High Idle 2500rpm and won't come down!

[Dr_Snooz]

I dont think you can get real "carb soak" that works anymore to even clean one.

Certainly not in Cali where CARB is ever at the ready to outlaw anything effective. My answer is and has been to be religious about running good, high detergent gas. Don't let the carb get dirty and you won't need to worry about getting it clean.

It is the litany of $hit that is strung at the end of those miles of vac tube; What were those engineers thinking?

Yeah. Thank stupid CARB again. Honda did great work coming up with clever ways to meet all of CARB's irrational requirements, like HCs in the 4/10ths of a second after you let your foot off the gas, etc. Please. Doing so required a lot of extra stuff attached to the carb. In every other state, the cars are smog exempt now, but CARB rides to the rescue again, forcing old cars in Cali to meet the same smog requirements they did when new. That wouldn't be a problem if you could get replacement parts, but why would Honda make parts to keep your old car running when they know that CARB will truncheon you into buying a new Honda if they stop?

I've pulled my back out, landed in the ER from a torn rotator cuff,

You have your hands full. Your health is more important than any car, so get that handled first. Get well soon.

[g.frost]

......... Put that carburetor on the car, got everything hooked up like it should be, and NOTHING! The carb puked gas on the ground under the car, didn't want to run, let alone idle, and puffed fuel smoke as it flooded out. ........

Here's my WAG theory on what happened:

Between unhooking the fuel line and attaching to your fuel line, a tiny perfectly shaped piece of crud made it's way into the fuel line and wedged in place at the float needle valve where it now holds the valve open, flooding the float chamber.

(An external fuel leak would flood the ground but not the engine....)

[TNTumbler]

The 3g I got the carb off of wasn't mint by any means. She had been hit and hit hard by a full size vehicle (truck or SUV) as she was dragging her left rear tire in the rocks when it would get hung up on the rear bumper. I wanted the whole engine because it had 65k miles on it! But I couldn't afford $400.00 + no way to get it home. Hospital here suck when it comes to giving out meds. Gave me Tramadol which does nothing more than piss off my guts. I searched the car over this morning and can't find the source of the fuel leak, so I dunno. Just tired of fighting with cars.

[g.frost]

I'm getting a zero on the Diagnostic Technician Meter.

[TNTumbler]

Well between two carburetors, a rebuild, kit and a good friend who knows these cars very well I got the carburetor rebuilt. Found li'l things wrong, but its rebuilt with new parts, diaphragms, and gaskets. I installed it on the car, and she fired up beautifully. Ran like a champ without any flooding, sputtering, or anything. BUT she's still idling at 2500 to 2800. So he's coming over tomorrow to fine tune the carburetor after reading through the manual. So I think we are on the right path. Hopefully this will solve the issue, but its not stopping me from selling the car. LoL

[TNTumbler]

Thermovalve tests done! All checked out, NEXT?? I'm sick of checking things over and over and over again and IT NOT BEING THE PROBLEM! Since I can't get anyone to understand I'm not driving this car with it idling this high, my only option is to scrap the thing. I really and honestly am going to hate to think of the idea, but the two calls I got on the car I was offered only $400 and 500 for the car! I'm not giving it away after all I have sank into it trying to fix it.

[g.frost]

There is only one cam I know of that will hold the throttle plate open to 2500rpm... it's not the A/C or Automatic Idle Boost...

[TNTumbler]

Found the problem! A friend who works for Honda (he worked with me at the Marysville, OH plant as well) and I found the issue. Didn't realize a bent idle screw would cause so much trouble. But when rebuilding the carburetor we did find 2 leaks (one vacuum, one gas), several bad diaphragms, and a sticky float. So the carburetor did need rebuilt and it is done now. Got her idling smooth as silk at 800rpm with no missing, hiccups, etc. I am still amazed how one small overlooked (and never thought of) idle screw could cause this much headache and heartache!!! So she's fixed and I'm happy. But I'm not pulling her off Craigslist just yet.

Dr_Snooz you said it would be something simple and sure enough it was. LmAo I can't say I feel like an idiot but I sure know to look at EVERYTHING next time.

[Dr_Snooz]

Yay! Great job sticking with it and seeing the problem through to a conclusion.

[Dr_Snooz]

But I'm not pulling her off Craigslist just yet.

Just saw your other thread. You may as well admit that this car is yours forever. You spent days of frustration getting the carb fixed and didn't stop until you did. Heck, you even rebuilt the legendary Keihin, impossible-to-rebuild carb. Then you were showing it the following weekend. This car is under your skin bro. LOL

[TNTumbler]

Well, she's mine and going to stay that way for a very long time. You know you love your 3G if you spend 4.5 hours roaming 2 salvage yards to find at least 3 rubber nubbers for you clutch/starter safety switch, cruise cancellation switch, and your brake light switch. In the process finding out its sort of a cross breed. The starter safety switch and cruise cancellation switch are both Prelude units (still factory originals) and I have a shorter than average throw (like a Prelude manual shift) shifter. Still sourcing numbers on the tranny so I can figure out if its Accord or Prelude (its the original to the car). Hmmm

[HALX2.0]

Put vacuum gauge on the line 18 to fast idle unloader and pump it down. Does the idle drop? Does this line hold vacuum (it should when warmed up) If not, you can test thermovalve A by capping the port 17 on it to block the leak back line. Does line 18 hold a vacuum now? Does the fast idle drop now? YES: replace thermovalve A. No: leak must be in the fast idle unloader section. ...

If the fast idle unloader now appears to be the problem, test the ports on it directly: they should hold vac when pumped down and should dis-engage the fast idle cam: verify/test this function...

Edit to add: note that #19 also goes to charcoal canister purge; check this pumps down, holds vac as well.

g/frost, a question on this test : Is the engine running during this tes: Put vacuum gauge on the line 18 to fast idle unloader and pump it down. etc