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Thread: messed up idle

  1. #1
    SEi User Mantis88LX's Avatar
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    messed up idle

    ok my car idles good while in park but when i put it in drive or reverse with the break on it idles a little below the 1 on the tachometer, i messed with the idle screw and got it to idle good in park but in order to make it idle good in drive i have to raise the idle but then it will idle at like 2k in park.

    also isnt there some kinda sensor that can be disconnected that makes the car idle a little bit lower when the break is on? were is that located because i think if i removed that it would help the idle out.

    thanx



  2. #2

    A20A1's Avatar
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    hmm you can always hook up the vacuum idle... it only needs a manifold vacuum source to run. That way you can lower the throttle stop screw back to the lowest possible good idle and use the idle screw for the vacuum idle to raise the idle to 900-1,000 rpm. make sure the car is fully warmed up.
    - llia


  3. #3
    SEi User Mantis88LX's Avatar
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    can you explain more about how to do this?

    thanx

  4. #4

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    hmm yeah mike can you explain the hole manifold vacuum idle thing.
    Alex.

  5. #5
    SEi User Mantis88LX's Avatar
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    ok i messed with the stop screw some and now it idles good in drive but in park it idles a little above 1 on the tachometer, is there a way to get it to be at 1 while in drive and 1 while in park????
    Last edited by Mantis88LX; 02-08-2003 at 07:04 PM.

  6. #6

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    that is why i never liked automatics.
    Alex.

  7. #7
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    thats how my car is. it idled so low that it shook in drive, so i adjusted it so it would idle good in drive, but it idles at about 2000 rpm in park, unless its cold outside, like it's been recently.
    "Turn off the television sets and eradicate the slander that says a black youth with a book is acting white." - Barack Obama

  8. #8

    A20A1's Avatar
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    It should be around 1,200 in neutral
    I usually try and keep it just above 1,000 but then in drive it drops to 900.
    - llia


  9. #9
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    the shift position switch

    controls the "idle boost soleniod "..which is in the big black box under the hood. Engine idle also adjusts for load, such as when lights and defrosters are on, also thru the vac control system. If you've pulled all of that off, you're on yer own.

    sory brudda, if u cn rd ths, u no im 44 and nvry use the gangsta shorthand :-)

  10. #10
    SEi User Mantis88LX's Avatar
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    well my idle boost diagram must have been messed up becasue even when i had the black box the car idled crappy in drive and when i put the headlights on it idled even crappyer, i got it ajusted out how i want it now.

  11. #11
    SEi User Mantis88LX's Avatar
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    Originally posted by A20A1
    It should be around 1,200 in neutral
    thats what it is at now, when it is in drive it idles close to 1 or a little below but the car doesnt idle really low anymore like it used to since i adjusted everything out

  12. #12

    A20A1's Avatar
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    http://www.geocities.com/accord89lx/keihinvacuum.html

    take a look at this link.
    I left the choke and idle diaphragm connected
    - llia


  13. #13
    LX User bradccool's Avatar
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    yea man I had this exact same problem I set my idle in park to like 1250 and when in drive with nothing on its fine..........but I have an amp and subs in the back and when the music pumps this puts load on the alternater and it Idles a lil crappy......I also need to set my AC screw on the carb it really Idles bad with the AC on

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