Ok fine, I got the master cylinder replaced and now when I drive I have to use (to quote what someone once here said) "ass muscle" to stop! It was a shock at first and I nearly had to use both feet but it wasn't nearly as scary to me as having my foot go to the floor trying to stop. Anyway the mechanic said the booster diaphram is weak and needs replacing. He said it would run me another $250 or so. Can I get this done cheaper????
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
-Aella
Ouch....um...I dont know, sorry, I had my brakes serviced a while ago, cost me about 300.
Good bye to the 1989 DX Type R. Hello 2001 LX.
DX:
"Four wheels, four doors, and no frills."
If its the booster give me a few days, i'll ripped it off my car and give it to you at no charge. Just shipping.Originally posted by Maydnaella
Ok fine, I got the master cylinder replaced and now when I drive I have to use (to quote what someone once here said) "ass muscle" to stop! It was a shock at first and I nearly had to use both feet but it wasn't nearly as scary to me as having my foot go to the floor trying to stop. Anyway the mechanic said the booster diaphram is weak and needs replacing. He said it would run me another $250 or so. Can I get this done cheaper????I won't need it anymore
yep you can get it cheaper... you can get it basically for free from oldschool and then have one of your guy friends or someone or even maybe you install it....
oh wow, thanks guys!! I love you!!! I would REALLY appreciate that! I'll bake you some cookies in return Juan. hehe
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
-Aella
Is this mechanic trustworthy? Or someone you've at least been to before? Because you may want to check and at least make sure the vacuum hose is still connected. It's the large hose that runs from the intake maniold to the brake booster (which is right behind and to the right of the master cylinder -- looks like a big round metal pot attached to the firewall). There's alot of dishonest mechanics out there that will just disconnect a hose or something like that, then get you to come in for a large repair and just change something small, like a hose, and charge you $250.Wouldn't be a bad idea just to check it out before getting it replaced
-Jared
Black '89 Accord LX-i sedan - 436,600 miles and still going strong!
Black/Red '04 Honda CBR 600 F4i -256,100 miles and also counting quick
Hard pedal? Did you check to see if the vacuum line is connected right? Also check to make sure there is a check vavle in there.. If This is not hooked up right, this would cause the problem of a tough pedal... If everything seems to look intact, then the brake booster is out...
you should check to make sure your brakes are proberly bled. do it yourself or have someone you know bleed your brakes. if your booster is going out it will feel like you have manual brakes. next time you are using your "ass muscle", start pumping your brake as if you had lock up your tires.
if you dont know how to bleed your here is how.
PREESURE BLEEDING
--this requires two people. have someone inside the car and outside car. the job of the person inside the is to pump the brake. the job of the person outside the car is to open and close the the bleeder screw. the person inside the car will pump the brakes untill the pedel becomes hard. once the pedel is hard contiue to push on the pedel; now the person outside the car will open the bleeder screw and brake fluid become to come out. BEFORE the brake pedel stop or hits the floor, CLOSE the bleeder screw on the brake caliper. repeat if need. it is important that bleeder screw is closed before the brake pedel stop, this is what forces the air out. because you are pushing on the brake pedel, this will cause extra line pressure. when you open the bleeder screw, this will allow the extra line pressure to escape threw the bleeder screw. that will force the air out.
extra tools you may need: LINE WRENCH or a FLAIR NUT WRENCH they are the samething try a 8mm or a 10mm
GRAVITY BLEEDING
--this is a bit eazier but does not work as well and will take longer. just open the bleeder screw. since the bleeder screw is lower then the brake fluid reservoir the fluid will just leak out.
extra tools you may need: LINE WRENCH or a FLAIR NUT WRENCH they are the samething try a 8mm or a 10mm
DO NOT FOR GET THE BRAKE FLUID.
--dot 3 brake fluid is what came OE, but check your brake fluid reservoir cap to be safe.
I’ll kill you with experience
what a ripoff you can grab one form the junkyard for way less and have a friend install it. Parts warranties are cheap and let you change it if it fails within 30 days
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
Thats true! I can't give you a warranty with mineOriginally posted by POS carb
what a ripoff you can grab one form the junkyard for way less and have a friend install it. Parts warranties are cheap and let you change it if it fails within 30 days
oh man, ok...maybe someone from soCal can come check it out for me?
Or for that matter where is a junkyard around OC? I'll try looking for those valves and see if things look ok but I've never really seen them before sooo..I might miss something. I can't think of any mechanically inclined people around here that I know.
I think the guy bled the brakes for me though? I took it to Brad's Exxon. He looked like Rex Manning from Empire Records. :p seemed nice and helpful though?
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
-Aella
I'm sure that someone un SoCal will help you.. we have some users from there... like POS Carb or maybe Justin,
I guess it just depends how far you live.
brake boosters are cheap to replace.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
I'm sure Itch wouldn't mind coming out there and helping you
-Aaron-
"I play russian roulette everyday, a man's sport, with a bullet called life"
If you can make it down here, I could look at it for you... If it is a bad booster, on Sat. the junkyard is going to have a 1/2 off day... Me and POS CARB are going to hit the yard that day....
eeek..I dunno if I could drive out to SD with those brakes, :P Do you know of any junkyards around LA area? I wonder if I can look in the phonebook
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
-Aella
EXACTLY!!!Originally posted by TeKKnoTeKK
I'm sure Itch wouldn't mind coming out there and helping you
IF I ONLY HAD A RIDE!!!
Derick
Um Itch woudlnt it be easier to start with a working 3gee?
it works... people just assume that it son't because i have the rest of it torn aparts because i'm doing a lot of body and interior work to the car
Derick
I don't live in sd, I live in-between LA and SD.... almost exactly half way.. If you know where Temecula is, I live about 12 miles from there.....
If your Brakes before you got the Master Cylinder Replaced were not hard like that, then i think that you got a Shady Mechanic!
Try to get another mechanic to check it out for you!
You in OC now, watch out!! :pimp:
Pushing it to the Limits of the Red Line!
A20A4 engine, Blew the old A20A3 =)
Trying to go Turbo But no Green can only mean that right now, i can only Dream
does OC have a lot of shady mechanics or something?
i hope i can get this fixed today.
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
-Aella
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