Big break problem.

[obd0driver]

OK guys I need a bite of help here. I've upgraded the front break to the itr set up and I also have add the rear disk with the legend upgrade as well. New line alround. In theory I should stop on a dime. Now I have no breaks and Mt Mc keeps going bad and leaking in to my boosters. I've try a new one and it did the same thing.

Here's the question I looking for some input on.
From what I understand a 94 Accord booster and Mc with bolt in and work but the cost is about $280.
Or I can go with some like Chase Bays Brake Booster Eliminator which runs $199 but I'm not sure if I need the other parts they say may be needed.
Chase Bays Brake Booster Eliminator - Universal Chase Bays - ChaseBays.com

What should I do. Anyone input Is good input

[cygnus x-1]

OK guys I need a bite of help here. I've upgraded the front break to the itr set up and I also have add the rear disk with the legend upgrade as well. New line alround. In theory I should stop on a dime. Now I have no breaks and Mt Mc keeps going bad and leaking in to my boosters. I've try a new one and it did the same thing.

Here's the question I looking for some input on.
From what I understand a 94 Accord booster and Mc with bolt in and work but the cost is about $280.
Or I can go with some like Chase Bays Brake Booster Eliminator which runs $199 but I'm not sure if I need the other parts they say may be needed.
Chase Bays Brake Booster Eliminator - Universal Chase Bays - ChaseBays.com

What should I do. Anyone input Is good input

The MC leaking has nothing to do with everything else. If it's leaking there's something wrong with it, no matter what kind it is. So you need to get one that doesn't leak. If it's new, exchange it for another one.

As far as the brakes not working, since you've replaced nearly everything in the system I'm betting there is still air in the lines or calipers. It takes a LOT of bleeding to fill a totally dry system. You also MUST bleed the MC first, preferably off the car. If it has any air in it, the pedal will feel squishy and you may never get full braking power.

About the booster, I wouldn't bother replacing it unless there is something wrong with it (leaks, super rusty, etc.). The stock booster is fine with the rest of what you have.

For the size calipers you have you probably want a 15/16" MC. A 7/8" MC should also work but it may be on the small side, which means it will take more pedal travel. It will also be more sensitive to air in the lines.

I would not recommend eliminating the booster unless it's either a show car only, or you know EXACTLY what you're doing. It's possible to have a fully manual disc brake setup that stops well, but it has to be setup correctly for the car, which probably means changing the pedal ratio to make up for the assist you were getting from the booster. Even when setup correctly it will take more pedal effort to operate and it will feel different (more pedal travel) from a power assisted setup.


C|

[Oldblueaccord]

The MC leaking has nothing to do with everything else. If it's leaking there's something wrong with it, no matter what kind it is. So you need to get one that doesn't leak. If it's new, exchange it for another one.

As far as the brakes not working, since you've replaced nearly everything in the system I'm betting there is still air in the lines or calipers. It takes a LOT of bleeding to fill a totally dry system. You also MUST bleed the MC first, preferably off the car. If it has any air in it, the pedal will feel squishy and you may never get full braking power.

About the booster, I wouldn't bother replacing it unless there is something wrong with it (leaks, super rusty, etc.). The stock booster is fine with the rest of what you have.

For the size calipers you have you probably want a 15/16" MC. A 7/8" MC should also work but it may be on the small side, which means it will take more pedal travel. It will also be more sensitive to air in the lines.

I would not recommend eliminating the booster unless it's either a show car only, or you know EXACTLY what you're doing. It's possible to have a fully manual disc brake setup that stops well, but it has to be setup correctly for the car, which probably means changing the pedal ratio to make up for the assist you were getting from the booster. Even when setup correctly it will take more pedal effort to operate and it will feel different (more pedal travel) from a power assisted setup.


C|

Agree with cygnus. I have the Type R fronts with the stock lxi MC and I don't have any problems. Two things I can add are.

Bleeder screws need to be in the up position (top) to let out air.

When bleeding your brakes the person pushing the brake pedal might be pushing way to hard and far breaking the MC. You can drive the piston right thru the MC by forcing the brake pedal "to the floor". Just push untill it stops slow and steady.

[obd0driver]

I hear you guys but the rubber seal off the mc was in the boost and the brake fluid is leaking in the to booster. So no matter what I would do I'll have to get both the booster and MC even if that's fits it I'll spend $200+ to replace it all.

So I had a buddy the had a will wood 7/8 MC with delete plate for a ef civic that he wasn't using so I got a freebie. So all I needed was new line's. Went to a local shops and got some made and grab a 40/40 pv off a sei. Only cost me $135. Problem solved. So I basically have the chase bay power booster delete for less than a stock replacement would cost. I know I jumped the gun a bit but I had try it and at this point something is bettet then nothing right. Here's a shot

Untitled by Richrad T., on Flickr

[Oldblueaccord]

I hear you guys but the rubber seal off the mc was in the boost and the brake fluid is leaking in the to booster. So no matter what I would do I'll have to get both the booster and MC even if that's fits it I'll spend $200+ to replace it all.

So I had a buddy the had a will wood 7/8 MC with delete plate for a ef civic that he wasn't using so I got a freebie. So all I needed was new line's. Went to a local shops and got some made and grab a 40/40 pv off a sei. Only cost me $135. Problem solved. So I basically have the chase bay power booster delete for less than a stock replacement would cost. I know I jumped the gun a bit but I had try it and at this point something is bettet then nothing right. Here's a shot

Untitled by Richrad T., on Flickr

My original MC leaked into my booster at least to the front and I just changed the MC keep the original booster its been fine.

On the stock setup the pushrod to the MC is adjustable I hope ours is enough you can use that set up. Your front breaks will start to drag if its not set right. Youll find out in about 10 miles of steady driving. Nothing really wrong with not having a booster plenty of older American cars came that way. You will have to see if you like the pedal feel. Im guessing it will be very hard with the stock brake pedal set up leverage wise.

[Tdurr]

On my 4door my booster went out, had to flip thw check valve to drive home (it locked the brakes up leaving summer ia in atl) the pedal feel was terrible. Stupid stiff to get it to start slowing down. I never followed people too closely after that. Good luck, and I thought a jy booster would be plenty cheap.

[obd0driver]

All done guy it's 1000 times better it's even better the stock. As far and the brake fill it's gonna take so getting use to but it's really firm the car stops hard. They grab nice not much extra travel at all. The 7/8 will wood Mc keeps pedal feel really close to stock feeling when everything is new. I also looks really nice and clean. So much more room

[obd0driver]

[gfrg88]

Holy shit! That's nice, man! So does the pedal feel as stiff as when the car isn't running?

[obd0driver]

It's stiff like the car isn't running all the time. If you were to pump you brake and hold it that's how firm it is 90% of the time. When you're a high speed you have to really get on the pedal but it stops hard. Best upgrade to the brakes. I can see how some people wouldn't like it. The feel throw is some what the same feel as stock but the travel did change a bit.

[LewZur]

It looks clean. Any interference with the air cleaner?

[obd0driver]

It looks clean. Any interference with the air cleaner?

nope not as all. 90 bends would have mad it a little better but we knew that's it may hit so we did 40 bend ls to make sure. The only thing we have to modify was the bracket the links the pedal the the MC because is was to short stock. So we welded a nut the the bracket lol.
Untitled by Richrad T., on Flickr

[cygnus x-1]

Great work! I was in the process of doing this to my Prelude but still haven't gotten everything put back together. With the smaller 7/8" MC you will have a bit more hydraulic leverage so you might be ok with the stock pedal ratio. Then it comes down to whether there is enough travel in the MC to push enough fluid to the calipers. Sounds like your good though.

You said you have ITR calipers... what size rotors front and rear?

C|

[obd0driver]

Great work! I was in process of doing this to my Prelude but still haven't gotten everything put back together. With the smaller 7/8" MC you will have a bit more hydraulic leverage so you might be ok with the stock pedal ratio. Then it comes down to whether there is enough travel in the MC to push enough fluid to the calipers. Sounds like your good though.

You said you have ITR calipers... what size rotors front and rear?

C|

The front are itr rotors so 10in the and the rear cam they way there so I'm not sure what size. I can tell you that they are sloted and have the legend upgrade to them. But other the that idk