Rebuilt Engine - In need of assistance!

[xXMarTiNXx]

A while back, I toasted my engine due to leaking radiator.... it seized.... although it started back up, I could feel something not working right so I began to disassemble .... The head gasket was blown. Went further- Piston oil passages were cloged and barings were scored .. at 211k it was time for a rebuild ... a pricy one...

Since everything else in the car is in good working order and fixing it would be cheaper than buying a possibly worse off car... I went ahead with the rebuild

Engine: A20A1
Head:
-replaced valve stem seals
-valve grind
-surfaced
Block:
-machine overbore to .50mm and crank turned to .25mm main and rod
-surfaced
-cleaned
-installed NPR cast pistons .50mm oversized
-installed. 25mm undersized ACL main bearings and MTX rod bearings
Assembly:
-Stone head gasket set and bock set
-new radiator and ect sensor
-new front and right engine mounts
-new honda timing belt and koyo belt tensioner
-replaced little bits here and there ...

The engine is already assembled, tourqed to spec , and in the engine bay. The only thing left to do is connect the vacuum hoses and electrical.

The problem - I'm getting extremely paranoid on how to properly do the first start up and if my previous carb setup was even proper... previously the choke wouldn't engage and id have to keep my foot on the gas for a bit while it stabilized. Afterwards it would run fine almost no missfires . I had replaced the carburetor with one from the junkyard and dialed up the throttle stop to recomfesate for low rpm to the point where the linkage no longer touches the choke knoch plate? I had not realized this before and would have tried to fix it then. But now I'm worried that my previous setup was pushing too much fuel and could ruin my rebuild...

A bit of assistance from experienced members would be greatly appreciated

- last questions ... is the valve connected to hose #5 next the the black airbox on the intake manifold supposed to be leaking? How do I check the thermowax valves? Where can I get an easier to follow vacuum hose diagram?

[Dr_Snooz]

One thing at a time. You know that the old setup worked, so go with it for the first startup on the new engine. It won't kill it in the first few months. If you're running too rich, this will tend to break your catalytic converter before the engine itself. When you've satisfied yourself that oil pressure is fine and the rebuild is solid, move on to the carb. It's always easier to close one can of worms before opening another. You don't want to be in a position of having to troubleshoot both the carb and the engine at the same time.

As for the vacuum routing, there should be a diagram on the hood. If there isn't, then it becomes a matter of starting with the hoses you're sure about and working your way to the ones you aren't sure about. As you eliminate the known hoses, you'll find that the unknown hoses will tend to point to where they connect and not reach where they don't connect. If you have two hoses and two connections in roughly the same spot, remember that Honda doesn't cross lines in the bay. Run them parallel and you'll be good.

[xXMarTiNXx]

Thanks for the reply, after stressing out, I figured I should just do that . But the only worries I have left are, what if I was running my car off the idle circuit ..? Would it be running lean? But I'm thinking, if I was, my car wouldn't have been running as well as it was before I toasted it?

[Dr_Snooz]

You're in Cali, so if you're too far out of adjustment, you'll fail a smog test. Just get the car running and then worry about the carb. If you haven't downloaded the shop manual, do so. It will describe the operation and adjustment of the carb in great detail. It's an invaluable resource.

[xXMarTiNXx]

Thank you for the advice. I really appreciate it I havent Finnished the vacuum tubing, too many toasted hoses.... so I haven't tried running it just yet. I have one more little question. I'm going to run 5w30 for the break in. After the break in is done with, should I just stick with it? Or go up to 10w30-40?

[Dr_Snooz]

I always follow the chart in the Owner's Manual. Here in the Valley, that means 10/40 because it gets so hot.

[xXMarTiNXx]

So I put the whole thing together now... its ready to go.... almost.
I just have to replace 1fule hose and get a few hose clamps. I oiled the cam and cranked it to see if it would get oil pressure on my guage.... and the guage went way higher than 80 psi.... is it normal for it to go that high before break in... or is it just because I didn't start it...?

I'm certain I installed all the oil components properly .....

[Dr_Snooz]

It's hard to tell much from a single blip on the gauge. If you start it and it stays above 80 psi, then you're looking at a stuck relief valve in the oil filter base.

[xXMarTiNXx]

Would it hurt to check it before actually starting it?

BTW- thanks for all the replies to my paranoid noobish questions, I really appreciate it

[2oodoor]

I would use factory oil warning system and use a guage kit as accessory. 25 cut on the crank and undersized bearings with new pistins...would definately use zinc break in oil.
It sucks you cant do a Weber carb conversion on all the work youve done, makes it all so much neater and easier.
As for the pressure keep an eye on it, and make absolute certain the pvc system is in tip top order,

[Dr_Snooz]

Would it hurt to check it before actually starting it?

The relief valve? Couldn't hurt. The write up is in the manual, just pull it out and check for scoring. I don't imagine it will be bad if you weren't having trouble with it before.

[xXMarTiNXx]

Here's an update ... it started and ran beautifully but I noticed a fule leak thus I had to shut it off. Its leaking out of the float adjustment ...

Good:
Started and ran well
No oil or water leaks

Bad:
Carb is leaking fuel..
Oil preassure guage stayed above 80...
Car is now off and oil pressure guage is stuck at 80 psi...

I checked to see if there was still pressure in the oil system by removing the oil pressure hose and discovered that since the guage read passed its max ... it was damaged, thus its stayed at 80. I now have a broken guage... I'm going to have to check the oil relief valve now (btw) I blew air into the oil pressure hose, although it was a little difficult because of how little the tube is, I was able to blow air in.

I replaced the seals in the float adjustment so that problem should be fixed

I'm getting oil to the cam and there isn't anything that could bock the crank passages, that I wouldn't notice since it probably would have ate through the barings and made noise, if they were starved on startup...?

Again thanks for the replies, both of you have been of great help!

One last question, for now- the oil pressure guage should work regardless of how restricted the tube is right? Because at this point I think I may be getting a bad read...

[xXMarTiNXx]

I took the oil filter base off, removed the cap.... the damn thing was stuck! I'm glad I found the problem but now I'm not sure what to do ... ? Autoparts in my area don't carry the valve and the inside the bore looks scored up as well... should I get annother from the junk?

If I push it back in, it gets stuck again... is it supposed to do that? The bore is pretty scorn.

[xXMarTiNXx]

Hmm.... Nobody has replied in a while.... Well i changed the filter base with a valve that moves freely . I think my problems should be solved.

I guess this should be my real last question. What is the proper break in procedure for these engines? I can't get a solid answer from anyone I know...

[Dr_Snooz]

The correct break-in procedure is outlined in the Owner's Manual. I believe it says that you shouldn't rev above 3k rpm for the first 500 miles. Beyond that, there are many differing opinions on the proper way to break in a new engine. Some say baby the engine. Others say flog it. I've tried both methods and they both seem to work equally well. Just pick a method and stick with it.

[firefighterwhite89]

When I rebuilt mine, I first started it and let it just idle for about 30 minutes, then drove the piss out of it quite hard. No issues at all

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Prevail 2

[xXMarTiNXx]

Car is running.... Okay ish.... The carb is giving me problems.. Seems as if the throttle stop isn't working properly :'( after accelerating and coming to a stop... Sometimes the rpm drops below the 750 mark, thus it runs like crap.... Coming to a stop... Seems as is the carb isn't giving the proper mixture and it missfires quite a bit too

[Dr_Snooz]

Well, if you have good oil pressure and the timing is correct, then now is the time to fire up on that carb. Given the difficulty of rebuilding the factory carb, and the fact that you're in California, I would start by combing through the carb section of the manual and verifying the operation of all the dash pots, solenoids and vacuum actuators on the carb. If that doesn't do it, then proceed into a rebuild with the greatest care.

[Oldblueaccord]

Hmm.... Nobody has replied in a while.... Well i changed the filter base with a valve that moves freely . I think my problems should be solved.

I guess this should be my real last question. What is the proper break in procedure for these engines? I can't get a solid answer from anyone I know...

Sounds like your well on your way.


I would just keep good eye on the oil pressure and temp guages and drive it normal. As far as ring seat id ask the macinist what type rings he used and follow the ring manufactures recommend procedure.

Plus keep an eye on the oil level first thousand miles.

[xXMarTiNXx]

You see, I rebuilt it. I used NPR rings, They came with the NPR piston set. I'm not sure if they were steel or iron but I'm sure they weren't chrome plated

[xXMarTiNXx]

A bit of an update (for anybody that is interested) break in is done. Ive put a total of about 5000 miles in it already!

Good news it that my car pasded smog

Not so good, my car isn't miss firing but it has a pulse like if it was.... It only does it around 1.2k rpm..
Any ideas?

[xXMarTiNXx]

Dead thread? Yeah i guess...

[firefighterwhite89]

Vacuum advance issues?

Sent from my SPH-M840 using Tapatalk