MODIFICATION , ENGINE COOLING PART 1 ( Intake Coolant Bypass )

[carotman]

Hmmm since I'm not sure if we could incorporate a stock oil cooler from another Honda into the A20A. The B20A has an oil cooler from the factory.

[lostforawhile]

I was going to use a cooler from an aircraft,I have a shroud that fits over it that connects to a duct,you can mount a blower fan from a small car like a geo and use it to force air down the duct to the cooler, best place to mount it is in the middle of the firewall near the bottom. blow the air down. this is safest from a crash point of view. also the cooler hoses are shorter for less pressure drop.

[lostforawhile]

here's the actual cooler itself, this is an aircraft cooler,fits nicely where the battery would go, it's fed air from a bosch squirrel cage blower under the bumper corner, I haven't had the money to get the oil thermostat yet,thats why the two lines aren't finished

the lines on the back of the block,and the oil filter adaptor

remote oil filter mount


power steering cooler, this was I believe a ford engine oil cooler

[Civic Accord Honda]

holy hell look at all dem lines n hoses

[b20a86lude]

wow can i see more piks of the cooler from the air craft wat kind of plane is it from

[lostforawhile]

wow can i see more piks of the cooler from the air craft wat kind of plane is it from

I'll go out in a little while and take some more pictures

[lostforawhile]

All right some more, put the radiator hose bracket on and took off the bumper for these pictures.
This is the blower under the bumper corner, it's a bosch unit I got off of ebay, it pulls air in from under the bumper, and the scoop inlet on the blower has a screen in it to prevent debris from being sucked up. there is also a filter in one of those pieces that fit under the bottom of the bumper.


the upper hose that runs up into the engine compartment

The cooler is a Kintex, The only reason I was able to get this one, was it had some bent fins, which made is unsuitable for aircraft use. It sat on a shelf collecting dust for years. These run about 800 bucks new. You might be able to find a used one if you look long enough, or if you live near an aircraft graveyard. Even used though they are expensive, they can be sent off and refurbished.



the radiator hose bracket, I machined that piece from a piece of scrap aluminum, it splits into two halves.
the plenums are unique to aircraft from maule, but there are others out there that will probably work, or you can make your own out of sheet metal

[scars_of_carma]

All right some more, put the radiator hose bracket on and took off the bumper for these pictures.

This is the blower under the bumper corner, it's a bosch unit I got off of ebay, it pulls air in from under the bumper, and the scoop inlet on the blower has a screen in it to prevent debris from being sucked up. there is also a filter in one of those pieces that fit under the bottom of the bumper.

The cooler is a Kintex, The only reason I was able to get this one, was it had some bent fins, which made is unsuitable for aircraft use. It sat on a shelf collecting dust for years. These run about 800 bucks new. You might be able to find a used one if you look long enough, or if you live near an aircraft graveyard. Even used though they are expensive, they can be sent off and refurbished.


I machined the radiator hose bracket from a piece of scrap aluminum, it splits into two halves. The plenums are unique to aircraft from maule, but there are others out there that will probably work, or you can make your own out of sheet metal.

Nice fab work! You should ask me about my website if you're interested in selling any of your designs.

[lostforawhile]

water neck ready to go back in. I had to move the temp sensor to the housing. the top outlet is for the heater to the oil separator system. the temp sensor goes just above the bypass outlet on the side. made a bung out of aluminum and it's tigged on, then tapped at 1/8 bspt

[Dr_Snooz]

Lost, I love that matte black paint. Very nice.

This is my cooling system mod:



I run it as zero pressure by cutting the spring assembly off the rad cap:



The zero pressure should make the hoses last a lot longer. It's a propylene glycol base, so disposal is potentially much easier. It's also a "lifetime" fill, so I don't have to replace it every two years.

It's working fine. I can't really tell any difference between this and the old coolant, which is good. The heater never seems to get hot thought. I just start sweating after awhile running it.

[ecogabriel]

water neck ready to go back in. I had to move the temp sensor to the housing. the top outlet is for the heater to the oil separator system. the temp sensor goes just above the bypass outlet on the side. made a bung out of aluminum and it's tigged on, then tapped at 1/8 bspt

I like the black matte color and the allen bolts too (Are the bolts aircraft ones or just regular bolts?

I will install a transmission oil cooler, sourced from a Ford Explorer. It is thin enough to fit between the A/C condenser and the bumper, and it should be enough for this transmission.
The plan is to install a temp gauge first to see what the temps without the additional cooler are, and then compare between plumbing the cooler AFTER the radiator cooler, and install it BEFORE the rad. cooler to see which alternative is more effective in reducing transmission temps.

[lostforawhile]

Lost, I love that matte black paint. Very nice.

This is my cooling system mod:



I run it as zero pressure by cutting the spring assembly off the rad cap:



The zero pressure should make the hoses last a lot longer. It's a propylene glycol base, so disposal is potentially much easier. It's also a "lifetime" fill, so I don't have to replace it every two years.

It's working fine. I can't really tell any difference between this and the old coolant, which is good. The heater never seems to get hot thought. I just start sweating after awhile running it.

snooze you don't want to do that,it's important to have pressure in the system, the pressure is what increases the boiling point of your coolant, running it without that spring is like running it with the cap off. It doesn't matter what coolant, you still need pressure to make it function correctly. I believe every PSI increase over atmospheric pressure is roughly good for ten degrees in increased boiling point.

[ecogabriel]

snooze you don't want to do that,it's important to have pressure in the system, the pressure is what increases the boiling point of your coolant, running it without that spring is like running it with the cap off. It doesn't matter what coolant, you still need pressure to make it function correctly. I believe every PSI increase over atmospheric pressure is roughly good for ten degrees in increased boiling point.

You are right; the higher the pressure the higher the boiling point. Would it be possible that this coolant has a far higher boiling point than the regular mixture of coolant/water? Anyway, I do not know if the higher boiling point they report in the jars is at atmospheric pressure or in a pressurized system

[Dr_Snooz]

Would it be possible that this coolant has a far higher boiling point than the regular mixture of coolant/water?

Bulls-eye. Somewhere around 350 degrees. You'll have a lot of other broken things to worry about before this coolant boils.

[lostforawhile]

Bulls-eye. Somewhere around 350 degrees. You'll have a lot of other broken things to worry about before this coolant boils.

It's still best to run it pressurized, the other problem with an unpressurized system is you can end up with hot spots and cavitation running non pressurized. The pressured system insures a consistent pressure across the entire system vs just pressure from the water pump operating. I know a lot of people with hot rods who run into this problem on older non pressurized systems, one of the reasons for the pressurized system was to force air out of the system, this doesn't work nearly as well with a non pressurized system.

[Dr_Snooz]

Most of those problems come from the fact that you're still using water to cool the engine. It's hard to cool an engine when operating temperature is also the boiling point of the coolant. If you add any kind of load, then temps rise well beyond boiling point. The pressure in ordinary systems is meant to raise the boiling point of the water. Cavitation hasn't been reported as a problem in anything I've read.

This is all speculative, of course. I've only read what's possible and don't know from experience. If I come back this summer with a cracked block, you can say you told me so.

Here are a couple sample articles if anyone is interested.

http://www.custommachiningusa.com/Evans_NPG+.html

http://will.mylanders.com/mc/notes/read.pl?file=64

[gp02a0083]

I believe every PSI increase over atmospheric pressure is roughly good for ten degrees in increased boiling point.

depends on the liquid your using, there's a big difference between water, rubbing alcohol and other liquids.

you can play around with this equation to get an idea, but this will give a ball park figure of whats going on, theres alot of other forces at work that can cause boiling point elevation

PV=nRT
p= pressure
v= volume
n= how many moles of liquid you got
R= constant
T= temp

also like snooz was thinking propylene glycol isn't a bad coolant to use, heck the stock coolant is ethylene glycol, all thats diffrent is one methyl group. I've also used on occasion for lower temperatures going to -100 C iso-propyl alcohol.

[A20A1]

Damn I would use that stuff for sure.

I think it would be better with the cap left alone.

The caps primary function is to raise the boiling point, yeah we know that one... the caps secondary function is bleeding off EXCESS pressure to protect your water-pump seals, hoses, and radiator from over-pressurization... you don't have excess assuming I read the bottle correctly, it says 0-7psi. Regardless of running a pressurized system or not, the point is you may end up constantly losing fluid into the reservoir if there is no resistance from your cap... (less than 7psi of resistance). Just make sure you have fluid in the reservoir to feed back into the system, or cap off the fitting on the radiator to the reservoir to prevent any loss.