is there a direct fit replacement amplifier for my 1989 Accord SE-i
is there a direct fit replacement amplifier for my 1989 Accord SE-i
For the Bose (Buy Other Sound Equipment) system? Sadly no. Generally the Bose stuff is designed on a per vehicle basis, so the system that is in an Accord will be different from that of a Bose system in an Acura TL.
Best bet is find another amp from the wrecker. Or get crafty and turf out the OEM amp and wire in an aftermarket multi channel amp in its place and hope that the 25 year old speakers hold up. Or option #3, replace speakers, replace head unit, do a wired bypass of the amp and call it good. Option #3 is probably the most cost effective and easiest, drop in new 6" all the way around, deck, and a little wiring and done.
About the only thing you can do is replace it with a working one or have it repaired. I've wanted to get my hands on one of these to see if I can find the faults in them, but I haven't found one, and no one seems willing to donate one to science.
you have the option of keeping your steering wheel controls working with an aftermarket stereo, you use an SWi-X unit, it reads the resistance of the buttons in the wheel, and you program it using the remote control from the aftermarket stereo, you can assign the buttons to control whatever function you want. it copies the infrared signals from the remote and mimics then when you push the steering wheel buttons
he wasn't asking about replacing the head unit. As mentioned by dieselgus , you have a few options here. I would suggest just splicing in an aftermarket amplifier and adding new speaker to replace the 20+ y/o ones/ IIRC its a white/green and a yellow /red wire to the amplifier and the speaker wires, shouldn't be hard to splice
1989 Accord Lx-i hatchback (current DD project)
1986 Olds Cutlass 442 clone (never ending project)
3Geez resident body man
Owner of Wreck-less auto body
I believe the Bose amp is a wee bit different. Once I have one in my hands, I can confirm my suspicions.
I have two for sale. Pm me.
Sure is interesting to see the big differences in the amps. The one on the right has a TON of shielding cans, while the one on the left only has that one. Completely different internal construction. This is why I need both of the Bose amps for testing and prototyping.
Yeah I was thinking the same thing
Well, I'll have one on the way soon. That just means I need to find someone that can donate the other to science.
The outputs on the SEi Bose deck are just regular line outs. I've hooked the outputs into the line in on my laptop before. There's no reason you couldn't cut the wires to the original amp and hook them to an aftermarket amp.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRQ8vuWKlbI
Except that I believe the Bose amp to only be 3 channels, with the rear speakers being one channel with time delay with a fairly low crossover point, used only for rear fill.
That would explain why the front speakers are extended range drivers in ported enclosures and the rears are just plain paper 6x9s in the rear deck.
That sounds like classic Bose. Do some gimmicky thing with a bunch of crap. Then charge a fortune for it.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
That's not really a gimmick. It's a way to simulate a "voiceless" channel for rear fill. Changing the inputs around could also leave one with a center channel, then both stereo channels combined and crossed over for your subwoofer. That's how the classic Dolby Pro Logic worked, which was an extension of quadraphonic stereo.
My stereo build is going to be set up in a similar fashion, so I'm *really* interested in the Bose stuff. Mine will use a digital sound processor to handle the heavy lifting, though.
Additionally, I think most of you guys would enjoy the sound of the Bose setup if it is indeed set up that way. The front drivers might be similar to what they used in their big home speakers, which extended fairly high. They did need a lot of EQ for bass, even the big ones. With a car, they can simply offload the bass duty to the pair of sensitive paper 6x9 speakers and provide proper rear fill.
If you've ever seen one of the Bose Acoustomass systems, you'd be somewhat familiar with this arrangement, since they use 2 pairs of cubes with 3" drivers for each channel, but let the bandpass subwoofer handle everything from about 150Mhz down, which makes locating the Acoustomass sub in a Bose system at home critical.
Bookmarks