AB-B20Vtec

[cygnus x-1]

Weber 45 Dcoe Pair Two Weber 45 Dcoe Genuine European | eBay



The nice thing about the Webers is that you can do it with mostly off the shelf parts. No having to make a custom manifold. And there are no electronics to deal with so it's simpler.

Of course ITBs do give you more tuning flexibility so... pick you're poison.

I think if I was going to do another set of cheap DIY ITBs I would start with the Toyotas. Bike TBs are ok but my experiment with Hayabusa TBs ended up being far more difficult than I expected (and it ultimately failed). The Toyotas are just a better place to start from. I like my Extrudabodys but they're pretty spendy.

C|

[hondalude86]

Yeah Chris, it seems like the 45s are the safe bet. Either way, I hoping it'll all work out. The slightly better gearing (with options) and easy ots LSD are big advantages. Nearly everything is cheaper, and available for the b series... and out of the box, a more efficient motor. I'm not reinventing the wheel here... I just want to go fast and hopefully get some attention while I do it. What surprises me most is that there isn't hordes of people trying to convince me to just buy a civic... funny.

[Hauntd ca3]

What surprises me most is that there isn't hordes of people trying to convince me to just buy a civic... funny.

coz civics are like arseholes, everyones got one

[cygnus x-1]

Since you already have the 45s why not try them out and see how it goes? It would be easy enough to switch over later if you want to go bigger. Although the 50s use a different manifold pattern, so you would need a different manifold too.

C|

[hondalude86]

i'm pretty sure (or hoping) that the 50s use the same manifold style... If not I may be stuck with the 45's :'(. I'll be buying the Roland Manifold from those guys and probably have to modify the fuck out of it (again) and make it work... Currenly working on my WorkBench... Spent WAY to much on it, but i'm hoping it turns out good

[Hauntd ca3]

well, if 45s worked on bda escorts, they'll work on an accord

[cygnus x-1]

i'm pretty sure (or hoping) that the 50s use the same manifold style... If not I may be stuck with the 45's :'(. I'll be buying the Roland Manifold from those guys and probably have to modify the fuck out of it (again) and make it work... Currenly working on my WorkBench... Spent WAY to much on it, but i'm hoping it turns out good

You know I've looked around for like an hour trying to figure out if the 45s and the 50s are the same, and I still haven't figured it out. I found 1 post in a forum where someone said they are different but that's it. A cursory search made it look like they were different but now I'm not so sure.

C|

[hondalude86]

I've looked up the differences between the DCOE 45 vs the DCO 50 SP, and outside the obvious (ones bigger!!!) The DCO 50 SP doesnt have the choke mechanism... Really all I could Find... idk? we'll see... I would imagine (especially with the cost of everything) I won't being buying 50s unless I sell my 45s first, and as you said before, I may try to get it going on the 45s just in case for some odd reason I start hating webers

[gfrg88]

YES!!!!!!!!!! carbureted b series ftw!

[Rendon LX-i]

interesting

[hondalude86]

Just ordered the valve train for this motor... all skunk2 (blah); new high compression alpha series valves, titanium retainers, pro series valve springs, lost motion assemblies, and their vinton valve stem seals... all from amazon... saved 140$ over the best deals I could find elsewhere... still spent 800$... ugggg. Once I get all those parts I'll be ready to send my head to the machine shop. One step closer.

[gfrg88]

So jelly!!!!!!!

[hondalude86]

ok, here is a little update from whats been going on...

Her is basically the way she looks right now...

pulled the wiring out of the engine bay with plans to consolidate at the very least... try and clean up the bay without breaking any rules


most of my valve train parts... All Skunk2, Pro series Valve springs, Titanium retainers, Alpha series high comp valves, and valve stem seals... Still waiting on my lost motion assemblies to ship... uggg


some of the wiring!


the headless horseman!!! hahaha, b20 in the background and b16a in the foreground.


head pulled off and disassemble... Essentially ready when the lost motion assemblies come in

\
Not bad for a sub 200k b16


dirty combustion chambers


not to bad inside though

[AccordB20A]

subscribed. this should be a fun build (Y)

[2oodoor]

I about forgot you were doing this until you reminded me, subscribed

[hondalude86]

alright guys here's a little update...

So I pulled all my wiring out of the engine bay to reduce the crap that was in there and thin it out a bit. I've also been thinking about rerouting it with some pimp style connects (like we use at work) to help further clean it up. Still alot of work to go from here, but here is the semi before/after of the wiring progress.


before (even though it's hard to see)


unraveling the chaos!


An idea of what came out of that damn mess...


what's left without lengthening the wires or anything like that. I'll still have to unpin and use a different plug for the b series alternator, but It shouldn't be a big deal.


This is the fuse box from my 1987 (factory no AC base model)...


The fuse box for the race car. I've successfully unpinned all relays and fuses that aren't going to be needed from here on out... ( i did leave all the silly little jumpers for the grounds on the relays, only because they were all going to a common ground, and it didn't seem necessary to chance fuckin' it up)

So yea, that's what the wiring looks like at the moment.



Something like this is what i'm thinking about connectors wise. Get all the lighting going through one. Probably just reroute the wiring for the starter, exciter, and alternator... a smaller plug for the megajolt wiring stuff along with the wiring for the gauges (oil, h2o, and o2), and a 3 pin for the pick up (it's gotta be shielded and I really only need two wires) and that should be it... We'll see how it goes do to the cost! shit gets expensive fast. either way, i'm hoping to keep the wiring reliable and out of the way. Try and clean the bay up a smidge because of some the other plans I have. Enjoy!

[cygnus x-1]

Are you going to use actual mil-spec connectors? Where are you getting them from? There are plastic versions of those round connectors that are quite a bit cheaper than the metal ones (from Digikey for example). If you want the metal ones it's probably cheapest to try and find used ones on eBay and repin them. Those metal connectors are unbelievably expensive if you buy them new.

C|

[hondalude86]

We'll see about the connectors... still more planning needed for sure... may take my dash apart to retrieve the mega jolt wiring to get all the necessary parts loomed together and what not. At the very least I'll run my lighting wiring through the passenger side fender and run my engine essentials through the rear of the fire wire, much like it is now but with only the basics coming through... not all this other malarkey... also here are some more pictures!!!

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[hondalude86]

Stuff from my friend shady pro...


tada!!! B series swap parts are a go!!! I not impressed with the condition of the subframe...and I'm thinking it's for an accord... any thoughts on the possible advantages of running an accord subframe over a prelude?

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[hondalude86]

Just tried that passenger side mount to frame... yeah definitely going to be weld in...again. so far as I can tell I've gotta build up the driver side to accept the driver side motor mount and definitely gusset and support the driver side frame Mount like on my white car. Still to be determined on my rear motor mount. Everything else looks fairly kosher

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[2oodoor]

Nice! Intermediate shaft looks farked, you have to build a hybrid cv shaft outta that anyway? Are the spindle ends right for your car?
MIG, die grinder, chop saw and a good jig table and plenty of clampss ...anything can be done!

[hondalude86]

Na, the intermediate shaft is good. This is the place racing kit for the 3rd gen accords... so the axels will work. Its the same kit that was on my old white prelude.

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[gfrg88]

Nice find!

[hondalude86]

I'm certainly way behind schedule so far. Lately all I've got done was press the bushings in the rear lcas and press new bushings in some donor Si lower lcas. Bought my camshafts like a month ago, but I've had some big expenses (new gf, and I owe a massive amount to my taxes). At this point I'll be happy to get the car running under its own power. So I need at the very least, my head work (300$), inlet manifold (300$), header (300$) and the !machine work for the trigger wheel to be completed. Should be able to get it back on the road like that at least!