Oh yay. Progress. Tell the dude I hope his wife pulls through swiftly.
Oh yay. Progress. Tell the dude I hope his wife pulls through swiftly.
Originally Posted by CAH
wow they look nice
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
You'll have to come out there with me one night. Its deep in Oakley so it is a bit far. But if planned right we can go when you put your car on the dyno at redzone because that's a more then 3/4 of the trip.
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haha. i was about to say the same thing when we Dyno we could check them out.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Update.
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good good....
Update as of last night. They also posted a similar photos on ig.
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Update hoping to have a couple ready to go get boxes for them to have them shipped out soon
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Yay
Yup date
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Think it will happen before my bday?!
or at all?
'88 LX-i Coupe --- LS/Vtec
'08 Accord EX-L 6-6 --- Daily Duty
It's gonna still gonna happen i was just at the shoo with messy to test fit the product on his car to make sure the fit was good. However messy trunk lid has also had fiberglass work done to it so the wings didn't sit a 100% flush. I refuse to send anyone anything the is less the perfect as my name will be on it. Mess and i have discussed going over there on the weekends to lend a hand in hopes to get them done sooner. They guy also got some new mounts to use which need to tested. I plan to pull the trunk from my car because i know that it's in better shape then the 3 we have had to use so far and it still has the online for my duckbill on it for reference. I do apologize for not updating here as offten but most everyone has given me a phone call text or pm. I did hit them last night for a update and plan to stop by the shop Friday night of Saturday evening to grab some photos of the new mounting hardware and possibly test fit them to my trunk lid for photos so that you guys can see why I refused to take them or send them out.
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Last edited by obd0driver; 03-30-2017 at 08:01 AM.
Need it finished and at my door before Memorial Day how's thatseriously> I have a small window of time to work on the car before it gets 110 degrees outside everyday. Again I believe your'e nit picking these dam things, experience says any aftermarket body part has slim chance of perfect fit witout minor modifications, it's par for the course. How many trunk lids have you found "flawed" in this process? Really there are going to be variables to deal with
Last edited by 2oodoor; 03-30-2017 at 02:48 PM.
Richard and I went out to this guys place 2 weekends ago. Richard wanted to try it out on my car and we did test fit them. I did mine back in 2007 and I almost forgot that I had done some fiberglass work on my trunk lid because I missdrilled the holes. Some of the wings did not fit right on my trunk. We tested all 5 of them on my car. At this point Im also going to be looking for a trunk replacement since we don't really have a perfect trunk to fit. I know you guys have been waiting for a long time. Trust me I have seen them in person. They look really good in person. The person doing them has too many things on his hands. Half his land was underwater and had a huge mudhole from the recent storms. Now that the rain has stopped I offered Richard and I to go out and help the guy out. We are going to test different ways to mount the wing to the trunk since they are very light. Finished product will come out shortly.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I'll be waiting patiently for more updates.
'88 LX-i Coupe --- LS/Vtec
'08 Accord EX-L 6-6 --- Daily Duty
Ok I am sorry for the misfortunes of dude man, we all have shit since shit happens, it happens to some more than others apparently. Sometimes thats carma biting you in the ass.
Ok thats done, irrelevent to the fact that automotive fasteners are such a fucking mystery. Every bit of 5 hrs, even divided in segments is plenty of time to reverse engineer a fucking product you're allegedly famiar with fabricating.... which in itself is fucking ignorant. Kind of like building a custome transmission for a car then on the last step figuring out how to adapt the bell housing to fit the application. Should have been the core of the project to design fitament and attatchment wtf. Ok thats done
If the fucking thing is so light then mounting hardware should be simple, but you all are telling me the damn thing doesn't even fit correctly yes?
I don't think any of you hAndling this piece have a clue what you Re doing in regards to body work.
Even high end body kits come with intent you mount the shit with 3m graded for automotive body construction, even some advise using rtv silicone or auto panel mastic on the ends. Not a one of them come with screws other than for attaching to inner wheel wells and out of site areas.
Look, I apologize for the public rant here but just read through the thread , that whats not been edited, and feel the direction it goes and note the dates carefully.
I already told you the GB OP, Here or on FB that I would be glad to assist with ideas on mounting, so that said, if there is a nice complete piece ready
all valid key points.Ok that's done, irrelevant to the fact that automotive fasteners are such a fucking mystery. Every bit of 5 hrs, even divided in segments is plenty of time to reverse engineer a fucking product you're allegedly familiar with fabricating.... which in itself is fucking ignorant. Should have been the core of the project to design fitment and attachment
If the fucking thing is so light then mounting hardware should be simple, but you all are telling me the damn thing doesn't even fit correctly yes?
I don't think any of you handling this piece have a clue what you Re doing in regards to body work.
Even high end body kits come with intent you mount the shit with 3m graded for automotive body construction, even some advise using rtv silicone or auto panel mastic on the ends. Not a one of them come with screws other than for attaching to inner wheel wells and out of site areas.
Look, I apologize for the public rant here but just read through the thread , that whats not been edited, and feel the direction it goes and note the dates carefully.
I already told you the GB OP, Here or on FB that I would be glad to assist with ideas on mounting, so that said, if there is a nice complete piece ready
IIRC at the "beginning" of this endeavor (22nd September 2015) it was claimed that these were being made to accommodate both bolt on and adhesive mounting techniques. As per snooz's comment, from the get go the boot lid should have been completely BLOCKED and DA'd even before a dry fit of the spoiler. Then the spoiler should have been checked for straightness ( These OEM spoilers can and will bend/conform to shape) and fitment before the first layups /gel-coat was used to make the molds. Most likely why the mold had to be corrected. Sad to say but if the same steps were taken for the custom boot lid (if it ever actually got started at all) fitment would almost be guaranteed to be a nightmare. When the mold was "corrected" would have been the ideal time to address the hardware and mounting system. The answer for this was right in front of them, however the fabricator chose the "easy" route and did not incorporate a stainless steel truss bar (spine) with properly welded SS hardware ( would have been easy for people that wanted adhesive only to just cut the studs off). This would have limited the part being distorted, however with using localized heat sources (heat lamps) during the out-gassing/curing stage this will happen to an extent regardless. Being the part was not designed to mimic the OEM mounting system, a few problems will/can occur. Fractures/cracks will develop over time near/around the areas that have inserts/mounting holes due to lack of support material (epoxy and added CF layers). To sum it up, the part was only designed and only intended to be stuck on with adhesive. Otherwise the item would most likely require another redesign.
Some enthusiasts across the pond have made fiberglass replicas.....back in 2015. Even so the fiberglass one weighed around the same 3 lbs that the oem wing weighs. Could have reduced cost and turn around time for fabricating it in fiberglass ( hell even get them CF wrapped!) being this is or aesthetics.
1989 Accord Lx-i hatchback (current DD project)
1986 Olds Cutlass 442 clone (never ending project)
3Geez resident body man
Owner of Wreck-less auto body
Ok so its a bit hard to see in these photo but when zoomed in you can see what im talking about as far as a gap. You can probably stick maybe 4 playing cards under it. I know it doesn't seem like much but its not right to me or them. This Is one duck bill they all have a bit of a gap in different places for each of them the last two that were made the gap was much tighter. As far as mounting hardware he has some type of window regulator mounts that are made of rub/plastic used by bwm and work much like the dry wall anchor I posted before. The duck bill are rigid so he wanted to use some the expanded in the inside of the duck bill i would sit closer to to the deck lid. The mounts used in the 3rd photo here is what you guy would like to see and be used nut they also were part of the reason for the gap. When bolting the to the test lid they tind pull to the lid make the parts close the mounts touch before the rest of the wing causing the gap. He tired warming the duck bill up a bit see if but it wasn't enough to fully close the gaps. By using something with a big more surface space such as the new mounting hardware it should help even things out. The truck in these phot had been sand down and had a bit of body work make sure that it was flat. So I assuming the problem was in the bagging process. To me its as if some sections had a bit more pressure on them the others so as it drying/curing it's development the issue. Messy's deck lid has 2x2 FG patch where the the oem duckbill suds go because he drill the wholes wrong so his lid only made the new duckbills look worse and fit just as bad as it looked.for that reason I didn't take photos of it. We tested all of the on his and 2 fit somewhat decent and I consider just shipping them but he hadn't make wholes for mounting them. I didn't feel comfortable drill in to them as the are shallow and is very easy to poke a hole straight through the top part of the wing or damage it them. At least if he did it it's on him to remake it. Now if not having holes in the but having the mounting hardware included is ok with anyone just tell me and I'll try to get out there asap. Ive been tryin to get ahold of the guy since Friday morning for a update and so I can go back out there. He told us that had have a couple more done up by this time so I hoping that's ture.
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Also the wings weighs less the half of what the jdm or the FG that we have use for reference.
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Well good news. Messy's trunk was a part of the fitment problem. The fit meant was much better with my trunk. The two of them will get hit with clear coat then waxed and buffed and be ready for packaging. I have more pictures ill post in a bit.
Also here is the mounts he came up with. Well nuts. Here's a video of how they work. https://youtu.be/LUa169kRuz4 . These are a option because they are easily replaceable if they wear out over time and you can can install them on your own. You will have to drill the holes in both your trunk and wing you self unless requested to have them done before hand. The reason I would recommend that you do it on you own is that after test 3 lids and 5 wing on each we found the they all of them fit differently so to insure the best fit and the holes line up correctly.
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In this group of photos you can see the gap and hole bit it is on my lid. How ever when we tested this same duck bill on messy's car it fit the best. Also keep in mine its still need to have a couple of small things sanded on the bottom which will help with fitment.
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This a different duck bill the fit like shit on messy's but fit great on mine. Remember these do not have mounts in them and still need to have finishing done to get rid of small bump, pits, rough edges, and smoothen them out on the bottom for flatness. Then clear, wax buffing.
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He said he would be shooting clear on the one the was near perfect this week so I should have on to get boxes made and it will be shipped out. The catch would be then you would drill you own holes but it will have the well nuts for you to mount. If you don't want to deal with it drill your own because if you go to deep you can poke the back of the top part and put dent in it. No amount sanding will fit it either. So would still liken to send the wings out by order of payment.
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By drilling you mean the mounting points would be just a solid tab and you would have to put them into a drill press to drill them out then expoxy the rubber riv nuts in yourself?
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