Help - Too much fuel!

[BenPutnam]

Hello everyone, I just bought a 88 Honda Accord for $100 and as expected it has some problems. The biggest problem being that it is smoking like a train. The first thing I thought was rings but I pulled a plug and no carbon or oil but TONS of gas. This leads into my second problem which is it won't idle and when I put it in gear and try to go it just spits and spudders along until it finally dies. I took the air cleaner off and looked down in the carb and I could see a lake of fuel laying in there.

I'm thinking I may have a bad PCV valve combined with a stuck float or something?

This is the first time I have ever seen a Honda motor so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Ben

:smokin:

[Greg]

Man, I've been trying to diagnose all kinds of erratic behavior from my carb. It's driving me crazy. But let me give you the best advice I can give:

- check for vacuum leaks!

I don't understand everything on the carb as well as other guys here, but my fidgeting with it has taught me that vacuum leaks can cause the thing to run too much gas.

I had a leak to the choke opener at some point, and it would run @ like 4000 RPM.

Anyway, this could be the result of a million things. check for vacuum leak first and get back to us if there is none.

*** Also, is your car M/T or A/T? It sounded from your description that it was A/T, but I'm not sure.

[BenPutnam]

It's an AT.

I looked for vacuum leaks and didn't see any right off. This car seems to be pretty unmolested as far as the emissions and all that are concerned.

Ben

:smokin:

[A20A1]

Yes you want to check your float needle valve.

but there are other things like the ignition fuel solenoid that is supposed to stop the fuel from going into the barrels when the car is shut off.

and also the air fuel mixture screw... but this isn't easy to remove and youlll get fuel leaking out the back of the carb if it was missing.


you can find pics of how to remove the needle valve on my web site:

but before you adjust or remove the valve... make sure you have access to the right size o-ring to replace the old ones on the valve... because if you don't replace them... even if the old ones are intack upon removal... i gaurantee that they will leak when reinstalled.

http://www.geocities.com/accord89lx/Carbtech.html

[A20A1]

Sorry if Geocities is being a shit about data transfer... my web site should be back up tomorrow.

[BenPutnam]

Update:

The choke seems to be staying closed when it should not be. I can start the car and it runs rough until I run around to the front and hold the choke partially open then it runs great. Once it warms up the choke seems too open too far and I have to hold it partially closed.

Any Ideas?

I'm about ready to pull all this crap off and put a Holley on it.

Thanks,

Ben

[DanG86LX]

Well, if u locate the choke opener, pull the 2 vacuum lines #18 and #26 and plug @ opener, then start the car and look at the choke. It should be partially open like 45deg, opener arm completely retracted (lever against the housing).
Beware, with #18 off, ur fast idle unloader is partially disabled, so u may rely on retracting choke to pull fast idle cam off... Does this make any sense?

[shepherd79]

you may want to get a new carb or at least get another one from junk yard.
this way you can trouble shoot some vacuum problems easier.

[BenPutnam]

I cleaned and lubed the choke linkage last night as well as replaced the 2 fuel filters and it seems to be running well when it's cold but when it warms up it won't idle. I'm going to keep messing with it.

Thanks for all your help.

Ben

:smokin: