Injection question

[firefighterwhite89]

So, I have a good question. I've noticed for about a month, an injector issue. Car seems like I have an injector that is either A)Dirty, in need of cleansing or B)Not getting sufficient contact. You can only tell a difference when you give it 20% throttle or more. Almost like a cylinder miss, but its not missing, just a cylinder that's not at complete full power. But when you lets off the accelerator, all cylinders run/fire perfect.
My number 2 and 3 cylinder Fuel Injectors have frayed old wire connectors at the injector plugs. Could this issue cause less resistance/power etc to the injector/s causing this? I drew out what kinda frayed connector I have. I'm stuck dispatching and can't get to the vehicle to take a picture. Could this frayed connection cause this issue?

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[Legend_master]

Theoretically that could be a problem, but have you checked your timing to verify it is set properly?

[firefighterwhite89]

Yes sir. Last time I timed it with a light, I took a flat chisel and chiseled a perfect mark for the correct time on the dizzy/mount. Its set perfectly. Vacuum Advance is new.

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[niles]

Have you modified anything that might affect the vacuum system?

I had a hell of a time figuring out a recent misfire. It only happened when the car was a cold start always cyl. 2... It was how I had the vacuum lines attached to my custom intake.

EDIT: Problem is still there, but the vacuum setup was making it worse...

Also, a set of noid lights will tell you if the injector plugs are working properly (rent from Autozone or buy from Harbor Freight $10)

[firefighterwhite89]

I have noise lights. Their all working properly. I'm curious if its the frayed wire connection causing a resistance loss/increase making the injection signal off time, etc...
There's no vacuum mods. Everything is attached per FSM correctly

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[Legend_master]

If your injectors are not working properly keep in mind there is a resistor box for them. That may be another possibility for what is not working properly. Are they the original injectors? If you replaced a low impedance injector (factory) with a high impedance that could also lead to issues.

[firefighterwhite89]

They're all still stock except for one. It's an exact OEM replacement.

Resistor Box passed inspection with flying colors. I tested it on three occasions recently.

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[firefighterwhite89]

I've troubleshooted everything in the FSM and electrical manual and come up with nothing but the wonder if the frayed connection is the source of the issue?

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[Legend_master]

Well, I have used this method to clean injectors before. Could possibly be something else in the system limiting fuel pressure.

[Dr_Snooz]

^^^Have you made that a How-To yet?

[Legend_master]

^^^Have you made that a How-To yet?

I have not, this guy explains it pretty well.

[niles]

Do you have any error codes on the computer?

[Dr_Snooz]

How hard is it to replace that loom with a junkyard spare?

[Jafir]

Hesitation above 20% throttle could be a fuel pressure or flow problem. There also was a TSB or service news post from a long time ago that corrected a misfire on these engines by replacing a dried cracked rubber gasket on the tec igniters. They would arc between the pins and cause a slight stumble. Previous to that (and if you look in the catalog to this day) the gasket wasn't available separately. Another possibility might be a stuck mechanical advance. Give the rotor a twist and see if it moves. If it doesn't move or doesn't spring back, you can disassemble and clean. Throttle position could possibly cause a stumble, but I would think it would throw a code.... I've seen TPS codes on 3G and 4G Accords that ran fine. I've also seen o2 sensors that would read lean all of the time that would cause running problems after warmed up. They would eventually give a generic catch all fuel injection code... 1 I think was the code.

[DanPadilla]

I have noise led lights. Their all working properly. I'm curious if its the frayed wire connection causing a resistance loss/increase making the injection signal off time, etc...
There's no vacuum mods. Everything is attached per FSM correctly

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Were you able to sort out the problem? It seems like resistance issue but not sure

[firefighterwhite89]

Yes sir, I was just fixing to post back. I believe it was a resistance issue. I cut off cylinder 2 FI plug connection and engineered a homemade connector via two small female splice ends and some red RTV. (Used to RTV gasket maker to form a waterproof seal and of course I liberally applied a fairly light coating of petroleum jelly to the fuel injectors plug itself so the gasket maker didn't stick to the injector.)
Still idles kinda rough but runs much better. Cylinder 4 has a very loose connection at the connector so I'm replacing it after I get off work and ill see if it idles perfect like it should. Ill post pics too

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[Legend_master]

Yes sir, I was just fixing to post back. I believe it was a resistance issue. I cut off cylinder 2 FI plug connection and engineered a homemade connector via two small female splice ends and some red RTV. (Used to RTV gasket maker to form a waterproof seal and of course I liberally applied a fairly light coating of petroleum jelly to the fuel injectors plug itself so the gasket maker didn't stick to the injector.)
Still idles kinda rough but runs much better. Cylinder 4 has a very loose connection at the connector so I'm replacing it after I get off work and ill see if it idles perfect like it should. Ill post pics too

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Did you reset the ecu after performing this repair?

[firefighterwhite89]

No? I was not aware it needed to be reset...why does it need reset? I thought the ECU basically reset itself everytime you shut the car off for at least 5 minutes?

Pull the ECU/clock fuse and wait a few then re-insert?

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[Legend_master]

No? I was not aware it needed to be reset...why does it need reset? I thought the ECU basically reset itself everytime you shut the car off for at least 5 minutes?

Pull the ECU/clock fuse and wait a few then re-insert?

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The obd-0 system is pretty simple, but it still stores information. I would pull the positive battery cable(or ecu fuse) for 10 minutes. Then reconnect the cable. Start the car and let it idle for 15 -20 minutes or full warm-up (do not touch the throttle). Turn the car off, then turn it back on. After that verify that it idles with full load (lights, ac, ect...).

[firefighterwhite89]

I reset the ECU last night. Removed the battery cables for 2 hours. Still runs the same. :-\
On a side note, I just got the M12 Banjo bolt w/ NPT adapter for my glowshift fuel pressure gauge I've had for a few years. Ill use it to verify consistent fuel PSI. I'll get back to you. I'm thinking I may just have a dirty fuel injector. :-(

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[firefighterwhite89]

I installed my Fuel Pressure Sender/Gauge. Fuel PSI @20 when decelerating, 30 when accelerating and only goes up to 40 PSI when you first turn the switch on before cranking it. Normal?

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[Oldblueaccord]

I have been looking at my fuel pressure last few weeks and I am seeing 38-40 psi with the regulator vacuum hose plugged but when plugged in I do see some pressures hot at 28 psi just at idle. Blipping the throttle pulls it back up to 34 psi.

Anyone else have some data to pass along?