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Thread: Rear main seal..how hard??

  1. #1
    LXi User
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    Question Rear main seal..how hard??

    Ok who heres changed the rear main seal (the one behind the flywheel)

    In the manual it states something about loosening something to get the seal in and out...is this so???

    it appears mine is leaking more now since the colder weather and thin oil....
    i might try stop leak stuff but doubt if it will help and i might change to a higher grade oil...

    my clutch is already getting oil soaked and shudders...
    this fricken car is pissing me off...one thing after another.

    BEn
    89 Accord 2dr Coupe..not a hatchback!...5speed..sunroof..spoiler..custom carb intake..custom exhaust..hood scoop....312000km



  2. #2
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    take car of it right away. i blew my clutch out in less then 8 months because of the rear main seal. do it now. you'll save hella money if you do it yourself. but if you have a shop do it.then you might as well throw in a perfomance clutch thats what i did. i paid 250 labor+ parts for a clutch change and while they were at it the threw on a new seal and axle seals. total 360= 150 performance clucth. well worth it.
    ACT Stage 1, Short Ram Intake & 2.25 Dynomax custom catback w/4inch carbon fiber tip. Thats it for now.

    Putting the paint back on after

    SOMEONE STOLE MY PAINT!!!!!


  3. #3
    SEi User 2old_honda's Avatar
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    I need to change mine. I also need a new clutch, and a new transmission, and while I am at it I might as well do a teg trans swap, and...

  4. #4
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    ....and i wish i had the money

    before i bought it the clutch was new! Stupid fockers didnt replace the seal when it was out ..
    so I hope that there isnt much damage to the clutch other then the disc so that i only have to replace that and the seal...
    my clutch works perfectly fine except for 1st gear chatter

    BEn
    89 Accord 2dr Coupe..not a hatchback!...5speed..sunroof..spoiler..custom carb intake..custom exhaust..hood scoop....312000km

  5. #5
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    dude im telling you dont let that fool you its only a matter of time ( a month or so) till it takes a shit. save all you cash and get your seal replaced now. it will save you form having to replace the clutch.
    ACT Stage 1, Short Ram Intake & 2.25 Dynomax custom catback w/4inch carbon fiber tip. Thats it for now.

    Putting the paint back on after

    SOMEONE STOLE MY PAINT!!!!!


  6. #6
    3Geez Veteran ACCORD EX's Avatar
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    to do it you need to drop the tranny ! and you'll find a how to on it in the how to's !

    BTW change everything the you can while the tranny is off ( clutch , pressure plate , bearing )

    MIKE
    3geez member since October 4th 2001

  7. #7
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    oh i forgot to even check the how tos....

    all i wanted to find out was if i needed to take the oil pan off to beause in the manual it says something about loosening something to allow the seal to get in and out....

    I wont have a problem with the rest of the stuff.....ive done clutches before....
    this is a major burn to me seeing its christmas....and the job i have i hate so much

    For those who have had them leaking did the oil appear to drip from the oil pan????........the flywheel isnt wet with oil until the bottom of it....and i replaced the oil pan seal last month becasue i thought it was that but i guess not.....

    Now to check the how toos.

    thanks guys...
    Ben
    89 Accord 2dr Coupe..not a hatchback!...5speed..sunroof..spoiler..custom carb intake..custom exhaust..hood scoop....312000km

  8. #8

    AZmike's Avatar
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    I did my rear main seal a few months ago. You need to remove the tranny, pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel. Getting the flywheel bolts off will be tricky without an impact wrench. Be sure you already have 17 mm 12 point socket for this.

    You can remove the seal using a screwdriver carefully working around the inside of the seal. Once you've got it loose you can dig in to the seal lip and pry it out. Be sure not to scratch the crankshaft though. You don't need to take apart the bottom of the engine at all. A seal driver tool would make the new seal installation easier, but mine is working ok and I used the blunt end of a center punch working around slowly. Be sure to pack the new seal with grease so you don't lose the spring that makes the seal work.

    It took me two weekends because I had to reseal my tranny in the week between and was working on dirt. If you can work on concrete and have a helper when moving the tranny into and out of the car you probably could finish in one weekend.

    Any other questions? It's a big job, but it's not really difficult.
    Mike

  9. #9
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    THANK YOU 89LXi4dr!!!!!!!!!


    THAT is what i wanted to here!!!!!!


    You told me what i wanted to know.....
    thanks for the info.....

    I wont have a problem with removing the tranny or anything....I was wondering about the seal itself.....
    I should be a ble to do it in a day easy .....ive done clutches before in 5/6 hours...

    I sure hope that the pressure plate/beaaring/flywheel are ok and all i will have to do is sand them a bit and replace the disc itself.

    it was supposidly new when i bought the car....well with about 50000km on it.....obvoiusly the seal wasnt replaced.,..
    well now to get the parts and start doing this next weekend or whn i got time..

    thanks for the help guys ....
    BEn
    89 Accord 2dr Coupe..not a hatchback!...5speed..sunroof..spoiler..custom carb intake..custom exhaust..hood scoop....312000km

  10. #10

    AZmike's Avatar
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    Glad to hear I could help out. That's what this board is for. Good luck.
    Mike

  11. #11
    3Geez Veteran ACCORD EX's Avatar
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    hey mike did you had to tighten the spring inside the seal or you put it on as it is ! ?

    MIKE
    3geez member since October 4th 2001

  12. #12

    AZmike's Avatar
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    I talked to a tech at the dealer about tightening the spring and he said he had never heard of doing it. I packed it with grease and istalled is as-purchased. I've had great luck for the past 1500 miles.

    Maybe the people that needed to tighten theirs had scratches on the sealing surface on the crankshaft so they needed to tighten the spring to prevent leaks.
    Mike

  13. #13
    3Geez Veteran AccordEpicenter's Avatar
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    lol at least the part is cheep, lots cheaper than a new clutch!
    429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*

  14. #14
    3Geez Veteran ACCORD EX's Avatar
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    that's really confusing ! tighten or not to tighten ! DAMN !
    i had to tighten my cam seal but didn't have to tighten the front crank seal !

    MIKE
    3geez member since October 4th 2001

  15. #15

    AZmike's Avatar
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    Originally posted by AccordEpicenter
    lol at least the part is cheep, lots cheaper than a new clutch!
    I still felt a little ripped off paying nearly $20 for a small plastic ring with a rubber lip and a spring inside of it.

    I just think of how much it would cost for me to have someone else do the work and it's a lot easier to put up with the cost of parts like that.
    Mike

  16. #16

    dj99's Avatar
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    My local dealer charged me $18 for a driveshaft seal, where www.hondaautomotiveparts.com cost about $9. Pays to plan ahead.
    Nothin' extra

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