Rear control arms and other things.

[chedda_jsauto]

First of all I want to thank all of you for the support through making the front extended top hats seen here:




With that I am moving on to make the following parts:

Rear upper adjustable control arms, with much more adjustability than the Moog ones, shooting for -3 Camber for you slammed cars.
Front Upper Control Ams, with more adjustability than then prelude conversion.
Rear lower control arms, full cnc aluminum, fresh energy suspension bushing, ready to install. These are going to be Heavy Duty.

Here are two EXACT renders I did tonight of the arms I would like to build. The arms are going to be a hard sale I know, but I want to sell them for around $500ish including everything, all 4 arms, bushings, ect.

[Legend_master]

Sooo need the front upper control arms. Will they come with ball joints? What does the price range look like?

[chedda_jsauto]

Yes they would come with a set of prelude ball joints, or if someone liked, we could let the buyer choose which brand he wanted.

I am not sure on the total cost yet, Maybe around $150 a set.

[chedda_jsauto]

So here is a little concept I want to throw at you guys. Rather than replacing the front upper control arm, how about we make the ball joint assembly adjustable for camber. Here is what I came up with, in the photo shows the camber adjuster with two slotted holes. The slotted holes are 1/4" longer than the prelude holes to add another 1 degree of adjustment. The spherical bearing would mount inside the hole, with a snap ring retainer. This allows for replacement. The bolt/pin assebly would be machined to match the thread pitch and taper of the stock ball joint to mount into the upper control arm. Each set of these would be around $150 + shipping. They would include both sides, two spherical ball bearings, snap rings, new hard ware, and ball joint pin and castle nut.

[Hash_man_Se_i]

Jordain,

I really like this idea for the control arm adjustment but I have had bad experience with spherical joints/bearings not lasting nearly as long as standard ball joints... What is your take on this? I don't put a ton of miles on my car, but friends and me have had issues with these before.

[apache07x]

I agree with spherical bearings wearing out too fast. Was an item that had to be changed regularly on the race car

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[chedda_jsauto]

I find spherical life length is 100% dependent on quality. Bronze race bearings seem to wear out quickly, Steel on steel are the longest lasting but can be noisy, Nylon Race seem to be the best of both worlds. I personally have had steel no steel sphericals in my trailing arms for over two years now without any noise, and I drive the car hard. I could get rid of the spherical for a ball joint of some type but the design would be much different. I also find that the sphericals bearings used typically are way too small for the application. Caster/camber kits have had sphericals in them for ages. Look at caster camber plates them selves, all of them have sphericals. Quality is number one, and no cheap bearings would be installed.

[chedda_jsauto]

Something like this bump steer kit we are working on, without all the spacers. You can see the pin and bearing assembly. The bearing would simply be a high end bearing in the aluminum housing.

[Tdurr]

I like this idea. I really do.... I dont have too much knowledge on spherical bearings tho so thats over my head.

[firefighterwhite89]

I really could use the front UCA adjustable plate/bearing. I don't know much about spherical bearings either. I'd think steel on aluminum would wear fairly quickly, but then again, I'm no engineer by far. I find pressed bearings are easily replaceable with help of the loan a tool program from auto store though.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Prevail 2

[Tdurr]

So here is a little concept I want to throw at you guys. Rather than replacing the front upper control arm, how about we make the ball joint assembly adjustable for camber. Here is what I came up with, in the photo shows the camber adjuster with two slotted holes. The slotted holes are 1/4" longer than the prelude holes to add another 1 degree of adjustment. The spherical bearing would mount inside the hole, with a snap ring retainer. This allows for replacement. The bolt/pin assebly would be machined to match the thread pitch and taper of the stock ball joint to mount into the upper control arm. Each set of these would be around $150 + shipping. They would include both sides, two spherical ball bearings, snap rings, new hard ware, and ball joint pin and castle nut.

somehow I missed the point of this post but good idea for the front. only thing is we would have to source the lude housings. still.