Rear Adjustable Upper Control Arms Feeler Post

[chedda_jsauto]

Doing some costing here to see what you guys would prefer for the rear adjusters. The product including new ball joints, allowing for +0 to -6 degrees of safe negative camber. (can be adjusted to -8) What material should I build them from? I also want to note that you will never have to buy another stock ball joint. You can simply replace the rod end ($20 a side) when they start to wear. I know you can get them from Moog, for less than what I am offering, but they don't have nearly the same about of adjustabilitly. Plus when one goes sour, you have to replace the entire thing. My part is designed to use Energy bushings, and Standard Rod ends, which means they could last a lifetime. All parts would have TIG welded flanged joints.



More Photos

[TasteDaBass86LXi]

How much ??


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[Rendon LX-i]

i have the moog ones there pretty good so far.

[Tdurr]

i have the moog ones there pretty good so far.

This is kinda how I feel. Spend ur time on something we dont have.

[bscanlan]

Getting ready to order shocks, upper rear arms, bushings, and brake lines. Just want to go stock but new. No performance desired outside of the beauty of the 3G.

[Rendon LX-i]

HUH? napa carry s these. i'm not understand what your saying. ON that note cheddas looks far more Superior then the napa ones lol

[obd0driver]

There all done now.

[chedda_jsauto]

The thing with making car parts is this, there are lots of competition, even big name companies like Moog. It's (building parts) being able to out perform the rest while still being affordable and offering features that others do not have. Lets have a look at my arm, the bushings are replaceable from Energy Suspensions. The ball joint (rod end) can be purchased whenever they start to wear out which is much cheaper than the whole arm from Moog or OEM. The part is adjustable much further than the Moog arms and can be adjusted up to -6 degrees for a slammed look. I also offer the arms in a -3 +3 length as well. These are made from stainless, not made in china, they are quality parts, and are what I consider Race Standards. Have a look at these photos of the prototype, it's on its way to Robert for testing.

[MessyHonda]

These look real good. Cant wait to get a set

[lostforawhile]

This is kinda how I feel. Spend ur time on something we dont have.

when the moog ones wear out, you have to toss the entire arm, you can get these rod ends from Pegasus racing and I believe summit and Jegs, this is a much better part then a stock one, when I get my tax refund, I'm getting a set, these should outlast the car, just the occasional rod end which are pretty cheap, I believe pegasus also has seals for the rod end to keep out grit

[lostforawhile]

anyone else noticed the hatch tends to kill the factory rears faster then the sedan or coupe? something about the weight distribution I guess

[lostforawhile]

here are the rod end seals these will keep out the grit https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...oduct=3077-001

[chedda_jsauto]

Here are some good photos of the piece installed and adjusted to max Camber. Thanks for looking. The pin design is going to get slight revision, nothing extreme. Overall the install went very smoothly and very easy. Adjustment is easy to dial in.
Thank you for the recommendation for the seals Lostforawhile. The Rod End you see in these photos is merely for prototyping, so it was a less expensive nickle plated part, where as the ones for sale are Nylon Race and Stainless. They seal up quite a bit better than the steel ones, less likely to make noise as well. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

[lostforawhile]

gorgeous parts

[Vanilla Sky]

These are built the same way I'd build them for any of my track cars. I'm not sure you'd ever be able to screw one of these up.

[Tdurr]

looks so nice...

[obd0driver]

I tested it out for him. That's a 17 being stuff in there. It rub some mean before the arm. Now clears everthing fine. No need to roll the fender's now. I even had 2 of my friends sit on the rear on a crub to max it out. Everything was fine and that only at 3 degrees of negative camber. I would never run wheels this big but we wanted to see if we can get it to fit.

[Tdurr]

front arms! thats what we need! and fender rolling is required if your doing it right :p

[lostforawhile]

I tested it out for him. That's a 17 being stuff in there. It rub some mean before the arm. Now clears everthing fine. No need to roll the fender's now. I even had 2 of my friends sit on the rear on a crub to max it out. Everything was fine and that only at 3 degrees of negative camber. I would never run wheels this big but we wanted to see if we can get it to fit.

it actually looked good with the big wheels fitting in there properly

[chedda_jsauto]

I would love to make a set of front arms with adjustable camber sets, but who is going to pony up. It is a little scarce around here for performance buys.

[88lxi-shortram]

how much are we looking for if you made the fronts. id pony up for sure if i had a base price and time to set it into a budget. i need to correct my -6 in the front lol

[Tdurr]

Id buy them.

You should know this lol

[Vanilla Sky]

I need to buy the rear uppers and the shifter bushings from you. One of these days, I won't be a broke mofo.

[Tdurr]

I need shifter bushings myself...

[Dr_Snooz]

Those are beautiful arms. I replaced my arms a couple years ago with whatever the parts store gave me (probably Moog). Last week I found the boots all blown out. They probably sat on some shelf for 20 years until they were sold to me. Twenty year old Moog parts are still no better than eBay junk.

Thanks, Chedda, for the work you're doing.