Amsoil oil?

[hondaisthebest]

Does somebody already tryit amsoil?
I never try synthetic what are the things do to before?
Because i am a little scare, i hear a lot of things about how synthetic can damage old engine?

[Jareds 89 LX-i]

I've never used it (though I plan to), but I've heard from quite a few peeps that Amsoil is excellent oil. I don't think you need to do anything before switching, just wait until your next oil change and use synthetic. I switched mine to synthetic for the first time @ 260k miles. I'm now @ 292k and haven't had a single problem with it, and it doesn't burn or leak any oil whatsoever. Synthetic is supposed to help clean your engine out (the deposits left by conventional oils), and I believe it does. I'm noticing in mine that after 3000 miles or so, the oil is still very clean, whereas it used to get pretty dark by oil change time. Give it a try, if you don't like it or don't think it's worth it, just switch back to conventional

[hondaisthebest]

I dont burn any oil but i have a small leak at the oil pan.
Do you thinks its can make more leaking?

ps: Between oil change i never need to put more oil.

[ACCORD EX]

sythetic oil is much better ( at least for me ) i used MOBIL now i use MOBIL 1 !
about AMS i hear it's pretty good !

MIKE

[RCracer]

AMSOIL is up there with rest of the high end synthetic oils.
I would use it (have heard really good things about it) but get my MOBIL 1 cheap of a mate.:smokin: :smokin:

[DBMaster]

I have used synthetic oil since mine was new. I am now at 195,000 with a very clean engine (top end, at least). I use whatever is on sale, but I usually stock up at Wal Mart when they put the five quart jugs of Mobil 1 on sale for $18. I only put about 10,000 mile a year on my car so I am changing the oil about once a year. Synthetic oil will reduce your maintenance costs if you follow the extended drain intervals. Even conventional oil is good for 6,000 miles these days so if you are not comfortable with changing the oil every 10-12K miles I am not sure if you would feel like you were getting a good value.

There are several synthetic blends on the market now which are all very good. If I were using one of those I would still consider an 8-10K mile change depending upon how quickly you put that many miles on your ride.

Nowadays lubrication related failures are pretty rare. Makes me wonder how somebody with a relatively new car can be blowing blue smoke.

[DBMaster]

Oh, yeah, your original question was about Amsoil. I actually used to be a dealer so I could get it at wholsale prices. This was back before you could buy synthetic ATF everywhere.

Amsoil is very good quality stuff, but I am not sure that it is worth twice as much as Mobil 1 or the other over the counter synthetics. Synthetic is already overkill for a passenger car engine so how good a synthetic does it have to be. It is far more important to go with a good filter if you are planning to keep the oil in for a long time.

Speaking of filters, when i was an Amsoil dealer I found out that the anti-drainback valves in the Amsoil filters were faulty. I would hear clattering upon initial startup. The Amsoil people admitted that they had had problems with this and replaced my filter at no charge, but it pretty much says volumes that they would not issue a widespread warning about such a problem. I have had good luck with the top end Purolator, Wix (NAPA), and Fram filters. Pretty much any filter that uses a fiber media (versus plain paper) is going to be pretty good.

Regardless, most of us are going to have some other type of failure long before anything related to oil goes wrong.

Later!

[1988starter]

I have been thinking about switching to synthetic. As for filter it is alaways fram or pureone.

[Jareds 89 LX-i]

Originally posted by 1988starter
I have been thinking about switching to synthetic. As for filter it is alaways fram or pureone.

You do know that Fram filters use faulty bypass valves (or anti-drainback valves, whatever the technical term is), don't you? They're always seems to be problems with those. I just stick with Genuine Honda filters. I figure you can't go wrong there

[valerit1]

It is my understanding even with synthetic oils, you
need to change filters at regular intervals (3000 miles or so).
The location of the filter in our cars pretty much negates
all the advantages - you need to get under the car to remove
the filter, and once you are there, it is easy to drain the oil as well...not much more work.. no extended drains, actually...
It you keep your filter for a year, it is most likely blocked
and oil runs through bypass - no filtering. Synthetics
still need to clean from dust and other stuff...


My 2 cents.

[AccordChemist]

ive always used fram filters and have never had a problem...are they that bad?

[hondaisthebest]

Last question guys.
Do you thinks i will have more problem with sythetic, because i have a small leak at the oil pan

ps: Between oil change i never need to put more oil.

[88WhiteLX-i]

I have tried almost every synthetic oil on the market, and I have found that my car runs best, I think, with Valvoline Syntec. I don't know what you guys do but I change my oil every 3000 miles regardless of anything else. Oil and the oil filter go, and I put in fresh stuff. It's a little pricey, like 30 bucks an oil change, but it's easy as hell to do. It's much better than going to the dealer to have an oil change... and FYI they use just regualar oil at the dealer it's no better than the cheapedt engine oil you can find at Wal mart.

[ACCORD EX]

Originally posted by mike89lxi
ive always used fram filters and have never had a problem...are they that bad?

genuine filters are the best


MIKE

['A20A3']

i run Amsoil 5w-30 and a K&N filter. doesnt burn anything.

btw. try running a S2000 oil filter if your motor is in good condition. i run one. K&N part # HP-1004. it ups the oil pressure and gives the car a different feeling in the powerband. probably because of better lubrication in the top end, and higher pressure in the lower end as well.

[lostforawhile]

don't use the genuine honda filters they are like fram inside, in Japan before the cars leave the factory, they get excellent filters, but if you try to order the jdm filter here,it's substituted for the north american market filter. best filtet to get right now is wix. or nappa gold, same thing. bosch used to be good, stp was the same thing, now that brand is made in china and is junk. as for oil i've heard the amsoil is good, but watch your oil,the epa is mandating the removal of zinc/phosphurus from the oil which our cars need to prevent cam lobe and rocker wear. DO NOT use an oil which has the starburst symbol on it,those oils contain almost none of the additive. I have a thread on here,look for important oil info. there are a number of oils listed which are still good.

[w261w261]

Somewhere on the web is a site where people cut up oil filters and dissect what they find. I had heard that Bosch had gone downhill, and I'm kind of leery on STP because of the company's history of deception. The past couple of changes, I've bought K+N filters. They seem like a performance-oriented company that caters to racers and technically good people, so I hope that they would offer a premium product. Certainly it seems substantial, with the nut welded on the end and a heavier case. Anyone ever opened one up and seen what's inside?

[carotman]

Holy thread resurrection!!!!

The K&N are good filters but a bit overpriced. At least you KNOW you have something good (That's what I use on my sedan)

I've been using AC/Delco filters on my other cars. They're cheap and actually good filters.

[lostforawhile]

Holy thread resurrection!!!!

The K&N are good filters but a bit overpriced. At least you KNOW you have something good (That's what I use on my sedan)

I've been using AC/Delco filters on my other cars. They're cheap and actually good filters.

the problem with K&N is by design they are race filters, they are designed to allow more flow,but allow larger particles to get through the filter. On a race engine this isn't as important because they are taken apart all the time. It's bad for a street engine though.

['A20A3']

the problem with K&N is by design they are race filters, they are designed to allow more flow,but allow larger particles to get through the filter. On a race engine this isn't as important because they are taken apart all the time. It's bad for a street engine though.

10 microns. most other filters i have researched allow 15 to sometimes even 22 microns. i'll stick with the K&N.