Might take some time, but i think the wind is blowing the right way these couple months. But these bushings might not float in the pacific ocean thoughOriginally posted by rdn
do you deliver to sweden?
Might take some time, but i think the wind is blowing the right way these couple months. But these bushings might not float in the pacific ocean thoughOriginally posted by rdn
do you deliver to sweden?
Look at what I ran into when working on that homo suspention...
https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23025
Cameron
There something to be learned here kids...
SEARCH is your friend.
natsugusa ya
tsuwamono domo ga
yume no ato
In recently fining myself in a similar situation, I think a portable means of pressing a bearing into the arm or knuckle (rear) is in order.
Perhaps a very small bottle jack with a 1 foot piece of bar steel welded to the bottom and a similar piece for the top. Drill holes and connect the bars with beefy 1/2 or 3/4 inch sections of threaded stock (or just long bolts).
The total contraption would only weigh 10-15 pounds and have 2 tons of force. support it on boards or bricks for the height and send that bearing right home.
No mess, no fuss. Instant bearing press.
I just use the WD-40 and the impact gun. Air tools kick ass. Or use a breaker bar to get that shit. I had to a 6' breaker bar to get the hub axle nut off, not even the impact gun could get it. I had to apply 760 lbs/tq before it became loose.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
i broke 2 breaker bars on one axle nut and ended up chiseling it off.
-Grant. I'm just a pirate chasing booty.
I find that a thick pipe works best as a breaker bar since it fits anything. I sometimes use the screwdriver through wrench method if i cant fit it though. My friend just bought me a 250lb. impact wrench and it works so well. For half the bolts on my chevelle I had to heat them with a soldering torch to get them to not snap. Just beware about using a torch and wd-40. (I just always keep the fire extinguisher close).
75 Malibu for sale, fully restored, $5,500 obo
https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=43055
Currently driving a 95 LS soon to be turbo integra.
i put a jack handle over the end of the breaker bar. my dad has a real nice 2 ton jack with a handle about 4 feet long and it's very thick tubing and it usually breaks anything loose, even breaker bars.
-Grant. I'm just a pirate chasing booty.
Searching for damper fork removal brought me here.
This is insane. The "How To" on struts, and all the manuals say that the damper fork should just slip off the bottom of the strut. But I don't have enough clearance between the damper fork and the axle; I can't get the axle down low enough to get the fork off the bottom of the strut.
Any advice? Do you just have to pry everything WAY down? Am I gonna break something by doing that?
Perfection is simply a matter of replacing parts.
I found it's usually like that on most of the Honda's. So I step on the hub/disk to push the whole thing down which gives me enough clearance to pop the fork off the strut. Good luck!
www.b20accord.com
for a 1988 Honda Accord Hatchback do you have 1)damper fork bushing 2)bolt 3)nut
If so how much???
Eric Guille
Cell phone 202.593.1477
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