Yeah but I'd like to do the same mods to the B20A and see what happens.
Yeah but I'd like to do the same mods to the B20A and see what happens.
Before this turns into b vs a thing... It is about flow, how much you can push thru the compression chamber, weather it be the ignited mixture and when/what it ignites or forcing flow with a turbo, SC, or Nitrous. Both are 2.0 liters but the Dohc, in logic, should be able to flow better in a NA set up. We've seen here in this forum examples of maxed out A20 and B20 boosted and they produced similar numbers but both lifted the heads and blew HG. Cam overlap limits how much you can pressurize the cyl at the temperatures their running.
This is why vtec variable cam timing was developed for reliable increased streetable power at those temperatures.
Tuning the when and how much is what maximizes the potential output, and let me mention these cars are de-tuned from that potential to meet emissions and have a midrange of power to promote good drivability under all conditions, all weather, all loads tc.
It IS all about flow, which is why the B series will *usually* win over the A series. The extra 4 valves make all the difference.
The A series has serious boost potential though.
C|
^^^very true about the air flow. On a side note anyone know what this piece goes too? Its the part in the picture with the ziptie around it. Looks like it might be used to drain coolant? Anyway it has a vacum plug on it but i think that a hose should go there. B20 guys feel free to chime in.
Last edited by bullard123; 08-26-2013 at 05:59 PM.
I'm not trying to start a B vs A thing either. I was just impressed that even with a few mods on the A series you can get something relatively close to what the B curves that bullard posted. Bullard has mentioned that he needs to tune it a bit and im sure that will help distinguish the B from the A. I agree fully with 2oodoor and cygnus,a lot of power is gained / lost in the head work, I've seen this many times with the V-8's just a small change to even how the spring seats and is located can rob you of that extra couple of HP and rpm's in the valve train. I think it would be a good idea to have a sticky somewhere with dyno charts and accompanied modifications.
1989 Accord Lx-i hatchback (current DD project)
1986 Olds Cutlass 442 clone (never ending project)
3Geez resident body man
Owner of Wreck-less auto body
Here is a better pic of what I'm talking about. Its the part where the white vacuum plug is with the small screw clamp attached. I need to find out what goes there:
looks like its just a water line that used to go to a tee into the line to the fast idle valve. its not really important if your engines running good.
Could you post a pic of how it runs on your engine? The hot antifreeze is causing that plug to get a hole in it and antifreeze is squiriting out of it
Which b20a are you running? The JDM or the EDM... and do you have the ph3 ecu? I ask becUse I have a same motor with the ph3, and those numbers seem kinda low in my opinion( i was thinkin 125+whp). Makes me worried when I swap in a BONE STOCK one!!!
I'd like to do the same amount of work on a B20A as to what I've done on my A18/20 and see which one is the better engine. At the moment my A18/20 puts down 200bhp fly at 7600rpm and 160lbft at 6600rpm from what I've seen the A18/20 is the better revver picks up faster much better throttle response, B20A has excellent low down torque due to the longer stroke. But std head on both the B20A is much better as apart from the 4 extra exhaust valves, the intake valves are 3mm larger on each one add the ability to tune the cams and this can gain quite a lot of extra power, but the chambers in the B20A are very small due to the large stroke and small bore so getting valves that are any bigger than 33mm is virtually impossible 33.5mm or maybe 34mm is the biggest you can go, the A18 head you can fit 33mm valves in easily and with new seats possible to go as big as 35mm with a 83.25mm rebore which would certainly make this a more interesting prospect, you also have the high compression you can get running A18 head with a 83-83.25mm bore size which easily surpases anything a B20A can have without major modification but as others pointed out gaskets on both are weak point when running anything higher than 11:1 CR ratio.
Both are completely different engines but both have some good positives and negatives but I guess untill I finally get to grips with a B20A like I have a A18/20 I and you won't really know which one is best, hopefully in the next year I'll be able to build one up play with I have all the parts just need some time, I spent a lot of time on Benny's engine which I really wish could have been mine instead but I'd have gone further with the modifications if it had been my own one, would also have been good to have seen some dyno results from Benny's engine as I'm sure it would have made some decent power I reckon it was easily 160bhp and 145lbft despite being EDM due to headwork, rebuild, header, exhaust and cam's dialed in but I don't think we'll ever find out as the cars been parted out and Benny's gone off traveling in Auz.
Yeah Rjudgey you should build one! I should have a few more mods done to mine by tax season and I'm taking her back to the dyno again! Should be winter by then so I know I will get some better numbers. Can't wait to go Obd-1 to get rid of the rev limiter that will show an improvement in hp by its self
didnt hear it make a noise.
was testing out my new mega noisy exhaust at the time.
i think the bottom end on these things is strong as all hell, with a full length main bearing girdle,steel main caps and a forged steel crank, having a bearing out of the picture didnt seems to matter that much.
it did stall (nip up) after my first run, but just started up and went again.
drove it home and it still went pretty well
im still waiting on exhaust and intake before i dyno and tune haha
yeah, i'm going to rebuild it.
once i get my arse into gear and get the paint finished.
going to have some fun with it tho.
have some H beam rods already
don't foget to get oil squirter holes drilled into the rods or you'll wreck rings and pistons as it will be starved of engine oil.
Great to see you at it Bullard. I would like to let everyone know that that dyno is called the heart breaker....if Charles took his car anywhere else it would have read about 15% higher. I will add that that dyno has been backed up with actual track times and the calculated power will match up with it. I caught a peek of you rolling on base last week off titus by evans hospital.
un-motivated!
someone make me an offer i just could not say no to.
3GR
Nothin to do with altitude. Rest assured that those are true hp numbers. I still have the accord, but I picked up a 06 suby wrx tr.
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un-motivated!
someone make me an offer i just could not say no to.
3GR
its time to OBD1 tune. im sure that motor has some hidden power.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
tops (Y)
I know my motor with its basic road tune feels no faster if not slower than a stock one. But thats because theres no ignition map tuning and thats where all the power will be with this motor i have. Im sure a tune on even a stock engine will give more power.
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