be cool after a drive. Is the one wheel significantly hotter than the other? The burning smell would give me pause. Is it difficult to remove the caliper? If the brake is hanging up that bad, then it should be quite hard to remove from the rotor.

And once again for the 15th time: GUIDE PINS!!!!!! Stop easter egging and check them.

[Hazwan]

The smell could be from new pad/rotors breaking in. Can you spin the wheel by hand freely? If it does turn 1-2 times then you're fine. Minor dragging is normal. Wheel being so hot to touch is definitely not normal and yes do check your guide pins! Are they greased properly?

[charliefowle03]

The smell could be from new pad/rotors breaking in. Can you spin the wheel by hand freely? If it does turn 1-2 times then you're fine. Minor dragging is normal. Wheel being so hot to touch is definitely not normal and yes do check your guide pins! Are they greased properly?

The guide pins appearrf to be lubed prior to installation. Shouldn't they come lubed if I boight the whole caliper set? I will definstely get some lube t omorrow either way . I will try the spin test hazwan. But yes I think the ddriver side is noticeably hotter than the passenger side. And definately hot to the touch. Weve had crappy rain all week so I haven't had a chance to properly investigate. Again the calipe appeares to move in and out a quarter inch as the wheel rotstes when I had the tire off. Is that normal. It pulsated if you know what I mwan as if the surface of the rotor where not level all the way around. But the rotor is brand new and doesn't appear to be out of wack or anyrhing.

[charliefowle03]

Any one have a specific distance or measurement I can take for proper puahrod lengrh on rhe booster?

[Hazwan]

They should come lubed if you bought the whole assembly but then people make mistakes. Who knows if they missed or didn't put enough grease in it?

I honestly don't think its your pushrod clearance as the other brakes did not drag or create enough heat right?

One thing you should try is to spin the wheel and see if its dragging and if it does, undo the bleeder screw and see if it went away. I'm pretty sure its your brake hose

[charliefowle03]

They should come lubed if you bought the whole assembly but then people make mistakes. Who knows if they missed or didn't put enough grease in it?

I honestly don't think its your pushrod clearance as the other brakes did not drag or create enough heat right?

One thing you should try is to spin the wheel and see if its dragging and if it does, undo the bleeder screw and see if it went away. I'm pretty sure its your brake hose

I think your right haz. The hose is going to be in the mail today and I will post some pics and update. The passenger and rear are all cool. I mean atleast not as bad I guess. The passenger front was no where near as hot as the driver but still hot though. I wouldn't touch the lugs with my bare hand.