That looks good, who makes it?... I got the B&M ones for the robust fins... I figured I need something that a stray rock couldn't deform easily.
That looks good, who makes it?... I got the B&M ones for the robust fins... I figured I need something that a stray rock couldn't deform easily.
- llia
it the new B&M and it works good to
LX-R coming soon Here's a hint. 89mm stroke/ 41.60cc head /ARP head & main stud's /SRP piston's 81.5mm 9:5:1/Crower Rod's & more to come
no brass connectors in the hardwarestores? hmm you could use copper tubing, but I'm not sure if thats the right diameter... I'm not sure on the vacuum connector being a good choice, look for fuel line connectors... usually anything for efi will work.
https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=9985
- llia
So the car will inoperable in the winter with this mod? But I guess if you took 5 min to change the hoses, you can take another 5 to undo it...
BTW, if anyone finds the right connector and such, tell us where to get it and take a few pics of the "procedure" plz
I'm not sure how bad it'd be, but I'm personally not concerned with it at all being located in Miami. As you said it doesn't take much to revert to the original position, though bleeding the system for air gets boring.
Llocating a 5/16 coolant/fuel line connector is the holdup. I will post pics once I get one.
Originally Posted by Slavic
Gates Hoses makes plastic hoses connecters in virtually every size and almost every auto part store carries them. also Murry AC parts makes copper, steal, and plastic hose connectors, and Dorman makes brass, copper and steel connectors. if you go to a parts store and they say they don't have it is because A- they are a shitty store and don't have anything anyway. or B- the people you are asking don't know what hell they're talking about. ask to see a cataloge on either Gates, Dorman, or Murry AC. every part store has a dealer cataloge for every brand they carry. i hate lazy ass stupid counter help that just. i swear part stores will hire any tom dick or Harry that know what a wrench is.
the fuel pressure mod looks interesting...... any thoughts on this?
im trying out the secondary butterfly mod now and will give you the results (obvious low end loss)
I havent forgotten my roots
Not to burst your bubble or talk trash, but Im suprised this is in the performance section.
Coolant mod: Huh? By passing your coolant lines to wherever it goes beyond the engine and the radiator is just pointless. Its not gonna do anything to your performance but its just gonna give you problems with idling and warm up, if hoses like the fast idle valves and stuff is removed. I dont see a point in that. On the other hand like Mike linked to his thread, Removing or bypassing the heater core (inside the cabin) hoses in order to reduce the weight in the cabin is acceptable and that is only if you live out in the desert or in lower lattitudes like Mike. So to be honest, dont even bother with this mod cause it aint even one.
EGR: This has been done by many, ppl have just made block off plates/solid gaskets and blocked off the port on the intake manifold side and some have just cut it off. some have thrown codes and some have not. So its better off to keep the EGR cause u need it for emissions, but if u dont live in a state of emission inspection, then just block it off. pretty simple
Fuel Pressure: Whoever wrote that thread is dumber than i thought.a fuel pressure regulator works off the vaccuum off the intake manifold. Removing the vaccuum line from the regulator simulates its operation under wide open throttle so it flows fuel at whatever maximum pressure its regulated to. So for a stock regulator it will flow 37psi at idle, which will increase ur idle and if u block off the hole in the manifold, the idle will drop, but ur fuel pressure at idle will still be at 37psi which is extreme rich. Fuel pressure regulator does not need to be adjusted constantly, it has a screw on diaphram with a lock nut and with a fuel pressure gauge, it can be precisly adjusted with no problem. I have it and lots of guys have it and its no problem at all.
To sum it all up, misinformation is what sucks about this. GUys with no aparent clue of what they are doing have more stupid followers than a geneous. So dont follow the Link's writeup. Know the mechanics behind a part and what they do and do accordingly. damns
Do what now? lolTo sum it all up, misinformation is what sucks about this. GUys with no aparent clue of what they are doing have more stupid followers than a geneous. So dont follow the Link's writeup. Know the mechanics behind a part and what they do and do accordingly. damn
on my t&t street i usualy run 75mph from point a to b
with both "mods" i seem to run 1 or 2 mph slower... but seems more revy
always take into consideration, speed costs money! free mods arewned:
Last edited by hondamanlxi; 08-05-2004 at 09:04 AM.
I havent forgotten my roots
hey what about that flapper valve removal. so we use all 8 runners at the same time. Is that logical? I want to try it out lol.
just undo the vacuum line on the right side of the intake manifold. Its hooked to the ONLY diaphram connected to the intake mani on that side! It seems to rev alittle better but nothing exiciting!
the direct port into the flapper plate is badass! im definately into that!
I havent forgotten my roots
My link was also to bypassing the manifold heater for the carb, but you're right about the idle and warm up problems... but once it's running it gets enough heat transfering from the head to help the fuel atomize.
As for EFI it realy doesn't need the fuel atomization as much since the injectors squirt into the head so fuel flow thru the manifold isn't a problem... keeping it cool by removing the heater is only part of it, you also need to block heat from the head... so you should think about getting the heat spacer from a B16 or having one custom made for the A20.
Again if you mess with the coolant the cold idle/warm up will be affected, it's up to you if you want to live with that, I have little problem where I live.
- llia
mantis88ls did that on his teg (d16a1) and in the mornings its acted like a carb w/no choke. In other words, you have to assist the idle for 20-30sec or so, no more retarded problems tho! My accords eacv is acting dumb so im on to this right now until i replace it
I havent forgotten my roots
Just a quick update. I did the bypass using a hose connector/bracket from my parts car (Why didn't I think of that before). No pics, sorry. I'll take some at a latter time. I noticed a pin hole hose leak so I decided to do it at the same time cause bleeding the air out of the system is boring.
It took me well over 20 minutes for the fan to come on and I had to have the engine revved at higher RPMs to achieve that. It just wouldn't move from slightly above 1/3 until I started keeping it at higher RPMs.
That doesn't have anything to do with the bypass. I'm just mentioning it. The system is just really clean. When I flushed it after using that radiator treatment that you leave in the cooling system to circulate for a day it was totally clean right from the start.
Since I've already blocked the fast idle valve a few weeks ago, which required me to loosen the idle screw a few turns to get the idle high enough to get engine running and caused a drop in RPM's below normal for the duration of the warm up period and later on drilled 2 holes in the block (1/4" diameter) which solved the idle drop I now only had to lower the idle a little (it's now almost at the tightest setting) and I have a car the revs up to 1500 RPMs for a couple of seconds and than settles at 800 RPMs (until it starts being rough and dropping whenever anything that draws power turns on which is another issue alltogether). Sure beets having the car rev at 2200-2500 RPMs for a few minutes.
I don't notice any power increase, but I didn't expect to. I'm aware this mod can only be, say, a moderate addition to improve/complement a CAI.
Last edited by Slavic; 08-09-2004 at 06:13 AM.
LOL, can't say you didn't try.
- llia
i know right?LOL, can't say you didn't try.
Whatever. My reasoning is simple. Hot coolant flowing through or even just connecting to the intake manifold is going to introduce heat to the intake manifold and therefore intake air much quicker than just ambient heat radiation through air. Heat transferring to intake air = bad. Eliminating hot coolant which is introducing heat to intake air = good. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I had rough idle long before I did this. Idling problem introduced by coolant bypass, if there ever was one, and I wouldn't know since I blocked the fast idle valve weeks before I did the coolant bypass mod in order to lower it from 2200-2500 RPMs, was fixed, rather easily might I add, and to my overwhelming joy since I was extremely dissatisfied with my car idling at 2200-2500 RPMs for five minutes FOR NOTHING.
I don't see how warmup is an issue. It didn't take any longer for it to warm up to the best of my recollection. I suppose one could use some water wetter or even better motormax if transferring heat more evenly and quickly during warmup is a concern. If it was a carb and I didn't live in Miami I suppose warm up would be a concern, but as it is it is not a concern at all.
im not talking trash to you man so dont take it personally. If you are concerned with your intake manifold heating up, then you will have to realize that its not because of the Coolant going thru it, To be honest, your coolant does not go THRU your intake manifold at all. The only places it goes to are the IAVC in the front and the Fast idle valve in the back of the manifold.
My car takes about 3 minutes to warm up and it fast idles at a respectable 1500rpm just like it should. Never has it been adjusted, cause it should not be unless its bad. Also, If you know anything about how an engine performs, you would have known that its because of the backflow of the combusted gas from the cylinders into the intake manifold. Its called Backflow in technical sense. And to be honest, your intake manifold is the hottest at idle than when ur doing 90 mph. Its because the backflow is less at higher engine speed due to lower initial vaccuum.
So thats why Alcohol injection and Intercoolers are used to cool the air temperature and not the manifold itself. Again, im not trying to prove your methods or wrong and whatnot, but im just stating the point of why things happen in an engine.
I'm still suggesting that along with a insulated cold air intake pipe, fully wraped from Throttle body to filter, even under the rubber pipe conectors with heat wrap DEI HEAT WRAP, you should also add in a insulating gasket. HONDATA INSULATING GASKET
Reversion
Last edited by A20A1; 08-09-2004 at 06:37 PM.
- llia
smufguy, I'm not getting offended at all. It's just that in that passage I quoted you basically stated your opinion it being that the mod is pointless, won't help performance and will give me problems with nothing to back up your claims, so I said whatever and explained my reasoning.
I know very little about IC engines. Your input is welcome. I'll try to make sense of your explanations.
As far as the mod, as I said, I had a pin hole leak and was going to have to change a hose and bleed the system anyway. I had rough idle to begin with and have partially blocked the fast idle valve because both I had worked at 2200-2500 RPMs (suppose both were defective) and I decided to fix that by partially blocking them instead of buying one that has a lower idle speed. It made sense to me to do the mod and wasn't too time consuming so I did it.
bump
- llia
ok so how do u do that with the b20a with a b16a manifold on it
rhd restoration 2nd gen prelude
has anyone got any updates on this yet? especially since the weather is so hot. I'm working on a design for a forced air oil cooler,but I don't want to put it at the front of the engine due to the fire risk from a collision. even a minor one. a far as making the fan functional and still being able to control it on demand,you simply use a bosch relay in parallel with the temp sensor. when the relay is turned on the car thinks the sensor is asking for cooling. you just put a switch inside and when you turn that switch on,the fan will run,turn it off it operates stock. i've had that setup for years. summit carries a digital fan control that is inside of a gauge it reads the actual coolant temp and you set it to trigger a relay output at the temp you want. a good place to put the sensor is on the thermostat housing,there is a round blank area on the housing where the coolant flows,just drill and tap this for the sensor.
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