good stuff
good stuff
1989 Accord Lx-i hatchback (current DD project)
1986 Olds Cutlass 442 clone (never ending project)
3Geez resident body man
Owner of Wreck-less auto body
Very impressive. Looks factory.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Is that thermistor still working for you? It's been a few months. Just wondering if it's fuel safe.
Still working fine, nothing exploded or anything. It feels good to have the light working again.
I think its the same sensoras the one used in the 1g and probably the same like the rest of the Hondas.
I do have some updates!
I got bored with my current wheels and the tires are pretty much shot anyway and I've always wanted some 16" wheels so I figured out this is the perfect time to upgrade else I would be stuck with the 15" for a long time if I got the new tires now. Went looking around the local listing and found some nice 16" for cheap and it came with alright tires and probably would last for another 5k km or so.
Old wheel
New to me wheels. 16x8 ET38 with 195/50-16 tires. Fits pretty much the same as before but a hair bigger in diameter so it fills the wheelgap even better
The wheels are rough but I didn't care much about it since they're gonna get repainted anyway. Here's the worst curb rash of them all
Like how do you even do that??
Stripped the old paint
Decided to polish the lips
Taped up, primed and painted with some leftover paint I found in the storage from my customer. Some off white paint which is something different than the dark colored wheels that I used to have
Done!
It goes pretty well with the red paint IMO
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Extended my front top hats
That length ended up being too long and I had it shortened 1/2" off
I no longer bottom out at the front. I've cut 2 coils off my front stock springs and it rides fine but the lack of 2" travel and having the pretty much the same stiffness means I'm bottoming out a lot. Handles fine AND it rides pretty close to stock and its very nice and comfortable. Hey its not a racecar so I don't really care about the handling. I just couldn't stand the ridiculous stock wheel gaps!
I've got a pair of ITR calipers for free months back and decided to refinish them because I was bored
My EG 15CL13VN calipers (which is already an upgrade with 9.5" rotors up front instead of the stock 9") vs the 17CL15VN ITR calipers (it actually came off an RN6 Stream, but its the same thing. I also have the 11" rotors but it won't fit unless I get the bigger knuckle to go with it, which is pretty hard to find here)
Damn this thing is massive!
Did some research about civic brake upgrades and apparently you could use the smaller 10.3" rotors with these calipers if you have the smaller "DX" spindles but required to take 3mm off the caliper for the rotor to sit properly in the center. BUT when I did my EG calipers and rotors I had to add 3mm washers so the calipers would sit properly. By right I wouldn't have to trim or add anything if I were to use the 10.3" rotors and these calipers. But I'm too poor (more like I'm saving up my money for a different upgrade, which I'll post in a bit) so I couldn't test this theory yet. I need the 10.3" rotors and bigger MC to go with this ($$$ that I don't have yet)
So now I've been slowly collecting parts for my EFI conversion because carbs suck! Seriously they're fun to play with and all but the fuel economy sucks. 18MPG city hurts a lot and I do a lot of city driving. I could get the carbs tuned better by replacing the worn needles and its emulsion tubes but they gonna end up costing way too much and I always wanted to go with EFI since long time ago so I figured this is the perfect time to do it. Don't get me wrong, carbs are fun and I probably would stick to it if it wasn't for the worn needles causing my mid range to be rich. Leanest I could get while cruising is 13:1 and mind you thats too rich. WOT and idle are fine, I recall something around 12.2:1 at WOT and 14.7:1 something during idle. Mid range are impossible to get them right with the worn needles and the stock needles aren't adjustable anyway.
I'm going with OBD1 while I'm at it.
Ohh whats that
Bundle of snakes!
I'm sure some of you would notice that the harness is actually OBDII omg why would you do that??
I got the harness for dirt cheap. And I'm gonna make my own standalone harness so it doesn't really bother me. I'm going with OBD1 so all I gotta do is replace the ECU connectors and such. Besides I hate the 2 piece design on OBD0/1 harness.
The harness is from a B16 EK Civic
Of course cats being cats
P06 ECU
OMG WHY P06?
Because this
And its also the cheapest chippable OBD1 ECU that I could find. It was an auto but I converted it to manual. No biggie!
I have P75 map on it, which I'll get it tuned once everything is running
Bare B16A intake
Now awaiting the rest of the pieces to get there then I can put the carbs to rest.
320km out of 40 odd liters is BAD!
Big update there!
Wheels work did come up very nicely & certainly stand out effectively, fun to experiment though the last look is hard to beat. 8" sounds like a tight fit without slightly stretched tyres
Glad the extended shock mounts should save them from bottoming out when the springs run out of travel.
I did test fit some of those (CRV) calipers on my '81 prelude with some 260mm integra disc rotors & clearances looked good, though they aren't light calipers & the much bigger caliper piston diameter must mean proportioning valve as well as master cylinder so am in no rush to fit them either.
Inj. Parts collection choices sound interesting so really looking forward to seeing how it all comes together (especially now I'm working on 2! Twin carb ED Civics & bought an EG SOHC Vtec...{Didn't get Inj ED here except in rarer CR-X})
You never cease to amaze Haz.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Wow looking good man! The new wheels are great. The new calipers look great too, even if you're not going to use them just yet.Excited to see how your EFI conversion goes!
I know it's not going to blow up, i was more wondering if that little thermistor will deteriorate in the gasoline after a while...![]()
Crap idk why I said the wheels are 16x8. Its 16x7
8" wide with 195 tires gonna be mad stretch yo
So I've installed the rest of the EFI parts like a month ago and finally got around updating this thread. Not sure if people even read this anymore lol??
Overnight parts from NZ from Matt (A18A here)
Basically has everything minus intake, ECU, fuel pump and harness which I got them locally
Anyway, carbs out, test fitting the B16A intake after I had the bolt holes redrilled and stuff
There's a problem..
My A18A intake ports doesn't have the notches for the injectors. And I don't feel like taking the head off just to do that.
Yeah you guessed it. I'm porting the notches with the head still installed. I've made sure that nothing gets in the ports. Made sure the valves are fully closed and then shoved a bunch of modelling clay in it basically sealing the port from any metal shavings to get into it.
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This max 10 images per post is annoying!
Told you nothing gets in here!
All done
Intake assembled
It fits!!
Oh dizzy didn't fit (no shit it won't)
Need a lot of trimming to make it work
Trimmed and made it fit
Replaced the bearings and oil seal in the dizzy while I was there
Not sure if this even helps but added some thermal grease on the coil and ICM. I'm sure it won't hurt anything to have extra thermal transfer and keep them both cooler and hopefully last longer?
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Tapped the thermostat housing for the ECT sensor
Looks factory!
Test fitting the harness
Not too proud of this shitty looking hole for the harness but I am going to pull the engine and redo the engine bay once again so this will do. Awkward position made it near impossible to get a nice and clean hole but oh well this will do for now
Return line from a donor car, I think it was an old Civic feed line (7mm) and it just happen to have similar length so I used that.
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Return line goes to the filler neck. Not idea but this will do for now
Fire hazard! Test fitting the pump and everything just to make sure it works
Love my ground for the fuel pump? LOL
Almost there! Just putting everything together just to make sure everything works then I'll redo the harness
Will it start?
Nope. Fuel pump primes and stopped with the CEL when I first turned the key on. Cranks and the CEL stays and fuel pump doesn't work? That's strange?!
Checked for spark. None. Checked for power at the injectors. Nope. Checked for power at the ECU. Nada. WTF?
CEL sometimes won't come on when I turned the key on. Seems to work intermittently.
Just as I suspected. The main relay is bad
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Last edited by Hazwan; 10-21-2016 at 05:54 AM.
Cleaned it up and everything.. Will it work?
YESSSS!! IT LIVES!!!
I wasn't expecting the CEL to come on but apparently ELD is still enabled in the chip I ordered and the O2 heater code (more to that later)
It runs so smooth though. Sounds very healthy and I honestly was expecting something a lot worse with the whole setup having parts from at least 6 Honda models lol!
Final location for the fuel pump for now. I will fabricate a surge tank as I don't feel like modding the stock tank for the baffles and stuff. I do have an issue with the pump sucking air randomly as well as when I ran low on fuel like under 1/4 tank and during normal corner or going on an incline
Made my own throttle bracket from a throttle bracket from a Suzuki SJ410 carb and part of my old Accord's window regulator (yeah I am that bad)
It works but I hope that it won't break :p
Made the dizzy adapter plate
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Last edited by Hazwan; 10-21-2016 at 05:55 AM.
Folded for strength. Ideally I would use a thicker metal but oh well this is all I have from my scrap bin
It works!
It's a D15 dizzy but with F22 internals. The way its set up, I would have it mounted without hitting the thermostat housing without having to cut/trim too much and I don't need to redrill the cam key. I'm just cheap that I don't wanna get that F22 dizzy adapter plate else it would make my work way easier.
The D15 dizzy shaft has the CYP sensor mounted 180 degrees off. Not sure how that would affect things but I'm pretty sure that I wouldn't be able to mount the dizzy as I do now without redrilling the cam key. I had to rearrange the firing order though.
Just a matter of putting the crank on TDC and position the dizzy so sensors are pointing at the right position, find where the #1 is pointing and mount away!
Throttle body hits the under bonnetNot proud of this cut but I'll clean it up later. Also had to relocate the MAP sensor as it still hits the bonnet skin
FITV delete. I don't need that here! It never gets that cold
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Last edited by Hazwan; 10-01-2016 at 03:06 PM.
Wrong kind of IACV but hey I made an adapter plate for it. Also deleted the coolant pipes as I don't need them. It also sits upside down but oh well
Made my own intake pipe
Remember the O2 heater code? Apparently my JDM P06 never came with the heater circuit. Who knows if it even came with O2 sensor at all! No wonder why it throws a code for it even though I've got a proper 4 wire O2 sensor hooked up and all the wirings checked up okay.
Missing Q30 transistor for the O2 heater
No biggie! This is why I'm going with OBD1 in the first place - tuning!
Still waiting for my wideband O2 to get here. I'm gonna do this manually for now. Can't afford the fancy RTP stuff so I just have to get the datalog, adjust, burn the chip and repeat. Oh well
Datalog cable works
Also made a fancy bluetooth adapter for the datalog header
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The app is called Tunerview and I have it on my tablet
All done for now, just waiting for the tuning stuff and the surge tank. Drove about 100km so far and I didn't have any issues aside from the fuel starvation on low tank but I was expecting that. Will get that fixed with the surge tank so no biggie!
Power wise it feels quicker and a hell lot smoother than my carbs. If anything I might say the low to mid range is lacking compared to the carbs but I was expecting that with the shorter B16A intake. Hopefully tuning would help that but the engine feels alive after 5k. Too bad I just hit the limiter shortly after that hahah!
Not sure about the mileage yet but it looks promising so far. Will know better once everything is tuned as I'm currently running on stock P75 map
First test drive ever:
So smooth!
I can't resist to enable that launch control even though its kinda useless to me lol:
https://youtu.be/9CkK0owXfRI
To the uneducated 'car guys' here, they would think that I have a fast car or something with that launch control since they tend to brag that they have their Honda 'chipped with launch control' lol
And lastly, the last carb run before I pulled them out the next day
https://youtu.be/8NOjvsL3QTI
Last edited by Hazwan; 10-21-2016 at 05:54 AM.
oh hay looks like you where better off with the d15 dizzy in the end. the proper f22 one (the one i was supposed to get) would've had that top left mount aimed directly through the middle of the thermostat housing
Cool build. I like that homemade distributor adapter plate.
Wow x1000.
Amazing to see it all come together & the inventive ideas to make it something special, certainly much better than the basic vacuum distributor controls that would have been easier. shame the manifold was such a tight fit. Love the extra gauges & looking forwards to hearing how the tuning works out.
Incredible!
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
now thats a obd1 swap. glad i didnt have to do all that but it does make the car run way smoother
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Ha you guys have it easy being already fuel injected and still complain about the complexity of the OBD1 swap![]()
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