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Thread: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

  1. #226

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Look on mcmaster-carr, just search the viton section



  2. #227


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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Quote Originally Posted by conozo View Post
    The SK116 replaces part 16741-PG7-005 which is what i already have.
    Better worded response from me...

    Sorry wasnt trying to be a jerk. I bought a few of these over the years I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. there 1.99 at Summit racing.

    I am perplexed yours isnt the standard "Honda" size.I just assumed all the fuel rails and regulators are the same.
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  3. #228

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    No worries oldblue. It is an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator but i thought it looked exactly the same. It did not come with its own o-ring.

    Converting from my measurements to inches. It seems to be a
    OD: 9/16
    ID: 3/8
    Thickness: 1/16 or 5/64 or 3/32 at the largest. Not sure what the thickness should be.

    May have found one here at O'reilly - Part 110 NAT
    https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...nat0/110?pos=0
    National Nitrile Rubber (NBR) O-Ring - 110 Thickness is 3/32

    I forgot to give an update on the starting issue from last month here in this thread. I ended up figuring out that it was the igniter that did not like the cold below 32 degrees. One week the temperature dropped below 20 degrees so every start involved heating the distributor, then i started only heating the igniter and it worked. I started carrying around a butane lighter to hold on the igniter for 20 seconds or so and it would start everytime after that. Eventually the new igniter that i ordered and was lost in the mail arrived, i swapped it out and haven't had an issue since. The old igniter was only about a 1 year and was an ebay item.
    Last edited by conozo; 01-25-2023 at 11:50 AM.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  4. #229

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Rethinking my suspension. Maybe im getting old, maybe the roads are extra bad this time of year, maybe the suspension is actually worn out but either way i want to do something about it. I have H&R springs that have 10years 100k miles on them, KYB struts in the rear, Tokico blues in the front. I feel my suspension travel is hardly anything at all. Any bump sounds like the car is falling apart, partially because it is but it also skips, bump steers, and hops over bumps. The rear end sags and the toe is still messed up and i wonder if returning to stock height would address the rear toe, bump steer, increased suspension travel, improve ride quality, and reduced noise over bumps.

    On my 2000 Insight the rear suspension was real weak and crappy, hitting the bump stops all the time. I put slightly stiffer springs in there which helped a little but then added a custom spacer increasing the ride height by only 1/2 inch and it was a huge difference, basically never slammed into the bump stops after the spacer. Wondering if normal springs would do the same for the ride in this car, its been so long since the car was stock i don't remember how it was.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  5. #230

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Im assuming your springs are very, very stiff. Part of the reason I went with civic/crx skunk2 front springs and cut the rears. For some reason you can't get lowering springs that arent twice as stiff as stock on any car unless you get coilovers and play with different universal springs. I wouldn't suggest cutting the rear springs like I did because they dont sit in the perch as well, but the stock rate is pretty good, bottomed out crx springs almost made my wife piss herself, but she actually commented that the cut stock ones feel really good lol.

    I can go find the numbers for my spring rates if you want a good starting point. If you want to keep it low just get the YSRs or ksports, its probably cost about as much to gather all the parts for my setup than it would be to just get coilovers.

  6. #231

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Finally popped off the 5th gear cover. Been driving without 5th and an intermittent 1st for about 1.5 years and 15,000 miles. This week 1st was getting pretty bad.

    Found the shaft nut completely loose which could have caused the shaft to move side to side. Tightened it back up and put it all back together. Didn't go for a test drive tonight so we will see tomorrow. Cant believe it worked so well. 5th gear isn't completely destroyed but it was missing 1/3 of a tooth.

    https://youtube.com/shorts/AV2rzbl2AZU?feature=share









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  7. #232

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures





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  8. #233


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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    You got enough oil in there?

    Some of those gears look like they have rust pits and rusting between the teeth?
    1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
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  9. #234

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    It does look like rust in the pictures. I check the fluid often and it was never low when i checked. Maybe its because I drove it 15,000 miles without ever using 5th gear.

    After driving today 1st gear is solid. Never popped out or had the shifter move when starting out in gear. 5th gear still has a lot of whine and I'm not too keen on driving it with a partially missing tooth. So here is how I think all this happened. When i refreshed my engine a while ago, i did so leaving it in the engine bay, i did not touch or remove the transmission. On my first day of driving after the rebuild I was starting out at a light in 1st gear and the car made this huge bang and it literally felt like the engine dropped out of the car and I drove over it. But it was the clutch cable that was bound and released during acceleration, so i basically was dropping the clutch and that loosened the countershaft nut. The indent in the nut was sheered off. Now with the countershaft sliding all over the place, 1st gear shifts were odd, never consistent. Also when using 5th, the countershaft 5th gear would move side to side and would make contact with the 5th gear shift fork, pushing it out of gear if i gave it enough gas. You can see the edge of the teeth on that gear are rounded and also this is where the broken tooth is from. Hitting the 5th gear shift fork and pushing it into neutral position toward reverse position! Luckily i don't think it could have pushed it that far because you can see the nut was hitting the tin cover.

    I ordered new nuts and a new 5th gear set. I'll do a couple fluid changes to hopefully get that gear piece out and I'll drill the 5th gear oil passage larger.
    Last edited by conozo; 03-16-2023 at 07:32 PM.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  10. #235


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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Quote Originally Posted by conozo View Post
    It does look like rust in the pictures. I check the fluid often and it was never low when i checked. Maybe its because I drove it 15,000 miles without ever using 5th gear.

    After driving today 1st gear is solid. Never popped out or had the shifter move when starting out in gear. 5th gear still has a lot of whine and I'm not too keen on driving it with a partially missing tooth. So here is how I think all this happened. When i refreshed my engine a while ago, i did so leaving it in the engine bay, i did not touch or remove the transmission. On my first day of driving after the rebuild I was starting out at a light in 1st gear and the car made this huge bang and it literally felt like the engine dropped out of the car and I drove over it. But it was the clutch cable that was bound and released during acceleration, so i basically was dropping the clutch and that loosened the countershaft nut. The indent in the nut was sheered off. Now with the countershaft sliding all over the place, 1st gear shifts were odd, never consistent. Also when using 5th, the countershaft 5th gear would move side to side and would make contact with the 5th gear shift fork, pushing it out of gear if i gave it enough gas. You can see the edge of the teeth on that gear are rounded and also this is where the broken tooth is from. Hitting the 5th gear shift fork and pushing it into neutral position toward reverse position! Luckily i don't think it could have pushed it that far because you can see the nut was hitting the tin cover.

    I ordered new nuts and a new 5th gear set. I'll do a couple fluid changes to hopefully get that gear piece out and I'll drill the 5th gear oil passage larger.
    Thats good you got a new 5th gear set.

    I just look at those pictures and to me thats gears that arent getting any oil for some reason. I look at alot of gear boxes at work.

    I thought about your suspension deal. I didnt see all new stock struts for sale so maybe you could buy new springs just at a reduced spring rate. The front stock struts I used the low speed valving always sucked anyway. First set was Honda the second was Gabriel and I think there was a third set were Sears/Monroes.

    EDIT: I did see some new ones on Rockauto!
    1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
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  11. #236

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    False alarm on the 5th gear. I ordered one from the Aneheim Gear website but they refunded my order since they don't have them. The year long quest continues.

    Does oil get pumped out of the middle of the mainshaft. I see at the end on the tin cover what looks like a tube to redirect fluid to above the gear so oil is shot down on the top of the gear. Also wonder if the countershaft also pumps fluid out, since the nut was loose and touching the tin cover it possibly was blocking the oil from entering the 5th gear part of the transmission.

    OldBlue, what do you mean new springs at a reduced spring rate? Softer springs? I will say that i am pretty sure my struts are ok because they feel pretty firm and seem to rebound fine. It just feels like there is only 1 inch of travel before hitting the bump stops, any significant bump on the roads is painful to go over now and driving the same bumps in other cars is like no big deal.
    The only new stock set of springs i can find is the Lesjofors and they all look to be the ones made for an Automatic with AC, whereas mine is a manual, without AC or powersteering.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  12. #237


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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    yeah I see what your saying at a lower ride height the spring rate needs to be high to keep from bottoming out. I was meaning get springs that measure the same just different spring rates. Like with my K sport I can get just about any rate for the fronts from 400-1200 lbs.

    All the rockauto struts I saw I think were KYB's. The springs are just the stock replacement ones, Moog.
    1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
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  13. #238

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    I'm same/running lower than stock spring rates with at least a 2" drop and have no issues with travel or bottoming out. We have very forgiving suspension geometry. Buy some good bump stops though, you should at least hit the stops before you actually bottom out on the chassis, but start with them at full length and give the car a shakedown then adjust as necessary if you actually want to dial them in

  14. #239

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Worked on the car today. Put some stock springs (Husky brand) on the rear with the KYB GR-2 Excel struts. Also replaced the right rear caliper because the parking brake would not release. Something was bound up internally. Also put new pads in the rear because that side got a little scortched from driving around on a stuck parking brake before I realized what was going on.

    Whent to replace the front springs and when i was compressing the spring to take it off, my Tokio Blues that I was going to reuse let out all the gas before my eyes. So I have some front KYB GR-2 Excels on order now.

    This was mentioned before but no more than two years ago i replaced all the rubber on my suspension with new stuff, mostly Moog and its all cracked and sagging now. Total junk. Every ball joint while still good has cracking boots. These aftermarket ball joints seem to be ok, other than the rubber. I wonder if there is a silicone aftermarket boot replacement for all these ball joints and for the bushings I guess I'll just have to go poly.

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  15. #240

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Pretty sure you can buy silicone boots in assorted sizes. I'll probably go the same route once I see boots cracking. Already accidentally split an outer tie rod boot, but I'm just going to keep an eye on it.

  16. #241

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Wow, what a difference. Stock springs and KYB GR2 struts all around. The car does sit a lot higher but it is a way better ride. Honestly i think handles better than before. It is not a wallowing ride, its still sporty.

    Replaced the solid copper oil guage line with a braided stainless steel one and its quiet now, replaced the rear right caliper because the parking brake was stuck and also the rear pads. Thermostat was stuck open, replaced that. The car is so much better in so many ways. Much quieter inside from the quiet oil guage and the smoother suspension. When braking i get way less shimmy. The suspension is great, no bump steer, tracking issues, no hopping or skipping over the road, less torque steer, the bumpers line up with other cars better, and my seat wont wear out as fast. I even still need an alignment.

    Next on the to do list is some rust repair in the inner rear wheel wells. I have the rear seat out and will be grinding away to see how much is left and what i need to repair.

    This is the first time in a long time the car got better, usually i just take off the broken part and do without it.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  17. #242

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Interesting, because I complained about bump steer a long time ago, and with my current setup it's just as bad. Maybe it's actually jacking forces and I'm feeling it because of my lack of power steering. My kybs feel pretty stiff over bumps too, were your tokicos like that when it was lowered?

  18. #243

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    The KYBs do feel relatively stiff, stiffer than i would expect stock suspension to be. But in my experience, I use KYBs for every car i have owned and they always feel slightly stiffer than stock which is what i do prefer.

    The Tokicos were definitely more stiff than the KYBs. For example, if you pushed down quickly on a corner of a car to do the "shock bounce test", I couldn't get it to move. Now when i push down i can get the car to at least move with force a 1/2 inch or so.

    Also forgot to mention that now the CV shaft and tie rods are straight.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  19. #244


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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Quote Originally Posted by conozo View Post
    The KYBs do feel relatively stiff, stiffer than i would expect stock suspension to be. But in my experience, I use KYBs for every car i have owned and they always feel slightly stiffer than stock which is what i do prefer.

    The Tokicos were definitely more stiff than the KYBs. For example, if you pushed down quickly on a corner of a car to do the "shock bounce test", I couldn't get it to move. Now when i push down i can get the car to at least move with force a 1/2 inch or so.

    Also forgot to mention that now the CV shaft and tie rods are straight.
    Man sounds like you have a great set up now. Glad it worked out.

    All that other stuff,bump steer,bottoming out is from lowering a car. (edited)
    1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
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  20. #245

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Spending a lot of time lately making the car nicer.

    -Just last night i believe i fixed my cooling issue. Cooling fans would blow the fuse then wouldn't come on, i had a failsafe thermostat in so then the car wouldn't ever heat up. I honestly think my cooling fan fuse was blown all winter but it was cold so i never noticed until it started to warm up for winter. I initially though it was the condenser fan that was bad, when i unplugged it, it wouldn't blow the fuse but then after a week or the temp gauge got a little high sitting in traffic then that tripped the failsafe thermostat again. Last night I replaced the thermostat with a regular one and while i was bleeding the system waiting for the fan to kick on i saw sparks shoot out by the fan, i found that the main fans wire has rubbed against the front engine mount down to the wire. So I repaired the wire, zip tied it out of the way, regular thermostat, and i think im good to go now.

    -I found a brand new 5th gear set online the other week so i ordered it expecting it to be wrong but it was legit. Installed it and now i have 5th gear again.

    -Added some additional weather stripping on the passenger side door to fix wind noise. It was sounding like the window was open all the time.

    -Also put in the center console and other dash parts back in that have been off for a long time, got the useless cupholders in now and mounted my oil gauge where the radio goes and replaced the noisy solid copper line with a braided line that got rid of all the noise.

    -The car is so much quieter to drive, now that i have 5th gear, no wind noise, no oil gauge vibrating, better suspension. I've been doing all of this partially because its needed but i will also be taking a 2300 mile trip very soon. Wish me luck.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  21. #246

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Just completed the 2nd longest road trip the car has ever done. Went to Florida from Indiana for vacation and drove the Honda, 2000 miles round trip. We had to drive two cars this year due to taking an extra person. All the prep work I did before the vacation paid off especially the suspension, 5th gear, and making the car quieter.

    Only had one issue on the way back, after driving for a couple hours the car just died so I coasted to the side of the road while trying to start the car in neutral. It would crank but not start. I initially thought it was a loose ground under the dash and i actually did find a loose ground and tightened it but it didn't fix it so then i checked the main relay and it was completely full of water. So on the way down we drove through some of heaviest rains i have been in, in a long time and for like 2 hours straight. I couldn't go faster than 40 mph mostly because the car didn't have enough power to plow through that much water. It was crazy, everybody else had their flashers on and was parked on the side of the road but we just kept going. I have a few rust holes and a ton of water got in everywhere. The back seats and carpet were all soaking wet. So water came in through the firewall and ran down the wiring into the main relay filling it up completely. Dont know how it worked at all, especially since it worked like this all week on vacation and for the first few hours on the way back. I tried to dry it out but it was also so corroded and super hot when i plugged it in. I found one of the relays in there, I think the ignition one wouldn't swich on, it would make this clicking sound, so i jammed a piece of paper in the relay switch so that it was always on. It worked for the rest of the trip, we just unplugged it whenever we stopped so the battery wouldn't die.

    Other than that adventure the car did great. It was suprisingly more comfortable than our Honda Odyssey, my butt wasnt as sore. The car had never been south of just below the Ohio bottom border. Last time I was in that area, it had the stock carb and was automatic and it really struggled going up some of the hills but this time with the FI and 5 speed, it was no trouble, even accelerating up the hills at times. I was a great trip. I'll post some pics soon.

    Before the next trip i will fix the rust and get cruise control.
    Last edited by conozo; 05-28-2023 at 04:35 AM.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  22. #247

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    You guys will be the first to learn of this mod I have not seen and told its not possible by many. Its so simple.

    1990-1997 Rear lower adjustable control arms by Megan fit perfectly without modification and give you plenty of adjustment for toe in the rear. I needed more than the stock eccentric bolt could offer and in my research they checked out, i was unsure if the adjustment i needed would be pushing them to the limit of the adjuster threads but its not even close. Finally my rear wheels are straight, been trying to figure out what to do with this problem for years.

    The kit i ordered from www.meganracing.com was.
    Rear Toe Control Arms for Honda Accord 90-97 - MRS-HA-0170
    SKU: MRS-HA-0170
    $122 including tax and shipping
    They were on back order, i had to wait 1.5 months but they now have them in stock again.





    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  23. #248

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Doing the lords work. Ordered. My rear toe is also slightly out and the eccentrics are just annoying.

  24. #249

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    I didn't replace the eccentric bolts with regular bolts yet. I will eventually. Without looking I would assume it could use the same bolt as the bolt for the inner connection on the longer control arm.

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  25. #250

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Not sure if it can be deleted. I think the hole in the subframe is enlarged to allow the bolt to rotate because the eccentric is just a lobe on the head, the rest of the bolt is standard. You'd need to weld a washer on or have one that fits really well into the guide slot.
    I wouldn't be too worried about it, they aren't likely to move.

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