You think?!
More PICS!
Buffing done. Finally haha
Assembled most stuffs. I still gotta paint some trim pieces and I'm gonna plasti dip my chrome trims black since I hate chrome!
You think?!
More PICS!
Buffing done. Finally haha
Assembled most stuffs. I still gotta paint some trim pieces and I'm gonna plasti dip my chrome trims black since I hate chrome!
God I hate this 10 pics limit.
12 hours+ worth of wet sanding and buffing hard work pays off haha
I think its too low to my liking haha. I'm going to raise the front up a little
Cleaned and polished the bumper lens. Before at the bottom obviously. So much better
Looking so good man! Can't wait to see it all back together!
moar maor moar moar moar moar moar moar moar
Did somebody say MOAR PICS???????
Most of the interior pieces is back in. Carpet was pressure washed and it was nasty! Seats aren't perfect but I'll worry about that later (when I have the money hah)
Mirrors are black for now. I'm retrofitting something else with power folding function. Besides I HATE the way they look now.
Raised the front 1/2" inch and rear lowered another 1/2". Looks like I could use another 1/2" at the back to make it even but I'll focus on that later when I get the top hats and related pieces done. Wheel gap at the front looks alright but rears could definitely use another 1/2" lower. I'm also playing around with the idea of getting 16" wheels to fill the gaps better. Or stay with 15" but with thicker 195/55/15 tires. Not sure if I like the chunkier rubbers though.
Went out for a drive around the neighborhood and it felt.. alright. Stiffer than stock obviously but theres no bounce surprisingly?! Steering felt weird but then that can be expected since I need to get an I'm pretty sure it would be a lot better once I get the shocks stiffened and top hats extended. I was surprised at how well it rides right now.
i jelly of paint
SWEET! that is a great shade of red too
Hawtness!
I can hardly believe it's the same car!
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Yeah me too! I can't wait to get all my trims blacked out and reinstall. And new wheels. And and and... Shit I need money now. Somebody buy my accord now?
BTW I had my axle boots replaced by a shop today. I didn't want to get my hands dirty with nasty grease and crap and replacing them with brand new remanufactured unit just won't make any sense as these are the original ones and they still work perfectly fine. Only the boots are torn.
Did I mention that it cost less to replace all 4 boots and paying people to do it than replacing them with crappy reman units? Labor here is cheap so might as well take advantage of that. Fuck grease all over myself nope nope.
I'm still trying to figure out why it won't idle properly and would stall randomly while in gear. Sometimes. Which is weird. It would idle fine at 900ish RPM in gear with no signs of stalling but sometimes it would instantly drop down to under 600 and dies. Wtf I'm lost here. I can't find any vacuum leaks. Tried spraying everywhere with carb spray. RPM did not go up unless I sprayed over the carb mouths which obviously it would do that duh.
I had to set the idle at 1500 else it would drop to 600 and eventually dies when it's in gear and with my foot on the brake. Booster was bypassed and its still doing it so it rules out leaky booster. It also smells lean.
I hate carbs.
I have yet to set my timing properly (need to borrow a timing light first) but I consider myself to be experienced enough to set the timing with a vacuum gauge and by ears except I ran into troubles with the engine knocking when I had the timing set right (at least to my ears) and it retarding the timing till it won't knock would cause the engine to run like shit? I know I really should get a timing light but what kind of gas do these engine need stock? I wonder if shaving the head twice had bumped my compression a lot and requiring higher octane gas? No idea how much was shaved but I doubt it's that much but then remind me to get a timing light again tomorrow lol?
This is so frustrating
Last edited by Hazwan; 10-30-2013 at 06:36 AM.
Apparently my timing belt is off a tooth. Fixed that and the idle is so much better but my dizzy is shot so I'm still waiting to get my Accord sold so I can get a new dizzy and coil and hopefully some other mods and stuff done to the lude.
Can't and I don't wanna bother rebuilding the dizzy because I can't get the bottom cover screw thing that sits under the vacuum advance bearing off and its pissing me off. The bearings are frozen but I fixed that by spraying some penetrating oil to it. I'm pretty sure the mechanical advance is gone too. I could have fixed it if it wasn't for the stupid screws hah! Shaft has some play and replacing the bottom bearing is not gonna be easy so eff that I'll just get a new dizzy.
Idles alright now but i could be better. Found out that my coil is leaking a little bit too >< And I went through 20 liters worth of gas in less than 100km LOL stupid thing. But then I did WOT run half of the time and idles probably for more than 30 minutes from me trying to tune the carbs before I realized that my ignition timing is way off and apparently the timing belt is off a tooth. Yay me >
Anyway pics!!
Color matched and installed the CB7 side skirts.
Also painted my valve cover
Its green!!
Nah jk it was just a base coat for the pearl blue layer. Looks kinda teal from some angle but appears blue most of the time. Its sick!
Plasti dipped the chrome trim pieces black. Did I mention that I HATE chromes?
They look so much better in black
Went with plasti dip route this time as it sticks better to chrome without much prep work. Try and paint any chrome bits with regular paint and you'll know what I mean!
Certainly shows the effort that's gone in to it, beautiful.
i like the chrome on my accord. But on a red car like the prelude it looks goood black.
Looks way better in black, nice work. Is that clear coat on the red? Its super wet looking good, if not then what are you using on it after you bbuffed and wetsand??
Last edited by 2oodoor; 11-08-2013 at 03:49 AM.
Looks great. You missed some chrome on your tailz though. :P
Thanks! Took me over 6 weeks from start to finish. And I work on it at least 6 hours a day if not moreOriginally Posted by 79cord
Yes they work on grey or dark colored cars but definitely not on something bright like this. IMO chrome belongs only on classy/luxury cars not on something like this.
Yeah theres clear coat. There are 4 layers actually: primer, base, pearl and clear. Total of 9 layers at least if not more but yeah nothing special were used just some regular rubbing compound and polish. Tempted to try some expensive higher end stuff but can't afford shit right now. Besides it already looks this good gloss wise. Not too happy with the panel straightness honestly but I guess this is as good as a home made paintjob can get with limited amount of money and equipment
Yeah still debating if I should leave the chrome there or black that out too.
I seriously think that I need the black side and bumper molding to break off the red. I think its too much red now!
Oh and some guy were supposed to come over on Sunday (tomorrow) and look at the Accord but then he was supposed to reconfirm that hes coming over on Friday. Except its almost Sunday now..... I was hoping that I could get it sold by then since I seriously need some cash right now. Lude is going to be parked for a while since I don't feel like driving this stupid 12mpg until I get the ignition and carb issue fixed.
Speaking of that, I was trying to fix the dizzy play earlier. Found a brass bearing? on top just under the rotor and theres a serious amount of play right there. Bottom bearing is fine it was just the top ones where the shaft is wobbling so bad that it was touching the reluctor thinggy. Explains the crappy idle and shitty gas mileage. I replaced the bearing and theres an even gap all around on the reluctor and nothing is touching. All is good except when I reassembled everything back together, I broke off one of the wires just inside the reluctor and there is absolutely no way that it can be fixed so yeah its gonna be parked until I can afford to get another dizzy. Gotta love that!
Daaamn son! Two things... I knew it had to be timing related... second, your English is better than almost everyone who lives stateside. Badass. I don't think I would even try and read this if your English was all fucked up!
i like this (Y)
It's so TE8.
Ha! My English is far from being perfect but I'll try to use proper grammar and such haha. You gotta excuse the wall of text that I tend to do in my replies. I like explaining shit even though I suck at explaining things so most of my posts probably won't make any sense.
Speaking of timing. New dizzy (but not timed with a timing light. yet) and its still doing that 400rpm drop except the idle is soooo much smoother and quieter. It used to pop every once in a while in the exhaust. Kinda sounds like its missing. I'll recheck the timing and see if that fixed it. Else I'll just accept the fact that the autotragic transmission is probably on its way out. Yay excuses to get a 5 speed swap quicker!
Quoting A18A: te8 as! Still no idea what that means lol
Anyway updates!
My alternator has been acting up since the first day. The belt would screech during start up. New belts, cleaned the pulleys. Nothing. It would still screech under high load and during first start up. It also made this growling/clunking noise every once in a while. I replaced the bearings and brushes. That didn't fix it. Apparently the housing has worn out, allowing the bearing to move freely and causing some play and making that stupid noise. I've decided its not worth to even try and fix it anymore so I went and look for a replacement.
I recall seeing the stock alternator being the similar shape and size as the one in my 81 Accord. I had my Accord converted with a late 80s(?) Nissan Sentra alternator. They came with internal regulator and have slightly higher output - I think its 65A or something I don't remember.
Went to the yard earlier and snagged an alternator. I'm not 100% certain what its off but its the same unit as the B11 Sentra that I had in my Accord. Everything lines up except for the bottom bracket being slightly wider but can be spaced with a washer without any issues.
Pulley lines up properly but I'm not sure of the market differences. Mine has V-belt for both in my Prelude and the one I got from the Sentra. I believe I've seen pictures of them on the internet with ribbed belt pulley.
Anyway it works. No more noises! It charges at a healthy 14.5v during idle and headlamps on and A/C blower on fully blast. My A/C didn't work though.
Best part of all, it only cost me $20 for the alternator
I still need to figure out the wiring as the stock warning light on the dash won't come off when the engine is running.
The alternator needs 3 wires. 1 goes to the battery (main charging cable), another one as "S" or sense. It should sense the battery voltage and bump up or reduce the charging output while trying to maintain 14.5v at all times. Another one goes to the charging light on the dash. Not sure what I did wrong but it won't go off with the engine running. I did hook the wire directly to a T10 bulb and the other side to the battery and it works like it should. I don't recall doing much with my Accord but I'll keep this thread updated!
I also found this CVCC ET (ES??) carb for cheap and the same seller also has 2 distributors for sale. So I snagged them all for around $100! Not bad since a brand new reman distributor is going to cost me almost as much! I get a new unused remanufactured dizzy. One used dizzy that still works good and a complete CVCC carb assembly. Not sure if the carbs would work on mine but I only get them just to salvage some good parts out of it
CVCC carb is essentially a twin carb with a tiny little carb in the middle for the CVCC. I believe the 2 main carbs are jetted leaner than the non-CVCC motor but I need to reconfirm this once I tear them apart.
Check out that cute little throttle plate!
Well you will know better what to expect when/if you attack your cars carburetors now anyway.
New alternator still sounds tempting for my car just to eliminate external voltage regulator from the engine bay!
You also reminded me of an article I once read suggesting some late '80's GM cars (&others) included switching to stop the alternator (& air conditioner?) whilst at full throttle to give you more power.
Been having issues with my never-ending milky engine oil issue. It has to be a small leak on the headgasket (unlikely) or crack on the block or head. I don't feel like fixing the current engine so I poured a bottle of K-Seal in the coolant and that fixed it. Oil stayed clear and coolant level stays. Previously my overflow bottle would be empty and radiator level would go down a little bit after a short drive and oil would turn milky and dipstick level goes up by 5mm above the full mark. Doesn't take a genius to figure out where my coolant goes
I know that K-Seal isn't a permanent fix. It says so on the bottle but I doubt it would last long but I would be more than happy if it would last for a few months at least until I could get another engine.
Depending on what I could find, I probably would get a replacement ET or ES to drop in or if I could find one cheap enough I'll probably would build it with A20A bottom end.
We'll see what I could find and hopefully my current engine would last till then!
Found a set of CE28 reps for cheap and I just can't pass it so I... bought them ><
Wasn't even sure why I wasted my money on these instead of saving them for another engine but I guess I just can't stand the look of the old wheels and a steelies at the back.
I love thid thing bro. Also, that driver side front tire has a boubble in the sidewall. Get it replaced, because it could blow out over a hard bump.
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